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Thread: Homemade E Frame

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
    Posts
    997

    Homemade E Frame

    Since I have been married and had kids my priorities have changed (a little) and my paintball budget has reduced greatly. I have been an Automag owner since the early 90's but somehow I missed out on the whole E Mag era. I left paintball for 8 or 9 years and when I got back in to it I wanted to bring my old Mag up to speed. I went with a spyderMag mod ( I cant afford an E Mag) that worked out great for a while but here recently it has been acting up. So I decided to fabricate my own frame and use the guts and trigger out of the spyder frame. Here are the fruits of my labor:
    Last edited by Flatliner333; 01-21-2010 at 10:32 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,969
    lookin pretty good, looks like it needs a lil line work but overall looks good the main question is though does it work like you want it to?

    overall though great job

    2k2 Angel LCD
    turbo trigger
    CP volumizer
    PIPE KIT

    2k Angel CnC LCD
    Vert Frame
    Freak Barrel

    B2k x-milled
    micro rock
    Dye sticky 3's
    vertical max-flo
    Edge barrel with blue J&J tip

    Egg 2 y board
    Empire Reloader
    Dye Throttle 91/4500
    Crossfire 114ci/3000
    Angel Air Reg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    1,283
    nice work hope it work like you want it to.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    3,175
    How is your sear modded?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
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    997
    ^^^I cut the arm off the sear and welded one further back.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ga
    Posts
    80
    love the 90 frame...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Summerfield, FL
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    1,131
    Looking good!

    Except for this vvvvvvv



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Southeast VA
    Posts
    1,285
    Quote Originally Posted by secretweaponevan
    Looking good!

    Except for this vvvvvvv


    What do you mean? I thought that was absolutely hilarious!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
    Posts
    997
    What Tha ???? I didn't know people could see all my pics thats just wrong.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Londonderry, NH
    Posts
    1,326
    Quote Originally Posted by secretweaponevan
    Looking good!

    Except for this vvvvvvv


    Needs hotsauce

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
    Posts
    997

    The Videos

    Alright I have a couple of videos of this thing dry firing(I'm out of paint) and I need your help to figure out what is going on with my valve. When I rapid fire after several shots the pin gets stuck in the down position and it pukes air down the barrel. I cannot remove the valve so I have to take the body off the rail to see the pin sticking through the on/off hole in the body. Thing is the pin pushes freely back up through the hole because there is nothing keeping it from doing so at this point(like an o ring) This is what I think is happnin...My sear has a little play in it as I lost the original pin and I made another one. Do you think if there is enough side to side play with the sear the pin could be getting pinched between the sear and the on/off hole causing it to stay down??? on to the videos...And yes that is my son in the background with the Mickey Mouse ears...He likes to be the center of attention...enjoy.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    24

    Even better...

    This is even better. As a chef, I love and appreciate this...


    Please tell me you stuffed the body with cheese....

    Oh, and the frame is amazing. Ever think about making more?

  13. #13

    Talking

    the automag is a very close tolerance marker it does not work well when there is even a little play in the parts........but it is easy to fix. either make a better pin or get a new one from AGD you can also pick up a used mag and strip the parts, ebay pawn shop ect. the frame looks very good, and like any project you embark on there will be bumps in the road, as for the {other} pics you already know paintballers are a little twisted so pay no attention to those wierdos. ...........but shouldn't you cook the baby deer first?. ........and that ground meat and bacon thing, from what i can tell your just as twisted as the rest of us! good luck with the mag..............oh yeah my good friend tony shot a 250lb whitetail buck with a bow, this year..............nice buck,,,,,,,

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
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    997
    ^^^Congrats to your friend. I love to bow hunt even though I have yet to stick one. As far as the goofy pics... yes I guess you could say I am twisted and I have linked most of them either here or B.E.O for one reason or another. I am now thinking I need to get some new stiffer bolt springs. I took the rail / body / and valve off together after it leaked air and discovered that the front of the sear was wedged up in the body behind the back of the bolt. I dont think the pin is sticking down now I just think the sear is sticking behind the bolt keeping the bolt forward and causing it to puke air down the barrel. All I have are black or silver bolt springs(no Red) and they are probably just old and worn out. Do yall think new ones will fix my problem?

  15. #15

    Talking

    it's a cheap fix if it works, and shims would not be a bad try, i had a level 10 bolt put in my RT pro, with similar problems that is until the proper shims were put in, now she does not chop paint, ever, even with the cocker barrel threaded insert, works flawlessly, like i said check all of your clearances, the bolt travel is critical, for it is not desighned to slam the breach but push the paitball into the breach release the air and send it on it's way so bolt travel is very critical...........i bought automag repair kits when i didnot need them...........but now it is very hard to get them except at AGD the bolt springs do wear out and it seems differant mags preffer differant springs.........you just gotta tinker around with it till you find what your mag likes..........hope this helps

  16. #16
    What dwell are you running? If the sear is resetting before the bolt returns seems a longer dwell would be useful in preventing unnecessary wear and also help with the problem you're having in rapid fire.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    3,175
    It looked good on full auto, then hangs on semi, is that right?

