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Thread: A couple warp feed questions...

  1. #1
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    A couple warp feed questions...

    Okay, easiest one first.

    I made the mistake of leaving my battery plugged into it while it sat around and when I went to play around with it today, obviously the battery was drained. So, I put a new one in. Well, when I switched it on, it just spun continuously. Now, I read in the instructions that if this happens I should turn down something...but of course I didn't know what it was talking about or where that knob was. In my opinion, the instructions kind've do a poor job by telling you to adjust things and refer to them as if you know what they are.

    Now, the harder one. I got this warp feed used from a guy that had it set up for intellifeed. I'm thinking of using it on my blowback. Well, anyways, I was reading some posts about how it can work on "sensitivity mode"...yet again, when I read the instructions, I couldn't figure out the whole "jumper" thing. I tried to do what it instructed, but the sensitivity mode didn't work. That was awhile ago...the battery should've been good then...does sensitivity mode require more battery power than intellifeed? Any better instructions on how to get that mode to work. I've read that maybe it could be a problem with the disk or springs or something??

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan
    Okay, easiest one first.

    I made the mistake of leaving my battery plugged into it while it sat around and when I went to play around with it today, obviously the battery was drained. So, I put a new one in. Well, when I switched it on, it just spun continuously. Now, I read in the instructions that if this happens I should turn down something...but of course I didn't know what it was talking about or where that knob was. In my opinion, the instructions kind've do a poor job by telling you to adjust things and refer to them as if you know what they are.

    Now, the harder one. I got this warp feed used from a guy that had it set up for intellifeed. I'm thinking of using it on my blowback. Well, anyways, I was reading some posts about how it can work on "sensitivity mode"...yet again, when I read the instructions, I couldn't figure out the whole "jumper" thing. I tried to do what it instructed, but the sensitivity mode didn't work. That was awhile ago...the battery should've been good then...does sensitivity mode require more battery power than intellifeed? Any better instructions on how to get that mode to work. I've read that maybe it could be a problem with the disk or springs or something??
    i dunno how to answer ur question, but intellifeed will only spin on key times, isntead of whenever you move like sensitivity, so that would explain excessive drain
    LP Spyder E99 Avant

  3. #3
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    you should find your answers HERE

    How to Fly: Throw yourself at the ground and miss. "Hichikers guide to the Galaxy"

  4. #4
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    new developments

    Well, I went out and took a look at the warpfeed. Found the blue dial to adjust the sensitivity. Not quite sure if I understand "Run In" or not...some of the advice in the warpfeed thread said to dial the sensitivity back until it stops. Other advice said to let it wun until the battery died (Great! Another dead battery!). For now, I just dialed it back till it stopped moving on it's own.

    I think I also figured out the jumpers. When I took some out, it cycled slower...when I added them it cycled faster. Then I went back and read the Warpfeed sticky and it said that it matters whether you put them in vertically or horizontally. I went by the diagram in the instructions then added one more horizontally and one more vertically...does this mean that I've done nothing because horizontal decreases the cycle rate while vertical increases the cycle rate?

    Now, the unresolved problem is the sensitivity setting. My warp works fine when I press the white button and fine when I hook the intellifeed wire to it. BUT, it does not work when I hit it or shake it. I went back and read the first 8-9 pages of the sticky...and it pointed me towards looking for the springs under the board. When I did so, I realized 2 things. First, my board mount screws were missing. Second, I could only see one spring under the board. So, I went ahead and ordered some screws, springs, and some hose and hose o-rings from AGD. I'm hoping that once I put the new springs in and tighten it down (NOT too much!) that the vibration sensor will work. My one remaining question is, where do the springs go? I saw one spring under there, but not the other one. The exploded parts view doesn't really show you exactly where the 2 springs go.

    I'd really like the sensor to work because it will be easier to see if it's going to work with my blowback in sensor mode. Once I know it's going to work, I might be able to modify the trigger to accept the intllifeed wire, but I don't want to start dremmeling the trigger until I know this is going to be beneficial nor do I want to cut and re-connect the intellifeed wire to make it fit the trigger frame if it's not going to work.

  5. #5
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    springs

    No expert advice on spring placement?

  6. #6
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    Up

    The springs will be arriving from AGD soon...must have Warp expert help!

  7. #7
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    tech help

    On the off chance I'm not talking to myself, I'm going to be working on my Warp this coming week...try to get the sensitivity mode to work. I got all the parts from the AGD store. But here's a question that popped into my head, let's say I'm too technically incompetant to fix it...would it be best to send it to AGD or Pro Team Products for repair? I've had positive experiences dealing with both places.

  8. #8
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    Post

    On the very off chance that people still read this post...

    I installed the new screws and spring today. Results, shaking it or hitting it will now get it to spin slightly...but it takes a significant amount of "smacking".

    One possible reason, one of the screws that holds the electronics down, well, the hole was stripped....I made due by putting in a screw...being very careful not to break the board. But this could be why my sensitivity to shaking is a little off.

