so how about that video?
so how about that video?
If you can pull the pin out of the top of it, the parts you need to convert it will come with your frame. If you need a whole one, you will need to call AGD, or visit their online store. You don't need to twist the two halves apart on the RTP on/off to convert it, as that oring in there needs to stay anyway.Originally Posted by RTspag
PSI - The vid we took to do the sound graph was done with a Sony digital still camera, meaning you can't really tell what's going on (plus it was like 10pm and dark outside). The audio was all we were after. I've got a good digital video camera that I will be using in the next day or two to take a well lit video of it dry firing. Just hang in there.
OH SNAPOriginally Posted by CoolHand
i wanna see that in semi
Is there no pleasing you!?Originally Posted by MadPSIence
Schweet! You had more of an accent than I anticipated. I trying to get a job just so I can buy this.
Hey, look at that! It's Santa!
Why? If the marker will cycle that fast with ramping on, it will go that fast in semi (provided that your fingers are that fast).Originally Posted by MadPSIence
I can't do that in semi, and that vid was to showcase the speed of the marker, not the speed of my fingers (which are much slower than that).
When I get my bud Eric down here with his spastic fingers, then I'll shoot a vid in semi.
If I'd have done it myself just now, you'd have been "Meh, that was slow and kinda sucked."
I will get a vid with paint up as soon as I get the new body drilled for eyes.
Yes, the thick accent is here to stay I fear.Originally Posted by WenULiVeUdiE
Though, I warn you, deduct IQ points at your own peril.
I went to Alabama a couple of years ago, and folks made fun of my accent. That was a new low for me.
Originally Posted by CoolHand
BTW, Get on AIm, or PM me, i need to talk to you about some other things, bro.
For some dumb reason the audio works, but not the video. Oh well, it sounded fast as balls. Can't wait to get one. Keep up the good work Ry.
Dust Green X-Mag #315
ULE body w/ dual Kila V2 detents, X valve w/ LX, Y-grip w/ Dye grips, ULT, Omega rail, Stainless Steel Freak Kit.
My Feedback- http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=165428
If you're using quicktime you're going to need to get some plugins for it, ro downlaod VLC.Originally Posted by Skywalker
You need to DL the newest Divx codec. Try www.divx.comOriginally Posted by Skywalker
It is encoded using the 5.2.1 codec.
Last edited by CoolHand; 09-27-2005 at 01:33 AM.
If you mooks don't start buying this frame, Ryan is going to have to sell me to slave traders.
No kidding.Originally Posted by Automaggot68
Something tells me that we need a PB Talk thread.
On it.Originally Posted by CoolHand
Damn are you highly efficient.
You got that one up and got three replies before I could make one of my own.
Lets talk triggers here.
what kinda of triggers can that frame accept?
A shocker triger maybe? will it accept bearing triggers? Can the trigger be made to a spring return?
sorry if that has already been adressed.
...ever in the continual search of time dilation.
Emag 4.0 "I love the way you turn me on"
If you read the first post of this thread, it tells you.Originally Posted by Carbon
It already has a bearing trigger in it.
It takes UMF triggers (IE the trigger that I designed for it). That's it. No other triggers fit.
When it came right down to it, no other marker's trigger fit and performed like I wanted it to, so I did my own. It is way lighter than a shocker trigger (which = less inertial bounce), and feels very good.
There is no option to change it to spring return, but why on earth would you want to anyway?
Return weight is 100% adjustable as it stands now (with a spring you are very limited in adjustablity). Right now you can go from totally slack, to exceedingly strong in about three twists of an allen key. There is a fine and coarse adjustment, so you can really dial in the resistance you want. Plus its very smooth. There isn't that hard snap over like the EBlade frames have.
are these tears of joy in my eyes?
I've found my frame. I was thinking of going all mechanical but there are some things a mechanical frame, even with ULT, just can't do. Are you working at all with the man of tuna himself? I am planning on ordering a mag from him, very excited to be getting into paintball seriously for the first time since middle school. Basically I don't really have much experience at all in tinkering with markers...how easy would it be for me, the master newbie to install this if I order it after I get my mag from tunaman? I'm not clueless, I can use tools but I just haven't ever like taken a gun completely apart before. I figure I can stand to work a bit longer to purchase the end-all to frames. Also, am I going to be installing any other parts required to run this trigger?
Thanks, loving it. AO rocks.
To install it on a mechanical RTP, you'll just need to remove the old frame, take the sear rod and clevis off the old sear, and pop the On/Off assembly out of the valve to replace the pin and top orings with the ones I'll be sending along.Originally Posted by AKBAR
It will come preprogrammed for dwell and such, you shouldn't need to tinker with that at all.
Just bolt on the VA, plumb the air to it, bolt on the frame, hook up the LP hose to the LPR, and go.
If you don't think you can swing it, I'll do it for you, no charge.
You should not need to buy anything extra to make this frame work. If you need it, its included with the kit.
Sounds excellente. I haven't read through the entire topic but I'm basically understanding that once pre-ordered it'll be about 6-8 weeks, probably longer befoer the trigger arrives, correct? It's a wait but for the product, it sure seems worth it. And I figure I should be able to find a marker expert around to help me out.
Yes, right now it is looking like at least six weeks before the preorders ship. BUT, if ano takes longer than it should (like it seems to do on every project I do ), or if TAG hits a snag with the boards, or if there is a sudden shortage of every cocker LPR known to PB kind, then it could be longer.
You know how Murphy is, if I say six for sure, then it will be ten. If I say I don't know, at least I won't be wrong. I will do my best to rush things whenever I can, but I've got about as much pull as a rotten head of cabbage, so don't hold your breath for any miracles.
Laser Engraving Template Time!
Right click and save target as:
Arrggg! Here be that thar template. Yarrrrrr!
Its a PDF with a scale at the top so you can do a quick check to make sure your printer didn't scale it.
You can print it out, draw on it, and scan it to send back in, OR you can export the contents of the PDF as a JPG (its just a command in acrobat), and use Photoshop or Illustrator to whip up what you want.
Either way, send me back a JPG, PSD, or AI file that I can send along to the laser engraver when the time is right.
This is also a good time to confirm what color you want things to be. You can choose the color of:
And if you get the eye's installed by me:
The LPR is gonna be black if you get it from me, unless you do some real sweet talking, and my wholesaler has your color of choice in stock.
No chrome, no nickel plate, and no gold/silver plating. Anodized colors only.
Info to send along with your completed engraving layout:
Name (that you ordered by, not your forum handle)
Remember that the laser engraving is only going to look white/light gray, so you aren't going to want to make your base color silver or gray (unless you don't want the engraving to show).
That is all.
Go crazy guys.
laser engraving anywhere? or in the red? /have to change color from seksy silver to something else now lol
Right, I knew I forgot something.Originally Posted by RTspag
Yes, engraving in the red areas only, and only on the side shown (there's stuff in the way on the other side).
Sorry I missed that, it was kind of important.
[QUOTE=CoolHand]No chrome, no nickel plate, and no gold/silver plating. Anodized colors only.
That'st not what I want to hear. Hopefully we can work out something.
[QUOTE=Skywalker]Well, Gloss Silver ano is pretty close to nickel plate color wise. Its more of a whitish color, where nickel is kinda yellowy. It won't be as hard of a shine, but it gets pretty close.Originally Posted by CoolHand
I don't have plater that I work with, and Jay's man is unreliable at best (though I hear he is very good at what he does).
I can talk to Palmers, but since they want upwards of $450 to do a marker, I'd bet that you're looking at near a hundred to do a frame alone.
Sorry bud, there are just some things I can't do.