    Which on/off and valve are you using there? Looked like a classic up top.

    Is your rail bushing in place (if you need one in that rail)?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
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    997
    ^^^Yes I believe it only does this in semi mode but not full auto.I bought the X Valve used. It came with the level X installed with no spare parts or springs.I am using a ULT on/off and I do have the rail bushing in place. As far as the dwell... at the moment I am using the stock CAMD board that came with the Rocking Trigger frame. The firing modes are 3 round birst , 6 round birst, full auto (13 cps) and semi. I dont know if the dwell can be adjusted and if so I dont know how.
    Question: Doesnt the on/off pin reset the sear? How would dwell affect this.
    Also I have swapped springs around and I may have had a Black spring in there off my A.I.R. valve.

  19. #19
    The on/off pin and the air pressure is what resets the sear, but it only resets after the trigger/solenoid is released. If you release the sear faster than the bolt returns the bolt hits the sear, which I'm pretty sure it's not designed to bump over the sear like a Spyder or Tippmann. You want the dwell to be long enough that the sear is held out of the way until after the bolt fully returns, from what I've read that's around 15ms.

  20. #20
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    Mar 2009
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    Beaumont,Tx.
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    Can you adjust the dwell on the stock CAMD board ...if so how?

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
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    Thanks guys for all your troubleshooting help. Turnes out the carrier that was in the X Valve was jacked up a little. Thanks also to VF-XX and elgalloblanco for the hands on help and donation of spare parts at TxBall 2010 in Houston....Last Video of this thing I promise.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs6J_iJPC_k

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    www.BigEvilOnline.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333
    Can you adjust the dwell on the stock CAMD board ...if so how?
    According to Kingman you cant,.... some guys on Spyder Forums CLAIM you can....

    I have yet to get an answer back for this question.

    ~ P8nt

    _______________________
    Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    FemNu Strip Club
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    738
    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333
    Turnes out the carrier that was in the X Valve was jacked up a little.
    i would of never thought of that and assumed that it was a sear problem
    i had the same problem with a lvlx with a hyperframe ill check the carrier now

    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333
    Last Video of this thing I promise.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs6J_iJPC_k
    nah make more....with paint!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
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    Well...let me back up here...I actually had a couple of problems. The sear was getting jammed behind the bolt and I solved this by further modifying the front of the sear . I know this sounds bad and I may incounter abnormal bolt lip wear but I tapered the front of the sear so the bolt would force it down if it happened to come in contact with it on the way back.Once I fixed that the X Valve started leaking (this was just coincidence). We fixed the leak when elgalloblanco basically rebuilt the valve with spare parts he had (THANK YOU) which included a new power tube oring, changing the carrier and putting a different bolt spring on. I have been shooting Mags for a while and I must say that after having the lvl 10 dialed in this is the most excited I have ever been to be shooting an Automag. I shot about a thousand rounds through it this weekend and did not break a single ball.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Beaumont,Tx.
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    997
    Quote Originally Posted by pump
    i would of never thought of that and assumed that it was a sear problem
    i had the same problem with a lvlx with a hyperframe ill check the carrier now


    nah make more....with paint!
    Alright if you insist

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuZj7tCphGE

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333
    get a shot of the frame too!
    well if you want



    so the sear was the problem huh?
    hey hows the LVLX resetting does it get bolt stick?

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Beaumont,Tx.
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    997
    Quote Originally Posted by pump
    get a shot of the frame too!
    well if you want



    so the sear was the problem huh?
    hey hows the LVLX resetting does it get bolt stick?
    Yes...I believe when all was said and done the top of the sear was just a little to long to allow enough space/time for the bolt to make it back before getting caught on it. I dont think the dwell can be adjusted on the stock camd board so I guess I effectively adjusted it by modifying the sear length. Also by cutting the front of the sear so it has a downward angle
    to it if the bolt does happen to hit the sear the bolt will force the front back down and glide right over it. The timing on the gun is perfect now and no ball breaks as of yet
    I posted another vid on YTube of the frame itself If you want to check it out. My next step is attempting to do a custom home anno job on the whole gun.

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    If you are using an AGD spec rail and body, the bolt should never be able to get far enough forward to allow the sear to get behind it. The top of the sear should always rest against the outer lip of the bolt if it is attempting to reset before the bolt is back (including if the bolt is fully forward). This why dwell is so critical. You want to hold the sear long enough to allow the bolt to return so that it doesn't rub on the top of the sear.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  29. #29
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    Mar 2009
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    Beaumont,Tx.
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    ^Soooo how do you set the dwell on a spyder camd board?

  30. #30
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    so then it sounds like a perfect solution for a non adjustable dwell


    and whats so bad about the sear rubbing on the bolt?

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