The new Ripper USF - Ultimate Shocker Frame (raw unanodized option)
Installed on my 04 Shocktech Shocker...
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various bits of helpful info from Ryan of Logic Paintball as it relates to my specific order:
Initial impressions upon first assembly:
- Yup, raw is raw. The tool marks aren't still there, that is what they look like right off the machine.
- The dark colored crud is oil and oxide left over from the deburring tumble. That should just wipe off with a paper towel.
- It can be anodized as is, but you're not going to get a gloss out of it. A kinda semigloss/flat finish is what you get.
- The return magnet has been relocated to up front above the trigger.
- If you don't have access to an industrial buffing machine, I suggest you start with 200 grit sand paper, then work your way down to 1200 grit. From there, just about any buffer will give you a shine.
- I will do my best to get a set of assembly instructions worked up over the coming weekend.
- Yes, the magnet pulls instead of pushing...
- The big diameter thin set screw goes in the threaded hole at the very end of the trigger slot, shiny side down. It works best to start it from below the slot and run it up into the hole until it is flush with the top of the frame. Now stick the magnet to the shiny side of that set screw. This screw/magnet assembly has now become your forward trigger stop. The trigger top will now bottom out against the under side of the magnet. Turn this screw clockwise to make the trigger go back towards the frame, turn it counter clockwise to make the trigger come away from the frame.
- Take the pretravel stop screw out of the top of your Shocker trigger (the one that hits the under side of the body), and throw it away (you don't have to, but you don't need it anymore). Now, replace it with one of the tiny diameter stubby set screws. If you have a New Designz trigger, use the #6-32 (the next to the smallest one), if you have any other trigger use the #4-48 (the very tiniest one). This set screw has now become your magnetic force adjuster. Turn it clockwise to increase the trigger pull force, turn it counterclockwise to reduce it...
- The pins all do the same things they did before, and should just drop right in...
- The dovetail clamp screw is the long setscrew that appears to have no purpose. Run it into the front bottom-line mounting hole (allen socket up). To lock down the ASA, just slide it onto the dovetail, and then turn the clamp screw clockwise until it tightens up. If you want to use a regular drop, duckbill, or rail, just remove the clamp screw, and use the included countersunk head screws like you normally would...
- As far as buffing goes, if you have access to an industrial buffer, it will put a good shine on it, in the condition it is in...
- If you don't have a buffer with at least a 1/2 hp motor, you will need to sand on it first, to take down the surface finish until the tiny buffer can handle it. Start with 200 grit, and work your way up to 1200 grit. After 1200 grit, just about any buffing machine will put a shine on it...
- In fact, good ano houses should be able to take the finish it has now, and return it to you with a nice hard gloss. That is how my ano guy does it, we don't ever polish them, they leave here looking like what you got, and come back shiny and ready to sell.
- This frame feels great!
- The trigger feels even better because of the new trigger return system (pull instead of push magnet) and enlarged trigger guard
- Love the integrated rail system... makes for a really low profile setup.
- By ordering raw, I will be able to sand, file, and make minor alterations before anodizing (i.e. increased rounding of chamfering) - BUT IT IS MORE WORK and MORE HASSLE. However, I like doing that kind of stuff. Also, a small amount of filing is required to debur some sharp edges and on the on/off plastic switch (tight fit).
I am very happy with my purchase so far...
Learn more about this frame here: