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Thread: Before I get to work... Trigger issue

  1. #1

    Before I get to work... Trigger issue

    I have a Automag RT ULE Custom that is practically new. Ordered it with a ULE trigger and x-valve. I use a Nitro duck adjustable with the 850 piston.

    I went out last night (10/2/2009) to play a few games.

    I aired up, marker set itself, chronographed then was able to shoot about half a hopper then the trigger would not reset itself during the first game.

    I turned off and on my asa to see if the marker would 're-click' and get going, but it did not.

    While chronographing, I noticed the marker, which previously was set perfectly, would fluctuate from 220 - 254 (field speed is 250), so I had to dial it down so it wouldn't shoot higher.

    After the trigger wouldn't fire, looking at it closely, the pin wouldn't stick out far enough out for the trigger to hit it. At the field I took the marker apart and put it back together, and it still wasn't long enough.

    So before I get to work tomorrow on figuring this out, what could have caused this to happen, and what is the best way to go about fixing it? Would the fix also improve the chronographing issue?

    Also, to make matters worse, my nitro duck adjustable tank decided it would start leaking. Leaking through the pin and it won't set itself properly for some reason. So I have limited air to try this out as I have the asa on to hold in the air.

    - Braxo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Did you put a couple drops of oil in the ASA before you started shooting?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ManInBlack
    Did you put a couple drops of oil in the ASA before you started shooting?
    Yes I did. I even put a little more in because I haven't used it in a month and a half.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sacramento, Ca
    try loosening up the feild strip screw a bit, but not too much. It might be too tight.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Ocala, Florida
    your tank could be causing the problems too , i had an asa that would push the pin in too far and it would cause similar problems.

  6. #6
    Bringing this thread back from the dead as I was never able to get my marker to shoot again. Seems to be the same issue and I tried the various suggestions.

    A field just opened by my place (Buffalo) and I'd like to get back into the game. When I was having my issues, I put the marker away and only just brought it back out.

    I re-oiled the marker, connected the air, the marker clicked, and I was able to fire the trigger about three times before the pin wouldn't reset it. Discharging and recharging the marker, the trigger would reset but could only be used three times.

    Also, when the trigger becomes unresponsive, air leaks down the barrel.


    - Braxo

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
    Sounds like bolt stick. Try the next size up carrier.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Yes, definitely bolt stick. You need to retune your level 10 bolt system.

    The carriers are sized using lines and dots. Each line represents a 1 and a series of dots represents 0.5. Eg; 2 lines and dots equals size 2.5. Carriers range from size 0 to 3.5 but most people only have from 0 to 2.5 and most new kits have even less.

    When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

    For carrier sizing:

    Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

    Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

    For spring adjustment:

    You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definitely clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.

    For 250fps, you will probably be fine with the short spring.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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