Introducing the Micromag 2009

[Mayvik]

ya, i was just explained that by 4 people in about 10 minutes haha. I am seeing if i can trade spots with the person on the list because i really need that spot... my gf and i just got engaged and we met on the 13th and i told her that i would do something to make her permanently on my mind and paintball gun (shes jealous of my mag)

so thought that getting the s/n 13 would show a true effort to getting something special on my marker

Now that we know how much it's worth to you, S/N 13 will cost a premium :P

[The_Joker]

Holy Crap!!!

I'm sportin' wood!

Will be prepaying shortly..... and thanks for including a sexy sight rail!!!

[Tracy_ptp]

For what it's worth, the density difference between 6061 and 7075 is in the third decimal place in pounds per cubic inch. In order to weigh 2lb, you'd be looking at a solid 1.9" square block 10" long...so there's no way the body will weigh that. I can't imagine these weighing much more than a MM 2000 body, which is not very heavy at all...if anything probably a bit less. I'm betting the body comes in around 9-10 ounces.

Thanks for saving me!!!

[dark blade]

good cuz i was thinking about taking my deposit back... i cant believe you guys would try to sell a 6 pound square block of raw aluminum with some random threads and screws everywhere as the new body of the era

(ducks from the PTP acidrain bullets) (hide mode again)

teehee, no but in all honesty... i am VERY excited to see how this turns out

[Chris Nearchos]

i just wanted to give a heads up on some possible solutions i can offer for this body for all the people wanting to use an ACE or Break-Beam eye system.

if those people interested, head over to this thread: https://automags.org/forums/showthrea...36#post2600436 and please give me some feedback. that way i can have a solution(s) ready for the bodies when they come to life.


wouldnt mind some input from ptp if they would like to say a word or two.


Thanks for your time,
-Chris

[LK-13]

WOOHOO!!
can't wait!
funny thing, you design will work perfectly with what I'm building!!
we are going to have to talk about uh... future business...
going to be calling on Feb. 2, 2009 to place my order.

[Looper]

Tracy,
Would it be OK to stop by the Portland Office and pre-pay for my two bodies? (that sounded strange...) Just let me know what would be a good time?

Thanks,
Shawn

[doc_Zox]

a splash anno could be difficult because each of the parts will be annoded separately and the splash won't run across the the parts



green acid:


red acid:

[dark blade]

well... i do not know much about ano, but i know that if they took all the pieces and ano'd them all gloss black, and took the pieces and laid them together and used a bit of acid to remove the finish on some spots, and then ano'd the whole things slime green it would work... theoretically

but then again i do not do ano, so i do not know how that would work

[dark blade]

photo is property of ShotOnSight

this is just proof that an acidwash on multiple pieces can still be done to look great.

[Sumthinwicked]

edited

[dark blade]

thefool told me that you do a base layer of a darker color and then use acid to expose the bare metal and then put a second layer over it because the darker color shows through and makes a "fade" to the other color... hence why black always looks great with another color in an acidwash.

[Sumthinwicked]

hed know better than me my friend did it the other way

[Engus]

dark blade - its not a big deal, but could you please use the 'edit' feature and stop double posting?

and the downside to a acid wash on the body is trying to match the rest of the parts later.

[dark blade]

removed double posts and will be more weary of it

sorry for clogging the thread,

also... i understand the problem with the acidwash, yet... if they offer the option of sending in pieces to match ano, it would be possible to send them all in and have them match right from the start.

As with any other type of ano, there are always differences in how strong and dark vs light the ano job is.

i have an all polish ano'd black e-tac and none of the parts match (except the ones done by the same anodizer)

matching pattern would be my last concern... i only want to ano the body anyways

[Tracy_ptp]

my level 10 worked wonderfully on my xmag. I never used the ace. IMO it is not worth wasting time on.

A few questions:

-What length are the bodies. I just read the whole thread, and did not see that spec.

-How tall are the bodies? IE will I need an odd sized on/off pin and that spacer between my body and emag lowers to get it to work correctly?

- What method of a steel retainer are you using for the breech. Are you using an AGD ss washer with c clip, an Xmag type screw in, or a PTP Micromag 2000 Press fit washer? (Please be the first one)

-What is the width of the front of the body (where the asa goes) is it the standard ~ 1" or is it wider/narrower?

- Are you having the same person/company anno these as your other PTP products? The reason I ask is I would possibly like to get a raw one sent in to match my golden MicroE, and would want the colors to be close.

The body looks good.
IMO the best color to anno them is gloss black, but thats just my .02

Hey - it's Forest. We will use as many of the Airgun specs as possible to make life easier. We are pulling a lot of those numbers from the TAC ONE although we are putting it on a diet. I would have to go in and pull the exact numbers from a drawing, but that's pretty much where we are.

We are so-so on the washer with clip and are planning on a simple pressed in washer design (not the standard Micro one).

On/off pins are always a bit personal when it comes to any valve or body and/or degree of reactive trigger that you want. We will keep you in the ballpark and you tweak.

