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Thread: Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

  1. #361
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    i'm hard at work on my engravings, i actually passed the template out to friends to do graphics for me hahaha.... i'm so lazy. (typing 9 page english paper DUE IN 8 HOURS! ... so i doubt i'll get any sleep. hmmm - so what colors would look good with a gloss black body and a polished rail - besides black... i don't want friggin black.

  2. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    No chrome, no nickel plate, and no gold/silver plating. Anodized colors only.


    http://www.paintballmontreal.com/php...g_0192_611.jpg

    I hope that silver ano is close to chrome...

    I'll send you info soon.

  3. #363
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    soooooo my question is...from an economical view of things....do i HAVE to go with eyes since there's a lvl X in there already? i mean eyes are nice and everything but...paying for college and car payments and paying for rent on a decent pay ..its hard life but i want to play and play fast


    Oh you got an anti chop bolt? Put your toungue in there and prove it to me.


    feeeeeeeeeeeeeeeddback

  4. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by eNder159
    soooooo my question is...from an economical view of things....do i HAVE to go with eyes since there's a lvl X in there already? i mean eyes are nice and everything but...paying for college and car payments and paying for rent on a decent pay ..its hard life but i want to play and play fast
    That's your call. The LVL X won't hurt anything, and if you tune it right, it won't chop either.

    BUT, you have to tune it. That's the only down side. The eyes don't need to be tuned, they just are.

    If you've already got the LVL X and you're decent at tuning it, you can save yourself some dough. You can always have the eyes done later if you find that its not good enough.
    Ryan Shanks
    Logic Paintball

  5. #365
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    It's probably been mentioned in some part of the topic but what rates of fire can we expect to hit, with ramping and without? Also, for a new mag buyer, is there an advantage to, say, buying a mag and then your frame rather than just buying an e-mag?

  6. #366
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by AKBAR
    It's probably been mentioned in some part of the topic but what rates of fire can we expect to hit, with ramping and without? Also, for a new mag buyer, is there an advantage to, say, buying a mag and then your frame rather than just buying an e-mag?
    The Emag requires the use of that large battery on the front.
    This frame takes a single Nine volt battery.
    Even the most ULE'd E-mags will not be as light as this mag.

    As Far as I know...

    True Semi - Legal in NPPL and all fields and events
    Auto Responce - A shot on the pull and release of the trigger
    Full Auto - Hold the trigger back and the gun keeps firing
    Smooth Ramping - Slowly lowers the debounce
    Assisted Ramping - Gently adds shots as ROF increases
    Fast Ramping - Immediately adds shots
    Hyper Ramping - Ramps as long as trigger is being moved
    PSP/CFOA Preset 1 - 3 shots then ramps to MROF
    PSP/CFOA Preset 2 - 3 shots then super fast ramping
    PSP/CFOA Preset 3 - 3 shots then fires 3 shots per pull regardless of the speed you pull the trigger
    NXL (old style) - 3 shots them full auto if you hold the trigger back
    Break Out - 1st shot full auto then fast ramping on the second shot
    OMFG - 3 shots then it gets crazy

  7. #367
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    That video I posted was at 18 bps (which I confirmed with a sound graph). That's about as fast as would go with the settings and the parts I had in it. Just an FYI, I sound graphed the DMag video that everyone went nuts about as well . . . . . . . it comes in at ~13 bps (its between 12.5 and 13, but varies a good bit since that was in semi auto).

    I did some measuring and found that the oring crush in the actuator assembly was a little tighter than I would have liked, so I swapped out the orings for XRings, which reduced the tension by about 30%. I will be testing this setup in a few days, to see if I can eek any more speed out of it (its all in pieces right now, I just need to get the body drilled for eyes before I put the marker back together).

    In semi-auto I will guarantee that you will not outrun the frame. In any of the uncapped ramps I will say you should see ROF in the 18-20 bps range (if you can feed it that fast).

    This has several advantages over a stock EMag:

    1) Its lighter by a good bit. I will have a weight in a few days (got to put it back together to weigh it).
    2) Flexibility. You can use this marker anywhere, under any set of rules, and it will be legal.
    3) Its better looking to be sure (lol That's totally subjective, but its my list so it goes in there.).
    4) No battery pack.
    5) You can use any gas thru or reg as a foregrip.
    6) They cost about the same if you buy a whole marker from me, or a new EMag from AGD.
    7) You get to choose your colors from me, from AGD you take what they have in stock (as far as the lowers go. I'm just as limited as AGD when it comes to the valve and body colors).
    8) No more HES, nuff said.

    BUT, you also have one disadvantage:

    1) No more manual override.

    Now, I never used manual mode when I had an EMag, but some folks do. I didn't like it, and thought it made the EMag unnecessarily complex, but other folks loved it to death. Either way, it simply couldn't be incorporated into this design.

