from an engineering standpoint? your kidding right? I know your giddy about possibly getting a frame, but you need to stop and think about what your saying be4 posting. Putting the actuation point closer to the trigger pivot point leads to a LONGER pull for the same movement of the actuator. Yes it would make the trigger pull lighter, but you are already dealing with a much lighter pull because the longer sear arm requires less pressure to actuate. Once you hit a certain point lightness doesnt matter, thats why you need a spring or magnet for return. I'm not trying to rag on you warbreak, but your making claims in your posts you know nothing about....claiming its more efficient, better trigger pull? claiming its meticulously engineered? YOU DONT KNOW ANY OF THIS. You are sounding like a fanboy in your posts.Originally Posted by warbeak2099
Luke, Ive got to agree with you, IDK if it is because of the long wait or not, but I expected a lot more out of this frame. I really expected a new 3 way instead of just using an off the shelf part(I thought Garf claimed a "better" 3 way when he originally released the video?)
MANN, its same concept, only #70 is replaced with an air line and the 2 components are separated. 1 piece design has an advantage of less possible spots to leak, 1 solid piece so easier mounting, faster actuation because less air is wasted in the line and less restrictions of nipples and finally a more compact design. The downfall of the 1 piece is adjusting the placement can be a PITA since both the ram and 3 way are connected(adjusting one effects the other)
smoothice a new sear would have been expensive, that tiny piece of aluminum is much cheaper to make than a hardened piece of steel. I agree that seems like a weak link...possibly creating headaches for users. If someone happens to get epoxy in the sear hole(where the clevis attaches) it will be a real PITA to drill it out.....and dont forget these frames are marketed to people who dont have resources to to build their own pneu...meaning they dont have tools to drill out the epoxy. (quick scenario, your at the field, your LPR starts creeping, so you want to switch back to your intelli, you break off the epoxied on sear extended, but you have epoxy in the sear hole....now what?)
As for all the people that are claiming these frames are better than DIY frames...STOP until you have a frame in your hand and actually know how they perform. Claiming product A outperforms another product makes no sense unless you have experience with both.....which no one does, because no one has these frames yet.