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Thread: Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

  1. #1
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    Logic Ultimate Mag Frame - The Electro Mag Solution - PreOrder

    OK guys, I've got my quotes done, and I have a price ready to go.

    Drum roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $450 complete

    Already got an LPR? Then its $425

    Click Here to get one PreOrdered!

    UPDATE (9-26-05):

    Here's a dry firing video. I'll do a vid with paint as soon as I get the body cut for eyes.

    Right click the link below and select "save target as".

    Vidage!

    UPDATE AGAIN (10-10-05)

    OK folks, drum roll please . . . . . .

    Right Click the link and choose "Save Target As".

    Short Video with Paint

    It sound graphed out at just a fuzz over 20bps. That's a stock HALO-B too, so I'm going to guess that its just not going to go faster than that (already using fresh batteries).

    I'll see what I can do with the Cheetah HALO I've got kicking around here though.

    One thing I did notice, is that you basically can't dry fire this thing. If you set the board timing to let you dry fire, its unnecessarily slow with the eyes on (since you also have a BIP delay when the eyes are on). If you set to to be fast with the eyes on (like in the video), it will chuff and short-stroke like a madman when you try to use it with them off, since the BIP delay is ignored when the eyes are off.

    But, that's OK, you just have to shoot paint to show off.

    It is fast as hell, I will say that.


    Specs:

    Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
    Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install)
    Roller Bearing Trigger
    Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
    Magnetic trigger return
    DM5 Grips
    Huge trigger guard
    Integrated Dovetail Rail
    Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
    Complete kit comes with Jackhammer LPR (black)
    Does not use the ULT (you need to use a stock RTP on/off)
    Uses one 9V battery
    Mounting hardware and allen keys included

    Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail (like most of what Rogue sells).
    Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug.

    Will not work with twist lock bodies.

    It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).

    Finished Design:



    First 15 preorders get to choose a custom color (for the frame, trigger, and VA) at no extra charge, and laser engraving of their choice on one side (I'll post up a template of the area so you can go to town), also at no extra charge.

    Its going to be at least six to eight weeks to have finished products, likely longer if everythinhg doesn't go just right.

    Everyone has to realize that this is going to be a long term deal. If you cannot wait for three or four months for your parts, do not sign up. I've said it here, and I will post it again on the site for the preorders.

    I want everyone to know two things:

    1) This is going to take a while. Probably longer than any of us think right now.
    2) There will be no refunds for the preorders. This is going to be a high dollar project, one which I cannot float out of pocket for the time that this is going to take. You have to know this going in. Your money will be gone into the parts right after you place the order, so it cannot come back easily. For that reason, there will be no refunds on the preorder.


    Click Here to get one PreOrdered!

    I know the price is higher than I wanted it to be, but by doing them in such small runs, the price is a bit higher than it would have been.

    EDIT (8-15-05): The first 25 frames are done being machined. The internal parts are due to be done this week. All I am waiting on are boards from TAG, and orders from you guys. They can't be anodized until they are ordered, so . . . . . . . . . . go get 'em ordered!

    New Pics, of actual metal this time:

    Driver Side:



    Lower Angle to show the Countersunk Rear Frame Screw:



    Passenger Side:



    Update (9-26-05):

    Driver's Side Full View


    Passenger's Side Full View


    Driver's Side Close View


    Passenger's Side Close View (please disregard the ghetto-fabulous on/off switch, that obviously won't be there when my little PCB's are done)
    Last edited by CoolHand; 10-09-2005 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Added Progress Update & Pictures

  2. #2
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    For what you are offering here, this is a good price! Let us know how much this set up weighs when you get a chance. Thanks

  3. #3
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Got The First One, Suckers.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-Tach-One
    For what you are offering here, this is a good price! Let us know how much this set up weighs when you get a chance. Thanks
    Looks like between 7 & 9 ozs fully loaded for the frame.

    More if you add in the VA and LPR.

    That big ol' frame is actually a whole ounce lighter than the vert frames bare.

    Now THAT is ULE.

    It won't be real heavy, but since its got a 'noid and 9v in there, its going to be heavier than a mech mag.

    I won't have a for sure weight of the whole kit until I get one put together.

