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Thread: Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

  1. #241
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    Now, on with some more pictures.

    The long awaited pics of the innards of the frame:


    Top of the frame: ------------------------------------------------------------------------Inside of Rail:


    Another shot inside the rail:


    Underside of the rail:


    Closeup showing the contour of the eye covers:


    Hollow inside the eye cover to clear the wiring:


    Side view of the eye covers:
    Ryan Shanks
    Logic Paintball

  2. #242
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    All I can say is WOW
    I am very impressed. You did an extravagant job on this and it looks amazing. Suspect nothing less from coolhand
    Good job

  3. #243
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    i can't wait to see this thing even Dryfire! **excited**

    btw, still, if I wanted to use a different LPR.. what options are out there and what PSI would I run?

  4. #244
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    Nice work as usual...

    What prompted you to go with a design like this, the lack of strong compact solenoids?

  5. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    i can't wait to see this thing even Dryfire! **excited**

    btw, still, if I wanted to use a different LPR.. what options are out there and what PSI would I run?
    Any Cocker LPR will work where that one is mounted (be that an SCM, or Jackhammer, or Sledgehammer, or MiniMaxFlo, or Sonic, or a Tickler, or a Rock, or a MicroRock, or an FGP, or whatever). OR, you can use T fitting to an inline into the VA, and then just a nipple out of one of the ports. OR, we could do a run of VA's to that will use a Timmy LPR (you can pretty much bet on that adding at least $100 to the price tag). OR, I can talk to Palmer's and have them do some special stabilizers that will reg out one port while still being gas thru (count on that adding $150-$175 to the price).

    Whatever you use, it will need to be set to 50-75 psi to run consistently.

    Quote Originally Posted by luke
    Nice work as usual...

    What prompted you to go with a design like this, the lack of strong compact solenoids?
    Yeah, the electro-mechanical solenoids are clunky, and require batteries so big that it's ridiculous (OR, get so few shots per battery that it's ridiculous). They also require the ULT, which when coupled with the LVL X takes the old reliable Mag, and turns it into a tuning nightmare on par with a cocker of the pre-threaded timing rod vintage.

    I wanted my old reliable LVL 7 Mag back, but I wanted it to be light, fast as hell and not chop paint. No one made this kind of Mag at the time, and that kinda pissed me off, so I went to it. This is what you get when I get grumpy and a few folks talk about spending money.

  6. #246
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    i have a question, say I threw a Palmer's Micro Rock on... how do I set the output for it? (i know, with an allen key... but how do i know what psi it's putting out on this setup?)

  7. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    i have a question, say I threw a Palmer's Micro Rock on... how do I set the output for it? (i know, with an allen key... but how do i know what psi it's putting out on this setup?)
    You'll have to build an adapter like I did, or buy a Rock-o-Meter from Palmer's.

    All you need is an 1/8" NPT port for a gauge, and a #10-32 port for the hose nipple.

    You can go to http://www.mcmaster.com and do a search for part # 51025K241

    That is a push to connect fitting for 1/8" OD hose which has a female 1/8" NPTF pipe connection on the other end.

    Buy that, and screw any low range gauge into it. I would suggest a 0-100 psi gauge, but a 0-300 psi would work too.

  8. #248
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    anyway I could just crank the PSI down, and start turning it up until performance is satisfactory?

  9. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    anyway I could just crank the PSI down, and start turning it up until performance is satisfactory?
    probably the same way you would do it with a cocker. give it a slight turn until it consistently then give it another 1/4 turn or so... then check for shootdown on high rof strings.

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  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkjunior303
    probably the same way you would do it with a cocker. give it a slight turn until it consistently then give it another 1/4 turn or so... then check for shootdown on high rof strings.
    Yup, that will work too.

  11. #251
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    WOW HOLY FREEKIN DANCING BANANNAS!!!!!


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  12. #252
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    = Doesnt cut it my friend
    We need these

  13. #253
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    quick question. Does the rail in the pictures come with the frame, or is that separate? If so, how much? If not i am excited.

  14. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimc
    quick question. Does the rail in the pictures come with the frame, or is that separate? If so, how much? If not i am excited.
    The rail will come with the whole marker (the $950 option ), or if you have me do the eye install on your marker (a $125 add on), I will machine your rail to look like that.

    The $450 bolt-on frame doesn't come with a rail at all. I guess I could do up a package price for the frame, rail, and eye covers, and then you just dril the holes in the body (though I doubt it will be much cheaper).

  15. #255
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    Bah, maybe I'll just give up my uber light Alpha rail and buy an RTP for you to mill and add covers to. So I'd basically send my gun in with a RT style rail and you'd drill the body and mill the rail and add covers to it for $125. Could it be an Emag rail too? Or would it cost extra to mill the foregrip adjustable slot? One last question... could the eye covers work on a Delta milled RT/Emag rail?

