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Thread: The new Ripper USF - Ultimate Shocker Frame by Logic Paintball (CoolHand)

  1. #1
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    The new Ripper USF - Ultimate Shocker Frame by Logic Paintball (CoolHand)

    The new Ripper USF - Ultimate Shocker Frame (raw unanodized option)

    Installed on my 04 Shocktech Shocker...



















    Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

    various bits of helpful info from Ryan of Logic Paintball as it relates to my specific order:


    • Yup, raw is raw. The tool marks aren't still there, that is what they look like right off the machine.
    • The dark colored crud is oil and oxide left over from the deburring tumble. That should just wipe off with a paper towel.
    • It can be anodized as is, but you're not going to get a gloss out of it. A kinda semigloss/flat finish is what you get.
    • The return magnet has been relocated to up front above the trigger.
    • If you don't have access to an industrial buffing machine, I suggest you start with 200 grit sand paper, then work your way down to 1200 grit. From there, just about any buffer will give you a shine.
    • I will do my best to get a set of assembly instructions worked up over the coming weekend.
    • Yes, the magnet pulls instead of pushing...
    • The big diameter thin set screw goes in the threaded hole at the very end of the trigger slot, shiny side down. It works best to start it from below the slot and run it up into the hole until it is flush with the top of the frame. Now stick the magnet to the shiny side of that set screw. This screw/magnet assembly has now become your forward trigger stop. The trigger top will now bottom out against the under side of the magnet. Turn this screw clockwise to make the trigger go back towards the frame, turn it counter clockwise to make the trigger come away from the frame.
    • Take the pretravel stop screw out of the top of your Shocker trigger (the one that hits the under side of the body), and throw it away (you don't have to, but you don't need it anymore). Now, replace it with one of the tiny diameter stubby set screws. If you have a New Designz trigger, use the #6-32 (the next to the smallest one), if you have any other trigger use the #4-48 (the very tiniest one). This set screw has now become your magnetic force adjuster. Turn it clockwise to increase the trigger pull force, turn it counterclockwise to reduce it...
    • The pins all do the same things they did before, and should just drop right in...
    • The dovetail clamp screw is the long setscrew that appears to have no purpose. Run it into the front bottom-line mounting hole (allen socket up). To lock down the ASA, just slide it onto the dovetail, and then turn the clamp screw clockwise until it tightens up. If you want to use a regular drop, duckbill, or rail, just remove the clamp screw, and use the included countersunk head screws like you normally would...
    • As far as buffing goes, if you have access to an industrial buffer, it will put a good shine on it, in the condition it is in...
    • If you don't have a buffer with at least a 1/2 hp motor, you will need to sand on it first, to take down the surface finish until the tiny buffer can handle it. Start with 200 grit, and work your way up to 1200 grit. After 1200 grit, just about any buffing machine will put a shine on it...
    • In fact, good ano houses should be able to take the finish it has now, and return it to you with a nice hard gloss. That is how my ano guy does it, we don't ever polish them, they leave here looking like what you got, and come back shiny and ready to sell.

    Initial impressions upon first assembly:

    • This frame feels great!
    • The trigger feels even better because of the new trigger return system (pull instead of push magnet) and enlarged trigger guard
    • Love the integrated rail system... makes for a really low profile setup.
    • By ordering raw, I will be able to sand, file, and make minor alterations before anodizing (i.e. increased rounding of chamfering) - BUT IT IS MORE WORK and MORE HASSLE. However, I like doing that kind of stuff. Also, a small amount of filing is required to debur some sharp edges and on the on/off plastic switch (tight fit).


    I am very happy with my purchase so far...

    Learn more about this frame here:

    http://www.logicpaintball.com/cgi-bi...Code=RipperUSF
    http://www.shockerowners.com/showthread.php?t=11762


  2. #2
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    Looks nice.
    rigger guard is big...good for the "meat hook" finger types!!! (me)
    Love to see this when its done
    " Remember what the door mouse said..."


