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Thread: RT'ing my Minimag

  1. #1
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    RT'ing my Minimag

    I am trying to RT my minimag, however it will burst about 3 or 4 shots before it chuffs and I have to pull the trigger once or twice to get it to reset properly.

    I'm running an X valve, ULT, Level 10. Velocity is 230 f/s.

    Am I short-stroking? bolt sticking? The ULT is kind of new, does it need to be worked in more? The ULT spacers are maxed out, one more and the valve wont fit anymore.I don't know, I am kind of new to mags.

    If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost
    I am trying to RT my minimag, however it will burst about 3 or 4 shots before it chuffs and I have to pull the trigger once or twice to get it to reset properly.

    I'm running an X valve, ULT, Level 10. Velocity is 230 f/s.

    Am I short-stroking? bolt sticking? The ULT is kind of new, does it need to be worked in more? The ULT spacers are maxed out, one more and the valve wont fit anymore.I don't know, I am kind of new to mags.

    If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it.
    Use a stock on/off or get yourself a adj reg that goes up to 1000+

    A little advice. If you have a double trigger frame, you'll get better results by trying to fire it with your finger further up the trigger. It's all about leverage. Placing your fingers further down the trigger and you'll actually slow the reactivity.

  3. #3
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    Awesome, thanks Ando!

    When I bought the X valve, it had an E/X mag on/off in it, which I sold because the pin was too short. Does anyone have an extra stock x valve on/off or an RT on/off? I have to order a ninja rebuild kit to up my tank pressure.

  4. #4
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    You should have kept the shorter emag on-off pin. They work great for RTing, especially if you are using the quad oring.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #5
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    I tried it, it wouldnt reset the sear, it just went full auto no matter what I tried

  6. #6
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    Ya bro. You should always keep your stock valve parts. You never know when you'll need it. You could have gotten away with the short pin if you had removed the quad and installed a regular mech oring.

    O'well. Lesson learned. You'll find on/off's being sold here on the forums or just get one from Tuna or AGD.

    I would still ck the lvl 10 for proper operation and proper tuning of the ULT just to be on the safe side.

  7. #7
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    I knew I should have kept that! haha! I'll have to play around with the ULT. My lvl10 works beautifully, but the length of the springs confuse me a little, I have the shorter gold spring in there now.

    Thanks guys, I really appreciate your input.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost
    I knew I should have kept that! haha! I'll have to play around with the ULT. My lvl10 works beautifully, but the length of the springs confuse me a little, I have the shorter gold spring in there now.

    Thanks guys, I really appreciate your input.
    have U tried the medium spring ???

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ando
    You could have gotten away with the short pin if you had removed the quad and installed a regular mech oring.
    Actually, its the quad that is needed because it has a lower contact point, effectively simulating a longer pin.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost
    Awesome, thanks Ando!

    When I bought the X valve, it had an E/X mag on/off in it, which I sold because the pin was too short. Does anyone have an extra stock x valve on/off or an RT on/off? I have to order a ninja rebuild kit to up my tank pressure.
    You know if you wait a bit, Ninja is going to release a reg that goes to 1200 psi just for us automag guys.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Actually, its the quad that is needed because it has a lower contact point, effectively simulating a longer pin.
    Really? I thought it was the other way around

    Good to re-know

    Larger the spring the softer it is on the paint.

  12. #12
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    I hope the "there is no such thing as a stupid question" applies here.. Which one is the medium spring? I'm assuming the long one that isnt red?

  13. #13
    I also have the ULT, and would rather have the stock on/off for an X valve. Let me know if you find someone looking to trade.

  14. #14
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    and all of you guys KNOW that you have to run stainless braided lines with these pressures RIGHT? Staying safe is important. Nothing else will do.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost
    I hope the "there is no such thing as a stupid question" applies here.. Which one is the medium spring? I'm assuming the long one that isnt red?
    red is the medium.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman
    and all of you guys KNOW that you have to run stainless braided lines with these pressures RIGHT? Staying safe is important. Nothing else will do.
    What pressures would you consider safe to use macro for?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by zondo
    What pressures would you consider safe to use macro for?
    Never over 800psi with generic crap, up to 1250psi with the high-quality stuff you used to be able to get from MacrolineGuy and ARC.

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    I have found higher input psi, shorter on/off pin (.725 ish) and x o-ring help RT effect. But trigger control is very important. Just a little pressure on the middle of the double trigger if key to start it bouncing.

    One thing that may be useful, be sure to chamfer all sharp edges off you on/off pin if you grind it down. It can damage the inner on/off o-ring.

    On the reality side: will I ever remember to have such nice trigger control with adrenaline pumping furiously through my body? I haven't yet. Fun effect to play with but I it goes out the window when I mash the trigger.

  20. #20
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    Question quad ???

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Actually, its the quad that is needed because it has a lower contact point, effectively simulating a longer pin.
    whats the quad oring ? whats the difference between the two ?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2BAD4U
    whats the quad oring ? whats the difference between the two ?
    The quad o-ring is used in the E-mag. They call it a 'quad' because of the x cross section. It creates a smother transition for your on/off pin by trading compression of a regular o-ring for greater surface area. Reduced friction help the RT effect. It also effectively lengthens your on/off pin about .015 inches so compensate for that if your filing your on/off pin or purchasing a new one. It does this because the point the quad o-ring seals is no longer the center as it would be in the traditional o-ring.

    Check them out here

  22. #22
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    Yes, the quad oring has four points of contact, quad referring to 4. The outer diameter has two rings of contact and the inner diameter has two. A standard oring seals at a single ring at the outer and a single ring at the inner surface which is two contact points.

  23. #23
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    Smile

    awsome guy's , thanks much 4 the info ...

  24. #24
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    Make sure you are running the gold spring. 230 is low. I dont think you can get there with the red spring.

  25. #25
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    R T'ing ...

    can the MiniMag/AutoMag valve R T ? or just the X-valve ??

  26. #26
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    Only the retro valves and the X-valves can be reactive. 68Automag, minimag, and classic valves cannot go reactive.

  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Ando
    Yeah, I'm running around 925 psi using the ASP 1000 psi rated macroline. Never had any trouble.

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by 2BAD4U
    can the MiniMag/AutoMag valve R T ? or just the X-valve ??
    Classic valves need to be modded for RT. I don't recommend.

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