The gold ano was done by our secondary anodizer who does our polishing. I'm still a little concerned about polishing this run of bodies and possibly having some tolerance issues. We'll have a sit down with them and discuss it in any case. "Production" polishing isn't always as good as "custom" work either. We'll look at all of the options.

[ZoomZ@PTP]

There will be 2-3 prototypes made and as the parts are comming off the machines , im going to have Jay Hunter standing next to me to assemble the body into a working gun to make sure everything is right with my programming and machines .

Jay will get the first prototype and the others will go to Forest for final aproval before i hit the go buttons on the machines .

I plan on making at least 5 lefty blocks for warp right guns .

Theres a couple other questions that were asked that i will get to in the morning when i get to the shop and have numbers in front of me .

[dark blade]

so this is going to be an emag/RT length assembly? YAY

i need it to fit my emag lowers perfectly. I know people have said it would fit, but i would prefer ti to come from one of the actual PTP employees... no offence to anyone else

[secretweaponevan]

Tracy, I have a question.

Does the bottom of the breech module have to be radiused? I think it would look better if it was squared off. As it stands, if the module is rotated to a warp left position, the rounded "bottom" of the breech module will now not flow with the right side of the body.

Could you possibly have Forest do a render of the module in a warp left position with and without the radiused bottom? I think you'll see what I mean.

Thank you much.

[Tracy_ptp]

Tracy, I have a question.

Does the bottom of the breech module have to be radiused? I think it would look better if it was squared off. As it stands, if the module is rotated to a warp left position, the rounded "bottom" of the breech module will now not flow with the right side of the body.

Could you possibly have Forest do a render of the module in a warp left position with and without the radiused bottom? I think you'll see what I mean.

Thank you much.

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

[Tracy_ptp]

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

Sorry (Forest here)- I missed Russell's reply above while I was probably single finger typing that response. As I said - he won't let it look anything but really sweet...

[dark blade]

i understand the streamlined look of everything... but is there any way to "spice it up" and make some cool milling along the sides and top... i think the sides (instead of being almost like a hexagon) would look better rounded and milled with an almost "artistic" design to make it look better (to me anyway)

[secretweaponevan]

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

I don't know what you mean by "half".

Perhaps the bottom of the module is radiused to accommodate those who wanted to be able to run the module at 45* angles since the "star" at the front of the module has 8 lobes (360*/8=45*), but ran at warp left or warp right, the rounded bottom will now be at a side position and the sides of the body are flat, not rounded. Once you see it rendered at a warp left you'll see the funk.

[secretweaponevan]

Edit.......double post........Beemer was here

[micromag-man]

Tracy, Forrest, Zoom.

I know there are a few that would like it to be tweaked this way or that and i respect their needs and wants in hopes that the final product will be great. I just want to take a moment to say THANKS.

Thanks for taking the time to develop this.

Thank you for listening to the original idea.

Thanks for coming this far.

Thanks for creating something that has caused many to become excited.

Thanks for all the extra effort, time, and patience with this.

OVERALL, just a big THANK YOU

Thanks!

[Dend78]

I don't know what you mean by "half".

Perhaps the bottom of the module is radiused to accommodate those who wanted to be able to run the module at 45* angles since the "star" at the front of the module has 8 lobes (360*/8=45*), but ran at warp left or warp right, the rounded bottom will now be at a side position and the sides of the body are flat, not rounded. Once you see it rendered at a warp left you'll see the funkiness.

i believe they are talking the Polish half

secretweaponevan
only Half polish

[MANN]

Hey - it's Forest. We will use as many of the Airgun specs as possible to make life easier. We are pulling a lot of those numbers from the TAC ONE although we are putting it on a diet. I would have to go in and pull the exact numbers from a drawing, but that's pretty much where we are.

We are so-so on the washer with clip and are planning on a simple pressed in washer design (not the standard Micro one).

On/off pins are always a bit personal when it comes to any valve or body and/or degree of reactive trigger that you want. We will keep you in the ballpark and you tweak.

The gold ano was done by our secondary anodizer who does our polishing. I'm still a little concerned about polishing this run of bodies and possibly having some tolerance issues. We'll have a sit down with them and discuss it in any case. "Production" polishing isn't always as good as "custom" work either. We'll look at all of the options.

Thanks for the update

Im glad to hear it will be rt length.

Will the simple pressed in washer be removable/ reusable (I question this because I will more than likely want to anno/reanno it.)

[secretweaponevan]

i believe they are talking the Polish half

secretweaponevan
only Half polish

LOL! And I scrutinized my post looking for me mentioning half of the module/body.
Viva la Poland!

[Engus]

Thanks for the update

Im glad to hear it will be rt length.

I think you may be a little confused. its tac1 specs as far as sear and not needing a spacer for an emag, but the body is not as long as a rt rail.

[Ruler_Mark]

Did you guys think about posisitoning the detent on the top left or right edge that is at a 45* to the feedneck hole?(the cut edge on the top) possibly doing a thin wire detent like the 02/03 vikings but shorter? then if cut right wont run into issues with L or R sides detent hitting the body.. Also never was answered is there going to be UL'ing under the boddy where the frame merrys?