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Thread: Look what I made.

  1. #1
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    Look what I made.

    May have been done before, but some of you might appreciate this.

    Anybody care to summize it's intended purpose.
    Be Safe!

  2. #2
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    A spacer for a classic RT?

  3. #3
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    I guess that was to easy

  4. #4
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    You had me seriously confused for a second. Looked like a 1 round springfeed at first lol. I guess it helps I have a classic RT myself.


  5. #5
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    Ya, I plan to fit mine with all the latest and greatest upgrades. Partly to show that it can be done, mostly cause my wife won't let me spend the money for a current model.

  6. #6
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    nice

    very nice. now lets see some pictures of it on the moddified setup.

    -Chris
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  7. #7
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    If your rail is one of the ones that didn't have all of the air ports connected, you could even do some cosmetic and ULE milling to the back of the rail. Are you going to shorten the front and add a normal foregrip too?

  8. #8
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    Wouldn't u like to know!?
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    It'd be cool to shorten the front and mount the foregrip directly to the rail. IMO the RT foregrip is the coolest looking one available.

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  9. #9
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    The rail can be milled to lighten, but not much can be done in the back. I do plan on mounting the grip directly, but one thing at a time. I still need to do some detail work on the spacer to get it to fit the way I want, doing it buy hand takes time. I also need to find a body I can afford.



  10. #10

    ??????????????

    so does this part make the ule body usable on the rt?


    im dumb help me out..

  11. #11
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    That"s the plan.

  12. #12

    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    pls keep me posted on this thread im lookin to do this to my RT also.....

    ide love to hear if it work out on the marker

  13. #13
    any updates?>

  14. #14
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    Doing things by hand take time, I have found a body so should have something in another week.

  15. #15

    :)!!!!!!!!!!

    sweet let me know if this works out .....i so need to do this to my rt hell i might even keep the thing if i can get a ule body on it



    Quote Originally Posted by atech2
    Doing things by hand take time, I have found a body so should have something in another week.

  16. #16
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    Would the spacer be the same as if u were to just cut the back portion u need from a classic rt body?

  17. #17
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    I would think that would work, but the RT body being specific, I wouldn't want to destroy it potentionaly srewing it up to be un-useable.
    Last edited by atech2; 09-01-2008 at 08:38 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quick update.
    I have a ULE body that I have tried to fit, but the front frame screw hole seems to be about .050 off of where I think it needs to be. I have a few things to measure and check, but apparently AGD changed some specs that has never been addressed. If someone wants to volunteer to take some measurements on a standard mag rail, maybe we can figure out where they changed things. I will finish this project, but want it to be right.

  19. #19
    ide love to help but i dont own a set of mics.

  20. #20
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    Thanks busby, very helpful. I was able to pick up an RT Pro today, so now I can take my own measurements. The front frame screw hole is about .038" off. This will be a require a minor modification to the rail to correctly space the bolt in the body. This may not sound like much, but could cause feeding proplems. Would welcome anyones thoughts on this, unfortunatly taking a picture of .038" may be out of the question.
    Last edited by atech2; 09-08-2008 at 10:54 PM.

  21. #21

    news...?

    hows things going on the project

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by atech2
    The front frame screw hole is about .038" off.
    Which direction?

  23. #23
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    I thought classic rt and rtpro grip frames were interchangeable other than having to drill out the hole for the banjo bolt?(or the other way around add a bushing to use an classic rt frame on a rt pro) If they are interchangeable that should mean the hole center to center spacing should be the same

  24. #24
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    I thought that myself. The front frame screw hole is definatly spaced farther back on my RT Classic rail that on my RT Pro rail. I will take some accuate measurments and post them this weekend.

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by warbeak2099
    It'd be cool to shorten the front and mount the foregrip directly to the rail. IMO the RT foregrip is the coolest looking one available.
    Hell yeah it is, that's one of the many reasons i got one.

    I'm hopefully going to draw one of these up in solidworks and then get it made out of aluminum so i can anno it to match the body i get, also i'm going to make it slanted back like the original, i've been thinking about this for some time actually, and i want to make my classic rt look better.

  26. #26
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    Maybe I have confused some of you. The grip frame holes, front and rear, are the same center to center, twist lock to sear is the same center to center, but the relation to each other is a few 10ths of an inch different.

    The reason grip frames are somewhat interchangeable, is the hole for the twist lock on the trigger frame is larger enough to compansate for this difference.

    Before you all ask why I would be concerned with the twist lock hole since it's not used with a ULE. I am more concerned with the sear and feed location, but the twist lock is directly propotional to those locations. The grip frame ties it all together so they must all be correct for proper operation.
    Last edited by atech2; 09-10-2008 at 06:36 PM.

  27. #27
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    hmm

    so let me get this straight. you have the front hole off by .038". now is that forward or backwards?

    either way what i would sugeest would work for moving it.


    I would suggest milling a slot in that section of the rail (dont know if their is any problems with the air line there).....but from there mill a piece of aluminum to fit into that slot [with the same thickness as the rail]. from there all you need to do is mark and tap the hole in the correct location.


    -Chris

  28. #28
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    Both the front and rear frame holes are spaced back farther with relation to the twist lock and sear. I plan on modifing the rail in a way similiar than you suggested Chris, but this would also mean modifing the grip frame to. We are talking .050 of an inch so not to difficult to do.

  29. #29
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    wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.

  30. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Hilltop Customs
    wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.
    Nope, he's gotta leave the hole fore the banjo bolt alone otherwise the marker won't work.

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