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  16. #256
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    looking very good, and coming along nicely

    :starts counting pennies:

  17. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbeak2099
    Bah, maybe I'll just give up my uber light Alpha rail and buy an RTP for you to mill and add covers to. So I'd basically send my gun in with a RT style rail and you'd drill the body and mill the rail and add covers to it for $125. Could it be an Emag rail too? Or would it cost extra to mill the foregrip adjustable slot? One last question... could the eye covers work on a Delta milled RT/Emag rail?
    An Emag rail will be fine. I machine the foregrip slot when I ULE the inside of the rail. Its all in the same program on the CNC. The outside shape, the inside ULE cuts, the contours for the eye wires, and the foregrip slot are all cut at once. Then it gets refixtured to cut the back off, and dril the eye cover mounting holes.

    They won't fit the Deltas either. They need a flat spot about 0.5" wide and the full height of the rail, right under the detent to mount the covers, and all of my aftermarket rails have been narrow there to shave weight and give them cool lines. In this case though, I had to give up the swoopy in favor of the practical.

    I think the eye covers look at least two orders of magnitude (that would be 100 times) better than EBlade eyes, and about five orders of magnitude better than the goop. Plus, they are removable, can be anodized to match the rail and body, and they are hell for stout (because they are metal and mount with a fairly large screw).

  18. #258
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    Hey:

    CoolHand- Just curious but are there anymore left available? Or are you closed up on the pre-order and the batch is good to role? Let me know, I understand batches and if they are done, no worries, but if you are still taking orders....Let me know.

    I'd appreciate it.

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  19. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClassicMagger
    Hey:

    CoolHand- Just curious but are there anymore left available? Or are you closed up on the pre-order and the batch is good to role? Let me know, I understand batches and if they are done, no worries, but if you are still taking orders....Let me know.

    I'd appreciate it.

    -ClassicMagger
    There are plenty of places left. Like 15 of the first 25 in fact.

    Anyway, since the turn out has been low, I've decided just to do them as they come. If you order one before the boards come in, it will go out with everyone else's. If you miss that date (likely still a month off or more), yours will ship when its done at ano and I get it assembled.

    Basically, all the parts are setting here, save the boards, just waiting to be ordered, anodized, and assembled. Provided, of course, that the boards get done when they are supposed to be. I'm not holding my breath.

    If you just want a frame, you can order it here:

    Clicky Here!

    If you want me to do the eye install too, or you want to order a whole marker, or anything else, just PM or mail me and I will get you an invoice.

    Anyhoo, that's the skinny.

    Have a good one.

  20. #260
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    any reason why TAG is lickin it? 50 boards shouldn't be a hassle. If it was like 1,000 that's a different story.

  21. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    any reason why TAG is lickin it? 50 boards shouldn't be a hassle. If it was like 1,000 that's a different story.
    They are at the mercy of their supplier, whom, I would guess, is very busy.

    The fact that they only did 100 of them may be the reason they are taking so long. With those big board houses, it takes just as long to set up for a run of 10,000 as it does for a run of 100. So, they tend to put the less profitable stuff off until a slow spot shows up.

    Its not TAG's fault, except for being a little guy, there is nothing they did wrong.

  22. #262
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    makes sense.

    any chance of gettin some logic stickers in the package?

  23. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    . . . . . any chance of gettin some logic stickers in the package?
    Sure, if I had any.

    Its kinda high speed, low drag around here, if you catch my meaning.

    I don't really see the point in spending thousands of dollars on mugs and stickers and whatnot, when I could spend that money on machine tools and product instead.

  24. #264
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    question, is the grip frame still going to be drilled in addiation to the presence of the integrated rail for those of us who want to use a drop of sorts?

  25. #265
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    question, is the grip frame still going to be drilled in addiation to the presence of the integrated rail for those of us who want to use a drop of sorts?
    Yes.

  26. #266
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    ^ I don't know whether to take that as truth or not. No offense but lately your posts have been kind of silly.

  27. #267
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    ^ I don't know whether to take that as truth or not. No offense but lately your posts have been kind of silly.
    None Taken.
    Take my word for it.
    Seriously.
    I know more about this frame than ALOT of the people on this board, excluding Ryan.

  28. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    question, is the grip frame still going to be drilled in addiation to the presence of the integrated rail for those of us who want to use a drop of sorts?
    Yep, Derek is right.

    There are six (6) holes in the bottom of the frame tapped #10-32 for drop forwards, unimounts, rails, etc. You can use any type of bottom line you like with these frames.

    If you look at the pics of the insides of the frame, you will notice two things:

    1) There is an SRail bolted to the bottom, proving that there is at least one set of holes there.

    2) Just aft of the aforementioned SRail you can see half of another hole, which should lead you to believe that there is more than one set of holes.

  29. #269
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    Ryan, why do you kick so much hiney? My poor mag is sitting here thinking it's complete... little does it know that an electric frame is coming. I want to tell it... but it'll just get impatient and chuff all over the place.

  30. #270
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    Yep, Derek is right.

    When it comes to my BST reputation, or Ryan's, I'm always serious.
    I would never tarnish his name on my time.

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