  3. #3
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    as i was gonna say. the mouth is huge. easy access if you know what i mean . but looks good. nice and clean

  4. #4
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    looks nice. what advatages do these have over stock shocker frames? (i do not shoot a shocker much, so i have no clue what logic upgraded)
    my feedback
    countdown on devilmag day........ill let you now

  5. #5
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    I love your choice in grips for the frame..
    "Great stories! See everyone, just buy a Sydarm and become a paintball superstar!! "
    AGD

    "i just sent out the full force of the canadian army (4 guys). expect high canadian casualties"
    Blackweenie

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomhitman

    ...what advatages do these have over stock shocker frames?
    • larger trigger guard (stock is too narrow)
    • EMAG style trigger return magnet position... located at the top of the frame, above the trigger ("pull" instead of "push")
    • integrated rail mount (lower profile... no need for extra rail or drop, just mount a dove tailed asa directly to the frame)
    • hybrid 90* and .45 style grip angle (feels really nice!)
    • accepts any .45 style grips (I have Hogue panel grips)



  7. #7
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    thanks jack and coke!!

  8. #8
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    how well does the stock on/off button work in it? it looks like not enough of it will stick out, the stock frame had an indention to help get at the button.
    You are the Wormtongue of AO.~bofh

  9. #9
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    It works perfect.

    The problem with the stock one (for me at least), is that it's too easy to activate. Sometimes the gun turns on (dynasty board has instant on), or the eyes turn off, just from holding the gun.

    Sor far, I like this one better.

  10. #10
    looks nice...

    i already sold my shocker, but if i didn't, would something like a pred II board fit in there?

  11. #11
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    I like it.


    "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." --Henry Louis Mencken.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack & Coke
    It works perfect.

    The problem with the stock one (for me at least), is that it's too easy to activate. Sometimes the gun turns on (dynasty board has instant on), or the eyes turn off, just from holding the gun.

    Sor far, I like this one better.
    I've got the exact opposite problem, it's too hard to turn on. Oh well if I find $125 extra cash laying around I'll probably get one.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Codekevin0403
    looks nice...

    i already sold my shocker, but if i didn't, would something like a pred II board fit in there?
    yes, a pred II will fit.

  14. #14
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    It looks like a nice improvement over the stock frame. If i had a shocker, i'd probably pick up either this or his 90* frame, both seem really comfortable

  15. #15
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Could you expect anything lesser from Ryan?
    Looks great on that Shocktech Shocker, J&C!
    Hope you're enjoying it !

  16. #16
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    Lookin' good man.

    I'm glad you like it.

    The trigger pull on these things is sick, is it not? I was very happy with the way that turned out (functionally).

    I just got the sample back from the new ano guy, so the batch will be going out in a day or two. When they buff it, the hard edges come off the chamfers, so that you don't feel them anymore (I knew this would happen, which is why I didn't worry too much about the feel of them raw).

    I will get pics of the ano'ed one up tomorrow or the next day.

    Enjoy it, you are only the second guy in the country with one, and the only guy on the west coast.

    That won't last long though, as it sets, this batch is nearly gone.
    Ryan Shanks
    Logic Paintball

  17. #17
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    Wow, awesome frame, love the angle of the frame. Shocktech shockers are also insanely sexy. Nice job Jack and Coke! You always take the best pics of your guns.

    www.TeamNever.com

  18. #18
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    the frame is nice and all... but it seems too ... tall not like, vertically, but where the frame attaches to the marker... it just doesnt seem to fit for some reason... but im glad you are happy with it



    Originally posted by Tom in reffrence to a post saying he acted like my dad...
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman007
    the frame is nice and all... but it seems too ... tall not like, vertically, but where the frame attaches to the marker... it just doesnt seem to fit for some reason... but im glad you are happy with it
    Have you ever seen a stock Shocker frame? They are all that tall, they have to be to clear the solenoid.

    Height wise, these new frames are 1/8" taller than stock, but with the dovetail built in, they end up being nearly 3/4" shorter overall (when you get the air system mounted).

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman007
    the frame is nice and all... but it seems too ... tall not like, vertically, but where the frame attaches to the marker... it just doesnt seem to fit for some reason... but im glad you are happy with it
    I know what you mean, but it looks about as tall as the stock frame (which I always thought looked tall)

    But yeah, looks like a huge improvment over stock. Nice work!


    UBLPB

    Azaam is my god.~Automaggot68
    Logic isn't allowed in this thread, go away.~LittlePaintballBoy

    [feedback][www.blackstarpaintball.com][the mag smith]

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman007

    ...the frame is nice and all... but it seems too ... tall

    not like, vertically, but where the frame attaches to the marker...

    nope.



    compared to a 90*



    with the use of the integrated rail, the whole setup is shorther than a stock frame+rail

  22. #22
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    *update*

    (note: all of this "finishing" work was done because I chose to order a "raw" frame. i wanted to learn how to do it myself. If you order a normal anodized frame, you don't have to do this stuff...)