  5. #5
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    so why is the ult bad?

    i mean, how can you use a powerful noid and 9v?= whats the battery life?
    embargo backwards = o grab me

    "Guns dont kill people, husbands that come home early do." -Larry The Cable Guy

    Dragun Drallion, nexus kit, tickler, e2, pysco 5" drop w/ on off, macroline, A+ bolt and back block, Oydessy 3 barrel kit, armson stealth, 15* ASA, Kapp pump arm, Black Magic, warp feed w/ 12v upgrade, halo b w/ vic&rip, 91/4500 bulldog

    Tippmann 98C ebolt, lp kit, m-16 kit, palmer stabilizer

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by UTDragun
    so why is the ult bad?

    i mean, how can you use a powerful noid and 9v?= whats the battery life?
    Its not a electromechanical 'noid, its a solenoid valve. We are using air here folks.

    Tiny 'noid = about four to five times the battery life over using a pancake.

    We need the RT kick from the On/Off to reset the actuator.

  7. #7
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    What kind of custom work are we talking for a MM rail? Man I love having a job, so I can get this kind of thing.
    "STAY OUT OF SMART PARTS SECTIONS.
    ANYONE CAUGHT STARTING *poof* IS GONE, PERIOD.
    THIS IS LAW"-PBN MOD
    GITRDONE!!!!!
    Tunamart for all of your mag needs
    Team Magfiea

    Long Live Tom Kaye
    Long Live The Mag

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj89
    What kind of custom work are we talking for a MM rail? Man I love having a job, so I can get this kind of thing.

    You just need to make an extension to move the VA out farther.

    The trigger guard is so big that it obstructs the original foregrip mount.

    It shouldn't be too bad, there's four or five different ways to pull it off.

  9. #9
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    Will gas thru foregrips work or will you now need a regulator?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    You just need to make an extension to move the VA out farther.

    The trigger guard is so big that it obstructs the original foregrip mount.

    It shouldn't be too bad, there's four or five different ways to pull it off.
    How dose this frame sit on a rt rail ?
    (How much room would be between the foregrip and frame?)


    Also, will the VA be a 15*?
    Last edited by dj89; 07-12-2005 at 11:59 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by b&r automag
    Will gas thru foregrips work or will you now need a regulator?
    Gas thru is fine. The LPR mounts on the VA and sticks forward under the barrel.

    You could use a reg there, I guess, but its kinda pointless (unless you want to '86 the reg on the valve, but that's another episode).

    DJ - The VA is made just like the one that ships with the RT Customs. With it mounted to the stock hole in the RTP rail there is about 3/16" between the VA and the trigger guard. With the VA pushed out flush with the front of the rail, there is 5/8" between them. VA is vertical, not 15 deg. If you want a 15 deg, you can mod one yourself, its just one tapped hole different.

    What was the point in posting that pic anyway?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    What was the point in posting that pic anyway?
    I waned to know how close it would be to that forgrip.

  13. #13
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    Is the lpr used to regulate the pressure put on the sear to fire? If not why is it there and where is the hose running, through the frame?

    sorry if there is a place that explains this but I am interested. If there is a link can I get it plz?

    thanks-
    Pat
    "An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind"
    -Ghandi


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj89
    I waned to know how close it would be to that forgrip.
    5/8 of an inch (0.625").

    You'll need to mod that foregrip though, to accept the LPR for this deal to work.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleepingbeauty
    Is the lpr used to regulate the pressure put on the sear to fire? If not why is it there and where is the hose running, through the frame?

    sorry if there is a place that explains this but I am interested. If there is a link can I get it plz?

    thanks-
    Pat
    Yup, the LPR steps the 700+ psi input down to the ~50-75 psi that is used to actuate the sear.

    The hosing runs into the front tip of the frame above where the trigger guard starts. The only hose exposed is the run from the LPR to there (about an inch of hosing).

    There hasn't been much talk about the inner workings, as I wanted to keep them under wraps.

    The LPR needs to be there and the hosing has been routed through the VA and frame so as to minimize its susceptibility to damage (and to make it show as little as possible).

  16. #16
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    2nd order is in and only 13 more to go!!!

  17. #17
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    Alright, we are off and running. All the parts have been started on.

    Look for raw parts to start showing up in four to six weeks.

    Then add three to four for anodizing, and two more for assembly, and you get the "best case" ship date.

    I am sure we will miss it though. These things never seem to go like I plan them, but we can always hope (and do the banana dance ).

    I will have the laser engraving stencil up in a few days. It will be an outline that you can just photoshop (or preferable Adobe Illustrator) into the design you want engraved on your frame. Its looking like two flats, one in the front and one behind the grips, about 1.5" long, and 0.5" tall (give or take, I just eyeballed it).