    Now back to my previous question:

    What would you estimate the cost would be to send the Warp in to AGD? If the screw hole being stripped is the problem...then they would just have to replace that half of the body. I'd just order another body, but then I'd have to rewire the board because that side of the warp is the one with all the wires going through it.

    Next question, same question except substitue AGD with Pro-Team Products.?

  9. #9
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    The time interval the warp spins is dictated by how many jumpers you have on the jumper pins in the group J1(the group of pins below the motor pulley).
    the vibration setting is set by jumpering the bottom jumper pin in group J2(the pins below the sensitivity dial.
    the two upper pins are for the intelifed wire.
    to set the sensitivity dial up the sensitivity until the warp motor starts. stop. then turn back slowly until it stops. You are SET.
    Here is What mine Looks like when set for the longest feed time and vibration sensitivity.
    Last edited by shades; 03-27-2006 at 04:25 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shades
    The time interval the warp spins is dictated by how many jumpers you have on the jumper pins in the group J1(the group of pins below the motor pulley).
    the vibration setting is set by jumpering the bottom jumper pin in group J2(the pins below the sensitivity dial.
    the two upper pins are for the intelifed wire.
    to set the sensitivity dial up the sensitivity until the warp motor starts. stop. then turn back slowly until it stops. You are SET.
    Here is What mine Looks like when set for the longest feed time and vibration sensitivity.
    My J2 jumper is in the right place. If it weren't, the vibration mode wouldn't work at all.

    I have adjusted the sensitivity dial so that it spins just the right amount.

    The problem is less with the jumpers (I think) and more with the actual vibration mode working. I have to really smack it to get it to rotate...which has to be not right.

    Thanks Shades for the help though. I think since warpfeed posts don't seem to get much attention here anymore, I guess I'll e-mail AGD and Pro-Team direct for advice.

  11. #11
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    That sensitivity dial is not for adjusting the spin time of the Warp. It's the Warp's sensitivity to vibration. If it doesn't spin when you shoot, turn the sensitivity clockwise (I think). The jumpers are for adjusting dwell time (and sensor/signal modes). This shouldn't be this much of a problem for you - have you read the Warp manual? (Link to PDF, 466.5KB) If I still had my Warp I'd take it apart and post some pictures... The springs should be pretty easy to put in, though. They're both supposed to touch the disc of the vibration sensor and the board, one on the outside edge of the sensor and one closer to the center. There should be two holes above the sensor that are both perfectly sized for the springs. Just be careful with the three screws on the board, the holes strip really easily. The good news is you don't actually need them, but they do make putting the cover on easier. Good luck.

  12. #12
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    Okay, let me see if I got this straight...because I think I've got my jumpers and sensitivity dials mixed up.

    When I adjusted my sensitivity dial (little blue one)...I adjusted it to where it spun continuously, then dialed it back to where it stopped spinning continuously.

    As for jumpers, I moved the jumpers around to the point where, when I pressed the white button, the wheel spun just the right amount.

    As to the other (K2?) 3 jumpers...I think I have all 3 in. I know I only need the bottom one, but I think the manual said that on sensitivity mode you can keep all of them in. Or maybe in Intellifeed mode you leave all three in...now I forget.

    So what you're saying is that if I turn the blue dial up...I shouldn't have to hit it so hard to get it to spin? What if I adjust it up and it spins continuously?

    I'll try to fiddle with it again tommorrow. Maybe take the top 2 K2 jumpers out and adjust the sensitivity dial up...

    One question though...if I'm running...won't the warp start to feed just from the vibration? I'm assuming that the vibration from running is greater than the vibration from shooting.

  13. #13
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    Did you tought of getting a new Warp sensor & Rivet?????

    Link

    It kinda sounds like your Vibration Sensor is mesed up. But i could be wrong.

    You need only one Jumper on J2 (bottom right).

    I left all Jumpers in for the longest Spin possible. I never had Trouble with my Warp.

    Little_Ho

  14. #14
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    Thumbs up Victory!!

    I don't believe it...but I decided to try it out on the marker just to see what would happen...IT WORKS!! I don't know how...but everytime the gun fired...that darn warp shook just the right way and spun. I tried running around the garage to see if it would feed from my movement...NOPE!

    AGD...how did you do that? Is it magic? Amazing!

    So anyways...here's a pic of the set-up so far. I just need to pick up a piece of tubing to adapt the hose and clamp to the vert feed...I'll take a look at Home Depot this weekend. If I don't find anything, I'll have to spend $10 and order a real one from the MagSmith.

    I can't believe this project is actually going to work...amazing!


  15. #15
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    Post update

    Well, got the project completed:



    I ended up dremmeling a pipe connection fitting to use as an adaptor (brown/tan thing) between the 90 degree adaptor and feedneck.

