Official Logic UMF thread!

[Automaggot68]

These frames will be ready soon!
You can Pre-order them HERE or Here!
Specs:

Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install, or we can machine your rail to look like the one in the pics below, giving a 60% weight reduction, machine your body for eyes, and install the eyes for you, including those nifty covers you see below too . . . for an added cost)
Roller Bearing Trigger
Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
Magnetic trigger return (totally adjustable return force)
DM5 Grips
Huge trigger guard
Integrated Dovetail Rail (you can use regular drops too)
Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
Complete kit comes with Jackhammer LPR (black)
Does not use the ULT
(you need to use a stock EMag on/off - The Emag pin and Xring will be included with the frame)
Uses one 9V battery (which will last you at least 15 cases)
Mounting hardware and allen keys included

Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail (like most of what Rogue sells).
Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug. (the eye covers will only work with ULE bodies though)

Will not work with twist lock bodies.

It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).




Any questions can be answered by Me, Or Coolhand himself.

[Duzzy]

Hopefully this doesn't turn out like the "Official DevilMag Thread"... That would be sad.

Anyways, to answer my first question I assume that "UMF" stands for "Ultimate Mag Frame" or something like that right?

Good luck with the project, and who knows, I may pick one up.

[CoolHand]

And I've got video proof!

Just transplanted all info that is available so its all in one place.

Here's a dry firing video. I'll do a vid with paint as soon as I get the body cut for eyes.

Right click the link below and select "save target as".

Vidage!

It's encoded using the Divx 5.2.1 codec

Specs:

Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install, or we can machine your rail to look like the one in the pics below, giving a 60% weight reduction, machine your body for eyes, and install the eyes for you, including those nifty covers you see below too . . . for an added cost)
Roller Bearing Trigger
Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
Magnetic trigger return (totally adjustable return force)
DM5 Grips
Huge trigger guard
Integrated Dovetail Rail (you can use regular drops too)
Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
Complete kit comes with Jackhammer LPR (black)
Does not use the ULT
(you need to use a stock EMag on/off - The Emag pin and Xring will be included with the frame)
Uses one 9V battery (which will last you at least 15 cases)
Mounting hardware and allen keys included

Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail (like most of what Rogue sells).
Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug. (the eye covers will only work with ULE bodies though)

Will not work with twist lock bodies.

It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).

Finished Design:

Driver's Side Full View


Passenger's Side Full View


Driver's Side Close View


Passenger's Side Close View (please disregard the ghetto-fabulous on/off switch, that obviously won't be there when my little PCB's are done)


Link to the Dealer's Thread.

That is all.

[mandatory]

Ill video!!! I love the look of the overall gun. nice job!! Im super jealous!! I even like the LPR.

[magman007]

why not use a better lpr? like a micro rock or something? what about a wgp tickler for less weight and less frontal profile?

[Automaggot68]

why not use a better lpr? like a micro rock or something? what about a wgp tickler for less weight and less frontal profile?

It was chosen to keep the cost of an already high priced frame lower for the customer.
If you supply your own, or pay for a different Reg, Ryan will slap it on for you.

Like on Mine? Either a MicroRock or a SP-Max flo.

[MarkM]

Just a personal opinion, but I think what Coolhand has created here is a viable alternative to other options and with possible collaboration a new Automag for the AGD lineup.
I say this because the ULE bodies could be produced like he has modified and supplied with a blanking plate if you didn't want to go the electro route. But if added to the AGD list of options when purchasing AGD could very well see a new rise to greater acceptance.

[Automaggot68]

Thanks for the input, Mark!

[rkjunior303]

why not use a better lpr? like a micro rock or something? what about a wgp tickler for less weight and less frontal profile?

I think due to the low cost and decent performance... Besides, I think he had one kicking around already.. ANY LPR will work...

[Automaggot68]

I think due to the low cost and decent performance... Besides, I think he had one kicking around already.. ANY LPR will work...

Yup.

[Skoad]

I think due to the low cost and decent performance... Besides, I think he had one kicking around already.. ANY LPR will work...

yea, i mean whats an upgrade without an upgrade!

[CoolHand]

why not use a better lpr? like a micro rock or something? what about a wgp tickler for less weight and less frontal profile?

Actually, its all the reasons given above and then some.

1) It is cheap.
2) It is reliable.
3) I already had one.
4) I know they flow well enough to keep up with an Impulse, so they are way overkill here.
5) Just about anything will work in this application.

We need such a minuscule amount of LP air here that just about any reg will supply it just fine. The WGP tickler sucks flow wise, but I'd bet it would work like a champ here. There just isn't that much air moving. We could set down and do the calculations, but I'd guess that a cocker uses ~3 times as much air to cycle the bolt as this thing does. The throw is very short, and the bore is not too much bigger. Add to that the fact that a 15 psi swing in pressure will not change the performance one bit, and you get a very wide operational envelope, which fits over a very large number of LPRs on the market now (I won't say all, but pretty damned close).

You can use whatever reg you like. I just went with the ANS because they are cheap and I trust them to do the job reliably.

[Emag2005]

This thing is amazing but I have some questions.
Is the frame really reliable? Have their been any problems in the testing phase?
What is a good hand held LPR like a for grip?
I know nothing about LPR. Do you have to oil them up or grease them every month?
Pretty excited about this frame since I placed my order today!

edit: I Mean Yesterday sorry

[CoolHand]

This thing is amazing but I have some questions.
Is the frame really reliable? Have their been any problems in the testing phase?
What is a good hand held LPR like a for grip?
I know nothing about LPR. Do you have to oil them up or grease them every month?
Pretty excited about this frame since I placed my order today!

Yes it's reliable. It is so simple that there just isn't that much stuff to go wrong. It sounds complex when we're talking about it, but it really is dirt simple when you get right down to it.

The only problems I've had thus far were with AGD parts.

Hand held LPR? Hmmmm . . . . . .

CP makes a nice LP reg, as does AKA, MacDev, and a host of others (Palmer's makes a nice one too, if a bit pricey).

If you pick your LPR right, you can just drop some oil in your bottom line and let that lube the whole system just like the Mag valve is used to. You shouldn't need to do this more than four times a year or so, unless you play twice a week or something.

[11 Bravo]

Come on! Do a vid using the level 10, lets not wait for the eyes.!
Very cool by the way.

[CoolHand]

OK folks, drum roll please . . . . . .

Right Click the link and choose "Save Target As".

Short Video with Paint

It sound graphed out at just a fuzz over 20bps. That's a stock HALO-B too, so I'm going to guess that its just not going to go faster than that (already using fresh batteries).

I'll see what I can do with the Cheetah HALO I've got kicking around here though.

One thing I did notice, is that you basically can't dry fire this thing. If you set the board timing to let you dry fire, its unnecessarily slow with the eyes on (since you also have a BIP delay when the eyes are on). If you set to to be fast with the eyes on (like in the video), it will chuff and short-stroke like a madman when you try to use it with them off, since the BIP delay is ignored when the eyes are off.

But, that's OK, you just have to shoot paint to show off.

It is fast as hell, I will say that.