Oh yeah. I feel . Sorry.
Oh yeah. I feel . Sorry.
Last edited by mark_1791; 04-28-2005 at 01:20 AM.
Automag RT Pro
RT Valve w/ LvL 10
Custom Products Matrix barrel
CP small drop
Holy smokes. I thought these Pneu triggers would be a whole lot more complicated and jam packed in there. I can actually see through the frame.... didn't expect that.
I may hold off on the PTP trigger and just try this. Has anyone actually done it yet?
Excluding the Chimera, how much to the rest of the parts cost to get? I think the PTP frame is going to be around 200, frame and all. If I pay 130 for the Chimera, then a lot for the other parts, idk if this would be worth it. However this would bring boasting rights.
Today's Saturday, I bet he's at the field filming it now. Can't wait for the vid!
This is my first time to venture into the Workshop too. I think I'm going to come in here a bit more from now on!
Last edited by Boydster; 04-30-2005 at 02:24 PM.
price for this mod i estimate to be less than 250 and that includes the RPG Chimera frame and all the internals. if you already have a frame you wanna mod, then the price goes down dramatically to probably around 100 dollars. the way i think of it, invest the money into this project cuz #1 you'll have a pneumatic frame before any company makes one available to the public #2 price difference isn't all that drastic #3 you'll have a sense of pride that you were able to build/put together something with your own hands and #4 you'll have more sentimental attachment to it than you would a product you buy from a store oh and #5 your mag WILL rip
how fast are you getting to on this
you should definately make and sell theese as long as there is no legal problems
/Also has interestOriginally Posted by ghost068
embargo backwards = o grab me
"Guns dont kill people, husbands that come home early do." -Larry The Cable Guy
Dragun Drallion, nexus kit, tickler, e2, pysco 5" drop w/ on off, macroline, A+ bolt and back block, Oydessy 3 barrel kit, armson stealth, 15* ASA, Kapp pump arm, Black Magic, warp feed w/ 12v upgrade, halo b w/ vic&rip, 91/4500 bulldog
Tippmann 98C ebolt, lp kit, m-16 kit, palmer stabilizer
sorry, but im not gonna make or sell these.......give this mod a try, you'll be amazed of what you are capable of doing if you put your mind to itOriginally Posted by kayvon
Originally Posted by NoForts4Me
i've field tested this mod and everything went OK. effieceny seems to be MUCH better, but more testing is needed to confirm this.....im speculating that i can get about 800-900 shots off a 68ci 3000psi tank. i've gotta wait for my friend so i can make a video.....
to be honest thats still around what you would normally get so efficiency wise your still doing fairly well cuase thats about half a case off of a 68/45 easily, and thats not bad at all for a mag.Originally Posted by phishphen
btw im almost done with mine, just waiting on the lpr and ill be able to hopefully help post some videos and what not, btw im doing this on a Y-Frame from AGD
t33kyboy "So if a cat is dropped from 11 inches, it will most likely die."
i cant seem to download the guides.
Originally Posted by trevorjk
YES! my best friend! post detailed pics of the internals please, im doing it to y - grip also =D
I would like to do this mod but I cant find any places that sell microrocks in Canada. If anyone has an extra one let me know because it's the only thing I dont have. Also I was wondering whether you couldnt get full auto if you used an RT valve and tweeked your pressure just right. Has anyone noticed something like that happening to it.
I dont know if palmer ships to CAN but you can check. It's easiest to get it from him.
About the auto thing, I dont know much about it, but check the general paintball form at the top, there was a similar thread posted a little bit ago.
BTW: Phish, have you used your mag anymore lately? Still preforming well|?
Ghost068: i haven't used it since a couple of weekends ago, no money. but i plan on playin very soon.....i'll post more observations as they arise....
Do you guys think there is enough room in a 32 degrees frame for all of the pnuematics. Also, where can i find a dye frame?
Thanks Phish I ussed your guidence and made my own in a intella grip, I found that a drill press at high speed and a mill bit works wonders.
I used a long bit and drilled through the trigger guard and the frame when I was drilling the hole for the trigger return magnet on my e-mag. Should'nt be a problem if you use a drill press and a vise.
I like how you managed to cram a micro rock in a RPG frame, showing just how much room is in one of those things. But if you just mounted in on an elbow to one of the holes of the bottomline like I did, it's a lot easier and adds hardly any profile.
I have an extra chrome microrock with very scarred chrome finish, that would be fine for hiding in a trigger frame where you can't see it anyway.
I had a WGP STO front reg it is smaller in dia and dose the job. For the first stage I just mounted it on the drop forward and ran a line thru the holes in the bottom of the grip.
That's surprising, because I found the micro rock to be the only reg that could actually regulate worth a damn at 900+psi.
I micro rock is a great reg but I had the sto just laying around and it is a smaller in dia.
I did a field test today and everything junctioned great, I didn't natice any problems other than a more sensative trigger. The pin that actuates the 3 way is set low on the trigger, the leverage isn't good enough to walk it, but the main thing is that it fits into my playing style (rec ball).
By the way it is mounted on TAC-1, the drop forward is a 3" DOP.
I took my Palmers LPR off my mag and put it on my cocker. I used the stock 04 prostock LPR on my mag and it worked geat.
so for the money how worth it is this? i want to build one, but dont have much electronic experience, and i dont know wat parts i should buy, how many people have had success with this?
I have some success. I haven't got it to a point where I can walk the trigger like in the videos, but it has improved the trigger pull.
if i supplied money for parts, and labor, could someone do it for me? im really nervous about messing up
dont worry about messin it up, if you read this thread and my first thread, the way i modded my mags ensures that if you do mess up somehow, you can still go back to the original sear/pin (stock) setup. the only draw back is you will be out a few bucks and have a frame thats gots some scratches on it, but the functionality of it will NOT change. read up first. know how this mod works in its ENTIRTY.....after you do that, you will get a much better idea on what to do and what im talking about.......good luckOriginally Posted by RoamingStorm
Can you make a simple list right here, showing what parts I need exactly. Maybe links to the cheapest places to get it from too. I know you said to refer to your first thread, and I did that, but I still don't fully understand what I need to get to do this.
And what need I do differently if I did this to an Intelliframe?
Originally Posted by Boydster
the MAIN compents are:
1) 3-way valve which can be a CLIPPARD SMAV-3 or FABCO MSV-1 (i think its MSV-1 double check that)
2) actuator which is the CLIPPARD MPA-3
3) piston that goes inside the actuator, be creative and think of somthing or mimic my design or other AOers ideas posted in my 2 threads
thats basically it, the other stuff is various adapters and barbs and hoses and set screws.....use the 2 threads i started as a guide to give you ideas on how to build your OWN pneumag.....what you decide to do to the intelliframe is ENTIRELY up to you. i provided THE GUIDE in the first post of this thread to get people thinking and give them a bit of confidence to start this mod....you can mimic phishmag version 1.0 or version 2.0. better yet, you might want to combine things from version 1.0 and 2.0......its all up to you
as for finding cheap parts, try asking the fellow AO'ers if they got spare parts. you might have a hard time finding cheap parts from the companies...
one more thing that might help is to find out what each part looks like and study the pictures to determine where the specific part fits in relation to everything else....also know how the pneumag works....good luck