    Also, just so there is no confusion, the no charge custom colors are for solid colors only, on the VA, Frame, and Trigger. Mix-n-match is OK, but I need you to spell it out when you order (or I will forget when it comes time to ano). When in doubt, I will try to confirm, but if all contact fails, you will get gloss black (this is just CYA, we've got at least a month to iron it all out).

    Fades can be done too, but there will be a $25 extra charge, and you will need to supply a part with the fade you want matched already on it.

    No guarantees with the color and fade matching, but they will do their best.

    Now, go get 'em fellas!

  18. #18
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    How come it wont work with a twist lock body? My hopes for a Classic RT with an egrip are quickly fading

  19. #19
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    The twistlock assembly sticks out under the rail.
    Last edited by WenULiVeUdiE; 07-13-2005 at 09:29 AM.
    Hey, look at that! It's Santa!


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil
    How come it wont work with a twist lock body? My hopes for a Classic RT with an egrip are quickly fading
    Well, its not so much the body as the twist lock bushing thing itself.

    There was only so much room in the frame, and I had to locate the On/Off toggle and the status LED someplace. The area just in front of the front frame screw beckoned to me, so that's where I put that stuff. However, by it being there, that leaves no room for the twist lock bushing thing to stick down into the frame.

    I listed things as compatible/incompatible as to whether they would just bolt on and go or not. The twist lock won't.

    I'm sure with a little custom work, and a keen eye for some alternative hardware, we could make it work. Its just not going to be a bolt-on thing.

    In my world, everything is compatible with everything else, success just depends on how much time and money you want to devote to the effort.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by WenULiVeUdiE
    The twistlock assembly sticks out under the rail.
    Man, you beat me in at the buzzer.

    Announcer - "Its a dead heat. They're consulting the electron microscope . . . . . ."

    Consult . . . . Consult . . . . .

    Announcer - " . . . . . . And its WenULiVeUdiE, in a quantum finish!"

    Me - "No Fair! You changed the outcome by measuring it!"

    /nerd


  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    Gas thru is fine. The LPR mounts on the VA and sticks forward under the barrel.
    Does the VA that you are supplying resemble the stock one? So if i picture this correctly the front block will look like a spyder with a low pressure chamber correct?

    and is this the LPR (just in black ) that will be supplied?
    http://www.pbreview.com/pics/1112160468.jpg

    If i wanted a highly polished finished item like that of Deadlywinds raw karta bodies would that be an option?

    thanks coolhand
    Last edited by Carbon Blue; 07-13-2005 at 10:30 AM.

  23. #23
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    #3 is mine!

  24. #24
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    how will the efficiency be compared to a normal mech, or dm?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolHand
    Well, its not so much the body as the twist lock bushing thing itself.

    There was only so much room in the frame, and I had to locate the On/Off toggle and the status LED someplace. The area just in front of the front frame screw beckoned to me, so that's where I put that stuff. However, by it being there, that leaves no room for the twist lock bushing thing to stick down into the frame.

    I listed things as compatible/incompatible as to whether they would just bolt on and go or not. The twist lock won't.

    I'm sure with a little custom work, and a keen eye for some alternative hardware, we could make it work. Its just not going to be a bolt-on thing.

    In my world, everything is compatible with everything else, success just depends on how much time and money you want to devote to the effort.
    I hear ya.

    Its actually my brothers Classic RT. He is dying to get some kind of e-conversion for it. I dont know why he just doesnt buy a used emag. We have been talking about it in depth lately... I hadnt mentioned your frame unitl last weekend.. now I got him drooling too...

    I will see exactly 'how interested $$' he is and drop you an email.

  26. #26
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    Does this come with a drilled/tapped VA for the lpr? I'm thinking instead of getting the mod done so I can keep the Alpha rail, just buy a cheap used RTP style rail and have Delta milling done to it.

  27. #27
    Automaggot68 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by warbeak2099
    Does this come with a drilled/tapped VA for the lpr? I'm thinking instead of getting the mod done so I can keep the Alpha rail, just buy a cheap used RTP style rail and have Delta milling done to it.
    Yes it does.

  28. #28
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    Would you be able to Intellifeed this? I'm guessing no due to the board being used, but it doesn't hurt to ask for others who may be interested.

    I've never wanted a ULE body more...

  29. #29
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    unless they changed it, predator boards had intellifeed ports

    how does the efficiency compare to a mechanical mag or devil mag?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by UTDragun
    unless they changed it, predator boards had intellifeed ports
    I was not aware of that. Thanks.

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