    I thought everything turned out well...but I had a problem where the balls were getting stuck in the hose...right where the actual tubing connected to the male warp adaptor that goes into the Warp. Part of it was I cut the hose a little too small. The other part was I misunderstood the jumpers.

    I thought that vertically placed jumpers increased the rotation...horizontally placed jumpers decreased the rotation. It turns out that the more jumpers (no matter the direction), the lower the rotation. So, I too out all of the jumpers and it fed just fine.

    The Ending to the Story:
    I too the gun out to test it last weekend...it had the same problems as before. The velocity was low...so I had to use a stiffer spring...which caused it to chop even worse than with the less stiff spring. Either way, no matter what spring you use...it chops once you fire faster than 4-5bps.

    Because of the stupid marker, I had to call myself out of the first game...and that was the last straw I've screwed around with this stupid marker for too long and I'm sick of it. I've tried everything...but the blowback/blowby is SOOO bad with this marker that it was literally blowing the warp hose off the top of the marker! I had to take my free hand and hold the 90 degree fitting down...and by then it's inside was completely coated with paint and the balls were flying everywhere.

    So...after cleaning it, oiling it, and test firing it after returnign from the game...I listed it on Ebay WITHOUT the Warp. The Warp will now become part of my Minimag project...where it will work with a marker it was designed to work with and not a #$&ppy 32 degrees marker. I almost feel like I should apologize to the warp for humiliating it that way!

  16. #16
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    the warpfeed works fine with most blow back markers some markers are just not made for fast then 4bps. did you check your o rings

  17. #17
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    Don't forget your marker was ghetto-rigged at the feedneck. That could cause problems, too. I've used PTP's adapter on my Spyder with no problems. Because the Warp is a force-fed loader, blowback shouldn't be a problem, especially with the venting on the 90 degree adapter. Balls might be getting hung up where you have the Warp adapter attached to your gun and affecting feeding.

  18. #18
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    Thumbs down Marker Backstory

    This is not the first time the marker has done this. I've been battling this problem with this marker for over a year now.

    It worked fine two years ago...of matter of fact, I started using it instead of my Spyder because it was lighter and faster.

    Then, last year, I noticed that the velocity was low...so I increased to a stiffer spring. But then it chopped. So, I went back to the old spring and replaced all the o-rings. But the marker still had a low velocity. I polished the internals...that didn't work.

    I tried fiddling with a turbo valve...that didn't work either...it just leaked like mad. Come to find out most people that have ever tried to use a 32 degrees turbo valve have found the same problem with leaking.

    I finally broke down and sent the marker to 32 degrees. All they did was put the original main spring in it and send it back to me. When I fired it, it was shooting low. I e-mailed 32 degrees about it and asked them if they chronoed it before sending it to me because the reason I changed the spring was that it was shooting low. The tech guy at 32 degrees pretty much e-mailed me back lecturing me that they were doing me a favor by looking at it because it was an old marker and that the best course of action would be to upgrade to a better marker. I asked to talk to his supervisor because I thought that was an absurd response...he claimed he was the supervisor.

    So, then I decided to just sell it. I listed it with a bunch of other stuff (mask, CO2 tank, bag, etc...) for $65 on Ebay. The highest bid was $45 so I decided to keep it and mess with it some more.

    I put the less stiff spring in it and turned the velocity up to about 255fps. Even at that speed...at about 5bps, it chopped...badly...so bad that the ball shells would jam the entire gun.

    I thought maybe I could keep the blowback from happening by increasing the diameter of the o-rings that go around the bolt. The problem was, standard o-rings are either the same size, too small, or too big. So I actually ordered specially made o-rings...at about $1 a piece...two different kinds. None of them worked.

    I then thought a forcefeed sytem could counteract the blowback...enter the Warp.

    Now, as to the makeshift connector, it was definitely not the problem. It was dremmeled and polished to the exact size as the storebought one...but at 1/10 the price. The storebought adaptor would have only stayed in if it was bolted down...I had trouble even holding down the 90degree adaptor the blowback was so bad.

    So...I'm done. I'm sick of this stupid marker. I paid $85 for it 4 years ago...I probably have $200 into it trying to get it to work...and even in a package with other paintball items, I can't even get $65 for it...heck, I'll be lucky to get $45 for it. Oh well, it's not worth my time...I might as well put $15 into Paypal rather than just throw it away. Hopefully whoever buys it fires slow or doesn't have the same problems I have had.

  19. #19
    you get what you pay for........you bught an $85 gun and you got an $85 gun.....the spyders seem to be gaining in popularity...try one of them....i had one when i first started and had no problems with it at all....

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by IcantBelieveit
    you get what you pay for........you bught an $85 gun and you got an $85 gun.....the spyders seem to be gaining in popularity...try one of them....i had one when i first started and had no problems with it at all....
    screw that...I got a Mag now...no sense in downgrading. Besides, I have a Spyder...a great gun...had it for years...definitely better quality than 32 degrees for certain.

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