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Thread: Classic Valve Leaking Hard out the Reg back

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  1. #1
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    Question Classic Valve Leaking Hard out the Reg back

    I just purchased a classic valve and I've oiled everything well but Gas continually leaks out the back of the marker through the valve velocity adjust. If I turn it down enough that it stops leaking it doesn't fire period. It also will not fire when it's leaking and the velocity is turned up. Anyone know what I should do?

    btw, it has the standard lvl 7 bolt installed.

    Reg spring is in the right way. If I turn it up all the way it seems to be releasing full input pressure 850 out the back.

    I already tried adding shims to the regulator piston I put 3 in and it showed no improvement. I'm really stuck on this one.
    Last edited by CatoRockwell; 01-09-2010 at 05:00 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatoRockwell
    I just purchased a classic valve and I've oiled everything well but Gas continually leaks out the back of the marker through the valve velocity adjust. If I turn it down enough that it stops leaking it doesn't fire period. It also will not fire when it's leaking and the velocity is turned up. Anyone know what I should do?

    btw, it has the standard lvl 7 bolt installed.

    Reg spring is in the right way. If I turn it up all the way it seems to be releasing full input pressure 850 out the back.

    I already tried adding shims to the regulator piston I put 3 in and it showed no improvement. I'm really stuck on this one.
    the reply in post 2 really worked well for me.

    https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=246743

    If post 2 doesn't work post 3 might be your only option.

    Ando posted pictures of the disassembly somewhere but i can't find the thread now

  3. #3
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    Ck the BE forums. Just posted on the thread you opened over there.

  4. #4
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    I can't tell ya what the fix is, but I can tell you to let me know if it don't work out... I'll get the fix figured out...

    Aight??

    I'll also look around and see what I can find about fixing it... as far as I know the o ring that's on the reg piston is the only thing back there to change out... I'll see if I can find the answer as well...

    DM

  5. #5
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    Yeah, like DM said, check that the regulator piston O-ring is in good shape. It sounds like it might not be there at all.

  6. #6
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    What I posted on BE.
    I'm making a vid tonight at work on how to disassemble it. I'll have it uploaded tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ando View Post
    If your strap for cash you can fix it. Get a allen key (7/32) and open up the brass piston. First thing that will come out is a spring, a metal plate and a rubber seal. That seal is your problem. If you look closely you'll see circular groves in the center of it (can also feel it). Just turn that seal around so the groves are against the metal plate and not against the front of the piston then reassemble. Install the allen set screw all the way down tight and reassemble the marker. You should be rocking.


    That's a temp fix till you get a new one. Get with Tuna and buy one cause once it starts leaking again. That piston is Tango Uniform. I wouldn't replace it with the new one till that one starts leaking again. How long will it last is UNK

    EDIT: Found a pic. This piston is from a RT valve but the internals are the same for both. The rubber seal is sec to last on the right.

    Last edited by Ando; 01-09-2010 at 12:52 PM.

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  8. #8
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    I have the 235 spacer in. Is that the largest one? because it comes out pretty easy it's not snug like my carrier for my xvalve lvl10

  9. #9
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    Thanks ando, thats what I did and it fixed the leaking out the back problem. Just need to fix the other issues.

    Another question for the group my on/off top part does not look like your standard on/off top the groovs are along the top of the piece rather than having holes down the center. Could this be a problem?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatoRockwell
    Thanks ando, thats what I did and it fixed the leaking out the back problem. Just need to fix the other issues.

    Another question for the group my on/off top part does not look like your standard on/off top the groovs are along the top of the piece rather than having holes down the center. Could this be a problem?
    It looks like a castle turret correct??? Flip it over and see if that helps. I honestly can't remember which way I put it in there man... grrrr... I'm so sorry... I don't have any air here or anything to check that stuff with... damnit...

    I've got some pics in my photobucket of various types of on/off tops. There have been sooooo many different ones made that I don't know if any are any better or worse than the original.

    Let us know if that changes anything. The flat side should be at the top against the orings I'm pretty certain.

    Does it look like the one shown here that is in the middle on the bottom row ~>

    As you can see there are quite a few variations, and this is just the set of pics I've taken when I had 6 valves handy... who knows how many other variations are out there.

    DM
    Last edited by DevilMan; 01-11-2010 at 02:33 PM.

  11. #11
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    Yes, the flat part of the top faces the two orings. That top will work well. The newer top that AGD sells with all the newer classic valves is universal in that there is no way to put it in backwards.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  12. #12
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    Fixed

    Well I replaced the Regulator Piston, switched down to the smallest powertube and most importantly replaced every single oring. Some of which were so brittle they were falling apart. Shooting great now. Just need to work on getting a levelX for it.

    Thanks for the help everyone

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