  8. #368
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    No more HES, nuff said.
    BURN.

  9. #369
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    so if i have a complete ULE mag (ule body, gas through grip,intelliframe,xvalve,ULT,MM rail) what do i have to do to buy the bolt on frame? i know that my MM rail has to be modded but there were't any specifics mentioned on WHAT has to be done...(im coming from a noob to machining things kinda perspective)

    and my second question to the AO nation is do you think the lvlx can work as hard as eyes if properly tuned (basically can it sustain 15bps without breaking bawlsz) didnt zak vetter go 20+bps with a lvlx with no breaks?

  10. #370
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by eNder159
    so if i have a complete ULE mag (ule body, gas through grip,intelliframe,xvalve,ULT,MM rail) what do i have to do to buy the bolt on frame? i know that my MM rail has to be modded but there were't any specifics mentioned on WHAT has to be done...(im coming from a noob to machining things kinda perspective)
    To mount it on a MM rail is easy, its the forgrip/lpr that makes the problem.
    You need to find a palce to put the LPR, so the air gets routed into the frame.
    Also, you wont be able to mount a forgrip, or vert ASA on the rail because of the size of the trigger guard.
    I ran into this problem with my Dallara, seeing as it's on a MM/AM rail.
    Ryan is remedying it for me
    You could slap a T fitting on a double tapped ASA, and put the LPR there, and run the line into the frame from there, but you'd still lack a forgrip.

    If you're serious about buying, let Ryan know what you plan on doing, and send your marker to him.
    He can do it for you, and his prices aren't unreasonable at all.

  11. #371
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    ok thanks automaggot for clearing that up...so what if i got the longer RTP rail ill be ok as far as "bolting on" the frame?

  12. #372
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by eNder159
    ok thanks automaggot for clearing that up...so what if i got the longer RTP rail ill be ok as far as "bolting on" the frame?
    No worries.
    Yes, If i were you i'd get an RT PRO rail for it.
    Easier in the long run.

  13. #373
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    [QUOTE=CoolHand]
    Quote Originally Posted by Skywalker

    Well, Gloss Silver ano is pretty close to nickel plate color wise. Its more of a whitish color, where nickel is kinda yellowy. It won't be as hard of a shine, but it gets pretty close.

    I don't have plater that I work with, and Jay's man is unreliable at best (though I hear he is very good at what he does).

    I can talk to Palmers, but since they want upwards of $450 to do a marker, I'd bet that you're looking at near a hundred to do a frame alone.

    Sorry bud, there are just some things I can't do.

    I'm not trying to be difficult, but I definately don't want gloss silver. If you could, when you have some extra time, see if you can find a reliable guy to do chrome plating. I will look in to it as well, but you being a dealer you could probably get a better price. I'd rather have chrome over nickel b/c I like the blueish tint it has and plus it doesn't tarnish as easily as nickel.

    Also, is it possible to annodize the LPR or should I just find one that is chrome and send it in with my gun?

    One last thing, did you ever talk to the guy that was interested in my X-Mag? If I don't get that thing sold than no UMF for me.
    Dust Green X-Mag #315

    ULE body w/ dual Kila V2 detents, X valve w/ LX, Y-grip w/ Dye grips, ULT, Omega rail, Stainless Steel Freak Kit.

    My Feedback- http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=165428

  14. #374
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    If you can find a good chrome plater then you would have two frames.

  15. #375
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    Alright, I'll look for a chromer, but I make no promises. (I've been on this hunt for years now, and still no luck. Good platers are harder to find that good anodizers)

    No word back from the guy, he was interested in the black to pink one (whoever's that was). Last I heard from him he was gathering his funds.

    He's blinked many many times since then, so there is a distinct possibility that he's totally forgotten about it, or changed his mind and bought six Ions. You just never know.

  16. #376
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    LOL
    a good metal finisher?
    LOL
    i think they are in the phone book between unicorns and santa claus
    Aka tech
    Chuff
    Chuff

  17. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko
    LOL
    a good metal finisher?
    LOL
    i think they are in the phone book between unicorns and santa claus
    Exactly.

    If it weren't for bad anodizers, I'd never have anodizers at all.

    I can understand it though, when I first started, I had a couple of guys and we did our ano in house. Man, talk about a black art. I have never cursed so much in my entire life.

    Personally, I'd rather try to transmute lead into gold.

  18. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko
    LOL
    a good metal finisher?
    LOL
    i think they are in the phone book between unicorns and santa claus
    LOOOOOOOOOL

    Now, if I only knew what HES stood for and why e-mags had that problem.

    Anywho, I was pretty much sold in the beggining. Everything else is icing on the cake. That said, just a last few questions, there was some discussion about fitting an ASA/foregrip...are you saying that a modern RT PRO rail should give the length necessary to place the frame and grip on? What if the ASA is a 15 degree type? And lastly, what do people typically do to protect their electros from rain and such, or is it a minor concern?

