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Thread: How To Put An Ego Frame On A Mag

  1. #1
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    How To Put An Ego Frame On A Mag

    Latches109's guide to putting an ego frame on an automag.

    Parts:
    *7/32nd drill bit
    *SMC SY113A-SG-PM3 [solenoid]

    http://www.airsoldier.com has them or order from SMC
    http://www.smcetech.com/CC_host/page...,smc,V_M,1115))
    this is the break down of the noid SN, if you order directly from SMC
    SMC = company,
    SY = type of noid in their product line,
    1 = 100 series,
    1 = normally closed,
    3 = piping, body ported,
    A = large flow style,
    S = 5 Volts,
    G = Grommet lead wire .3m,
    [don't need a surge suppressor]
    [non locking push style manual over ride]
    PM3 = Body ported for m3 threads

    * A RAM that fits. This is the hard part, I may be able to get more of the one I used but I'm not sure. You will just have to experiment with this part. I have yet to mount the solenoid, and have found it to bounce, and move. This should be eliminated once I figure out the best way to mount it. Mine is wedged in there right now. MPA-3 works. Check out the other emaggo threads. links at the bottom.
    *Hose
    *barbs
    *LPR

    Directions:
    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894162"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055048.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894169"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055279.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
    Use the ULT in the valve. Put in lots of shims^^

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894161"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021054960.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
    Drill the front of the frame like so[but straight]^^


    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894163"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055074.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
    Line up the frame and rail then mark where to drill for the back

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894164"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055151.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>


    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894165"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055150.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
    remove front arm of sear^^

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894167"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055278.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894421"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021591011.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
    solder noid lead to a 2 pin connector to connect with the board, you can destroy a timmy eye harness for it like i did. or crimp one on if you have the tool. Or buy one here Link like Loguzzzzzz did.

    plug it all in
    connect all the hoses
    get the noid situated just right so the grip closes
    air up
    power on
    and go mowing.

    here is some video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYvKxMlZ_Vo

    <a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/4278/dsc0012hd5.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
    emaggos:
    Latches109 - here

    Loguzzzzzz - Thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...78#post2335978
    Video1:http://feat.putfile.com/flow/putfile...zzzzz-Emaggo-1
    Video2: http://media.putfile.com/code.php?n=Loguzzzzzz-Emaggo-2[url/]

    AirAssault -Thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=213280
    Last edited by latches109; 03-12-2011 at 08:56 PM.

  2. #2
    I'm in the process of this myself......even thought about offering it as a service.


    WTH actuator is that?

  3. #3
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    Im interested in this post.

    If you can,.. provide as many pictures of your work as possible!

    Looks do-able!
    _______________________
    Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

  4. #4
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    how wide is that actuator and where did u get it

  5. #5
    I know! Clippard SM-6.

    I've got one that I'll sell if anyones interested...

  6. #6
    wjr, pm me a price on that actuator...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjr
    I know! Clippard SM-6.

    I've got one that I'll sell if anyones interested...

    Are you sure?

    The SM-6 measures over an inch long. Thats acuator looks like a MPA3 with a smaller bore ram.

    And then there is the ground down housing as well.

    The SM-6 is brass,.. that housing in the picture looks like raw aluminum grind.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjr
    I know! Clippard SM-6.

    nope

  9. #9
    then what actuator is it? I think most of us understand the basic principle, but are curious what parts your using.

  10. #10
    Crap... Then what is it? Is it a 3/8ths bore?

    And Txaggie, so you know, the SM-6 has been used before and it should work fine as long as you have the sapce.

  11. #11
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    Some more
    Top and side view pictures.
    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894168"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055266.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

    <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4894166"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/6021055188.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

    http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0087jb2.jpg



    it's 5mm bore

  12. #12
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    Looks great!!! Really good idea!!! Do you have anything you don't like about the setup as fare as reliability and performance??

    I also wonder if you think you could possibly fit the solenoid in the rail somehow, like one of the ule slots?? Might be a paint to take apart then but who knows???

  13. #13
    not that noid you couldnt. There is a small noid that would probably fit in rail, but it's not very well made and wont take a reasonable input PSI.

  14. #14
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    has any oine fiqured the ram out yet please i need one soon and i dont like the mpa 3 so


    http://cgi.ebay.com/Pneumatic-Air-Cy...em120091036915

    but its too big how hard would it be to make one aluminum block with hole drilled for a plate with and orign and a rod and put a spring on the rod and then take another peice of metal and cover the back drill and tape them is harder than that
    Last edited by captian pinky; 03-03-2007 at 11:23 AM.