    The other week I filed, sanded, and polished the raw frame. I plan on anodizing it together in the same batch as my shocktech shocker body.

    • I rounded all sharp corners and camfers with a precision file (miniture).
    • Next I used "fine" sandpaper, then 400, then 1000...
    • After sanding, I used a dremel with buffing wheel + Tripoli compound and Mother's mag and aluminum polish.
    • some parts of the frame are coming along very nicely. Rounded, smooth surfaces + mirror like reflection.
    • after I'm satisfied with the finish, I'll anodize the frame together with the rest of my shocktech shocker (all gloss black).


    here are a few progress pics...









    It is definately worth the extra $10 to have all this done for you by CoolHand... but I'm enjoying the experience of doing this on my own. It feels nice to take a tool marked piece of aluminum and buff out a near mirror like finish.

    Also, by ordering raw, I'm able to round and smooth out the hard sharp camfers on the the front and back of the frame to my preference.

    more pics...

    After polishing the new frame I sanded and polished the Shocktech body to match.

    I took out the original dust sparkly finish, and gave it a mirror shine. It should look good after I anodize it black (with a bri-dip finish).










  23. #23
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    Just back from anodizers...


    (before)


    (after)







    (sorry for the poor lighting, I was in a rush this morning)

    - I'm very happy with the results so far...

    - I'm still waiting for my reg and eye cover to be anodized to match...

    - More pics later...

    cheers,
    J&C

  24. #24
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    Question

    dammmmmmmmmmmmmmn thats nice..i want it(want an alias for it?)

  25. #25
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    Jack I hate you, I think I have to get a shocktech shocker+ripper USF now...got to start saving.

  26. #26
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    jack you got one of those snazzy shocktech grip frames with there trigger laying around your trying to get rid of now? PM me please...PLEASE
    aim-sok845

  27. #27
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    VERY nice! Who anodized that for you? That seemed like a quick turn-around compared to some of the horror stories I hear out of anodizing shops.

  28. #28
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    LOL I showed this thread to an old friend who has been out of PB for about 10 years and he said "WOW look at that... Is that a new Mag?" BTW, my friend shot a mag back in the day.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony3
    Jack I hate you, I think I have to get a shocktech shocker+ripper USF now...got to start saving.


    Quote Originally Posted by danoxide
    jack you got one of those snazzy shocktech grip frames with there trigger laying around your trying to get rid of now? PM me please...PLEASE
    No... sorry. The original frame on my Shocktech is the same as any other stock shocker. My Shocktech is like number 00019 or something... so it had the stock frame. They came out with the 'new' Shocktech frame only a month or two ago. I never sent it in for the *free life-time upgrade*. If I were more patient (...and smarter ), I should have done that. I have received many offers already! Oh well... too late now.

    Quote Originally Posted by NoForts4Me
    VERY nice! Who anodized that for you? That seemed like a quick turn-around compared to some of the horror stories I hear out of anodizing shops.

    Custom Metal Finishing Inc
    (310) 532-5075
    17804 S Western Ave
    Gardena, CA


    These guys are about 15 min. down the street from me (no shipping yay!)

    This job cost me $65 + $10 ($10 extra for "bri-dip" coating)

    They do stuff for Dye and others... while i was there I saw boxes of parts for a Cyborg for tri-fade work.

    Paintball is only part of their work... they do a very good job, but it's not their "specialty". They do a lot of aircraft parts, and custom bikes, misc accessories, etc. They used to do all that buffing and polishing stuff (finishing work), but not any more. They'll do deburring and some polishing (lots of vibration tubs). But, for the most part, it's best if you send it to them ready to be anodized.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil
    LOL I showed this thread to an old friend who has been out of PB for about 10 years and he said "WOW look at that... Is that a new Mag?" BTW, my friend shot a mag back in the day.
    I know the feeling! Every time I hold this gun and rip on it, I think to myself...

    "THIS is what my emag should have been!"
    super light, ultra-compact, nimble, solid, efficient, and super fast!

    I love the small/tiny size of the mag and this shocker.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by WARPED1
    Put that bad boy together!
    My ST reg and eye covers are being anodized (should be done by friday), so here's how the gun looks with one of my other regs (CP shorty) and without the eye cover.

    Also, the adjustment screw for the freedneck could not be anodized. I tried to separate the screw (steel) from the knob (aluminum), but couldn't... so that is why it is still silver. If they try to anodize it, the screw will disolve in the acid bath.













    I love this frame!


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