    Thanks, hope to be ordering soon.
    Last edited by AKBAR; 09-29-2005 at 12:10 AM.

  19. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBAR
    LOOOOOOOOOL

    Now, if I only knew what HES stood for and why e-mags had that problem.

    Anywho, I was pretty much sold in the beggining. Everything else is icing on the cake. That said, just a last few questions, there was some discussion about fitting an ASA/foregrip...are you saying that a modern RT PRO rail should give the length necessary to place the frame and grip on? What if the ASA is a 15 degree type? And lastly, what do people typically do to protect their electros from rain and such, or is it a minor concern?

    Thanks, hope to be ordering soon.
    The kit comes with a VA that is already tapped to take the LPR. If you have an RTP rail, you are good to go, the kit will just bolt on and work.

    If you want to use a 15 deg, you will need to send it in and let me make another hole in it to mount the LPR from.

    Rain should not be a problem. I have yet to see a single electro go down from rain. I've seen several go under in a big puddle and just keep right on truckin'. You don't have anything to worry about.

    BTW, HES stands for Hall Effect Sensor. Hall Effect Sensors detect magnetic fields. The EMag uses a HES and a magnet to trigger the fire cycle instead of a microswitch like most other electros. This gives a unique trigger pull that not everyone likes, it also produces a situation where the marker can bounce and/or give more than one shot per pull due to the sensitivity of the HES and the size of the magnet used. Its a very twitchy system, which is overly complex for the job (which in turn causes many tuning and performance problems that you do no get with microswitches). Its just a little over engineered.

  20. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    No word back from the guy, he was interested in the black to pink one (whoever's that was). Last I heard from him he was gathering his funds.
    [cough]It's not pink, it's claret... [/cough]

    Sorry for the thread jack, please resume your normally scheduled programming of Mag goodness.

    My Feedback
    (It's a work in progress)

  21. #381
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    grip thread size question.

    does it use 8-32 and 1/4" like dm4/5s? just noticed they weren't a rounded cap head in the pic and thought it may be different

  22. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoad
    grip thread size question.

    does it use 8-32 and 1/4" like dm4/5s? just noticed they weren't a rounded cap head in the pic and thought it may be different
    Nope, #6-32 countersunk head cap screws.

  23. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    Alright, I'll look for a chromer, but I make no promises. (I've been on this hunt for years now, and still no luck. Good platers are harder to find that good anodizers)


    Yeah for the same reason there arent any new refineries in the US in 30 years. Thank you EPA.
    There was a really good chrome guy in Newark NJ that we used to send custom car and bike parts to. They did great work. I went looking for them about a year ago only to find out they closed. I havent had any luck finding a new guy either.

    "I'm not happy unless you're not happy"

  24. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil
    Yeah for the same reason there arent any new refineries in the US in 30 years. Thank you EPA.
    There was a really good chrome guy in Newark NJ that we used to send custom car and bike parts to. They did great work. I went looking for them about a year ago only to find out they closed. I havent had any luck finding a new guy either.

    Big, let me dig around for some contact info.
    Just had a set of headlamps and a radiator shroud done. Turned out great
    I think the guy is outside of Camden though

  25. #385
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    Even a point in the general direction would be appreciated.

    Chrome is very popular, but I fear that two or three parts at a time it will be hellaciously expensive.

  26. #386
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    If you can't find any plater then there would be another option instead (re-anodize the body another color after you installed the eyes).

  27. #387
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    check with people that restore cars. they have to have a connection.

  28. #388
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    is there going to be a SN on the frames?

  29. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadPSIence
    is there going to be a SN on the frames?
    I hadn't planned on it.

    Serial Numbers are a PITA, as each frame has to be treated differently, and either laser engraved separately, or the SN needs to be machined into the frame. Newer machining centers can automatically generate the SN's, but alas, mine is far too old for that, and I did not have them added when the frames were manufactured, so we're pretty much SOL.

    Its not like there will be so many that I won't be able to keep track of them. Plus, since my stuff is warrantied for a life time, there is no need to keep track of when it was sold, as its always under warranty.

  30. #390
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    I hadn't planned on it.

    Serial Numbers are a PITA, as each frame has to be treated differently, and either laser engraved separately, or the SN needs to be machined into the frame. Newer machining centers can automatically generate the SN's, but alas, mine is far too old for that, and I did not have them added when the frames were manufactured, so we're pretty much SOL.

    Its not like there will be so many that I won't be able to keep track of them. Plus, since my stuff is warrantied for a life time, there is no need to keep track of when it was sold, as its always under warranty.
    Besides.
    The first frame is mine anyway.

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