  15. #15
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    or can i tear apart a cocker ram cut the outside then retape it for the back and then add a spring in the front part


  16. #16
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    uugghhh. Not to be mean, but reading your sentences is enough to make anybody cringe....

  17. #17
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    they are not sentences lol

  18. #18
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    a period would be nice.

    anyway, I used a double acting cylinder, with a 5mm bore with and a 5mm stroke length. The provlem is that i ordered a bunch of different clyinders along time ago, [for experimentation] but shaved off the company name on the particular cylinder. The other downside is i lost all my favorites when i reformatted my computer. I will find it though. I haven't had the time lately....

    Latches109

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by latches109
    a period would be nice.

    anyway, I used a double acting cylinder, with a 5mm bore with and a 5mm stroke length. The provlem is that i ordered a bunch of different clyinders along time ago, [for experimentation] but shaved off the company name on the particular cylinder. The other downside is i lost all my favorites when i reformatted my computer. I will find it though. I haven't had the time lately....

    Latches109
    What about that noid your using?

    I know which one it is,.. but has it started leaking yet?

    My biggest issue, as well as BigEvil's, was the noid was a leak problem from the get go.

    Its a great unit and all,.. just that after messing with it to test the limits of the gun it just broke.

    I have my gun cycling way beyond 20BPS (someone contacted me to make a video for proof. Hopefully the weekend of the 17th you will see it posed here) and I think that to go beyond 20BPS the noid needs to be at a higher input PSI,.. at least the max input psi does.

    Food for thought,... input on this wold be great!

  20. #20
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    noid is rated for .7 bar It will leak above this pressure. I haven't had any problems yet.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by latches109
    noid is rated for .7 bar It will leak above this pressure. I haven't had any problems yet.

    Not that I want your gun to break or anything.

    But if you test it out a bit more, try maxing out the ROF.

    I dont use EGOs so I dont know what the software can do.

    If you go above that ROF for say, 1000 shots, check for leaks in the noid.

  22. #22
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    SO I was thinking, why not put the noid and possibly even the board in an emag battery case?? Then you could possibly use an actual ego solenoid and/or better etc. Also then you could use any frame u want and then would it be possible to use the Regular pneumatic ram commonly used in pneumags?? It would be sweet if someone could mill the emag battery case for the button holes & lcd window like the frame too!!

  23. #23
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    I was just lookng at your ram you used.

    Looks ALMOST like mine. Mine is a bit longer and slightly deeper but drops into the I-frame with no milling required. Whats the width of that EGO frame internally?

    My bore is larger too,... Im using an 8mm bore. I was going to try the 6mm & 4mm bore but between gas usage and the stoke to strike force on the sear using an R/T on-off.... 8mm as the way to go.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholai
    SO I was thinking, why not put the noid and possibly even the board in an emag battery case?? Then you could possibly use an actual ego solenoid and/or better etc. Also then you could use any frame u want and then would it be possible to use the Regular pneumatic ram commonly used in pneumags?? It would be sweet if someone could mill the emag battery case for the button holes & lcd window like the frame too!!

    Dont quote me on this or anything, but I do believe this is already in the works.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me
    Not that I want your gun to break or anything.

    But if you test it out a bit more, try maxing out the ROF.

    I dont use EGOs so I dont know what the software can do.

    If you go above that ROF for say, 1000 shots, check for leaks in the noid.

    noid won't leak unless the lpr creeps up. The lpr is able to keep up at 15.4 bps[ego's cap] A few cases have been through this noid, with no leaks.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholai
    SO I was thinking, why not put the noid and possibly even the board in an emag battery case?? Then you could possibly use an actual ego solenoid and/or better etc. Also then you could use any frame u want and then would it be possible to use the Regular pneumatic ram commonly used in pneumags?? It would be sweet if someone could mill the emag battery case for the button holes & lcd window like the frame too!!
    why over engineer things?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky
    or can i tear apart a cocker ram cut the outside then retape it for the back and then add a spring in the front part

    check the diameter

  28. #28
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    I am unsure why many are suggesting to relocate the noid when it fits perfectly in the frame with everything else. Just a thought.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by latches109
    I am unsure why many are suggesting to relocate the noid when it fits perfectly in the frame with everything else. Just a thought.
    I wanna see that gun max out the ROF.

    Several people cant explain why the noid starts leaking.

    I say its the ROF to recharge rate, but Im not all savy in the ways of noids.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by latches109
    I am unsure why many are suggesting to relocate the noid when it fits perfectly in the frame with everything else. Just a thought.

    It may look "clashy" where you have it, but it obviously works.

    Could you measure the top of the frame for me?

    I would like to know how wide that frame gap is that you put the ram into.

    I see you had to take a bit off the ram, so I was wondering it mine would fit where yours had to be modified.

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