You mean both of them.Originally Posted by mpsd
You mean both of them.Originally Posted by mpsd
It started as a 45/4500.... He dropped it on accident on this field... ~>Originally Posted by mpsd
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=2PKLXhh6dNk
Where do you think they got the idea from???
DM
You would need to know a fire fighter to get these bottles. They are out of date and can not be hydroed, not due to dammage but to age, but since i fill them i dont worry about it. I only fill them to about 4300 PSI
right cause the 200 extra psi would make it like a lethal rocket if something were to go wrongOriginally Posted by hill160881
2k2 Angel LCD
turbo trigger
CP volumizer
PIPE KIT
2k Angel CnC LCD
Vert Frame
Freak Barrel
B2k x-milled
micro rock
Dye sticky 3's
vertical max-flo
Edge barrel with blue J&J tip
Egg 2 y board
Empire Reloader
Dye Throttle 91/4500
Crossfire 114ci/3000
Angel Air Reg
Exactly
I think you should go with the extra 200 and see if we can't make a jet pack out of it!!!Originally Posted by hill160881
DM
Hill
You should contact Damon of scenario dreams. He made two versions of this mini gun. One the guns barrels move and the other one does not.
_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
Thanks for the info
I got board and tried this with the apx prototype stuff . At 3500 psi i am getting 2000 rounds on a 88/45. So way better efficiency than normal, 2500+ on an 88ci. I mite have an explanation but i need to confirm it is the mod i made to the power tube before i show what i did. its really simple and it also changes the sound signature.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yba5KUXJTM4
Last edited by hill160881; 02-10-2011 at 08:36 PM.
Wow..... that is sick as hell. Hill is the master of automags for sure.
Photobucket...Photobucket...
Originally Posted by Flatliner333
Sorry i forgot
Inside the grip frame. I am using two micro switches. One activates the spins the barrels, the other attached to the board activates the gun. So a slight pull on the trigger will get the barrels turning and pull it the rest of the way and activate the marker.
Last edited by hill160881; 02-13-2011 at 11:09 PM.
Got to crowed on the first page
The first peek at what it will look like and i like it.
Small update
This is the cad drawing from Lukes customs and the sketch I made
Last edited by hill160881; 04-17-2011 at 05:14 PM.
Nice!
Do you intend to do a case over the Automag, under the loader? And what about installing a loudener on the barrel's tip?
Have not decided on both, but for now im going with a 21" J&J barrel for a better look. I want to still have easy access to the valve so i may leave it open around thereOriginally Posted by mpsd
You could always install a hinge on one of the sides of the box covering the Mag to provide you that access, right? I just think it would give you better looks.Originally Posted by hill160881
I will wait for that area of the gun until i get the barrels spinning.
Dumb question...but you are going to have the main barrel as long as the others correct.
That thing sounds like a lawn mower...and pretty much does the same thing as one to.
Yes i found a 21" spyder barrel and will be cutting it down slightly. I am waiting for the adaptor then it will get the final touches. I am worried that the warp motor wont have the balls to get the barrels moving. If that is the case i will have to make a different way to turn the barrels.Originally Posted by Flatliner333
Major kudos from an old school mag shooter.
Completely awesome.
I really want one of these.
Will you publish and sell the plans or consider making more?
ThanksOriginally Posted by Sandman
I have not thought about making more, but it is possible. It has been really easy so far. Basically i just had a plan in my mind and it has been a puzzle from there. It is not even symmetrical. I dont think i even used a tape measure for most of it. All the metal was bent by hand, foot, and a hammer. I will probably put together a how to thread when im done complete with measurements and a list of materials. I wont charge for the plans though, they will just be in the form of a thread here on AO.
I can't answer FOR him... But if I know Hill at all he'll sell... and he'll make more...Originally Posted by Sandman
It's all about the $$$$$
DM
This thing cost like $600 to $700 in materials for a ruff idea of what it would cost to make.
Last edited by hill160881; 02-14-2011 at 11:25 AM.
X Valve ~> ~$200Originally Posted by hill160881
ULE Body ~> ~$100
EGO/ETek Frame ~> $??
Tadao Board ~> ~$100
Noid ~> $??
That's just a short list of some of the parts... and notice I didn't put in any time on man hours and such.
DM
X Valve ~> ~$200
ULE Body ~> ~$100
Shadow rail=$100
EGO/ETek Frame ~ $60
Tadao Board ~> ~$80
Noid ~> Mac 33-$30, SMC-$40
Ram= $30
LPR= $100
Rotor= $100
Other materials= 60
Then Time, so a bit higher than i thought
But i made a deal with the devil to aquire the parts i needed
Last edited by hill160881; 02-14-2011 at 11:53 AM.
Originally Posted by DevilManOriginally Posted by hill160881
Major props man, this is quite ridculous! I can't believe how quickly you got it put together. When I said pulling up a chair I thought I was in for a long ride, definately not a few weeks . Where would you be able to use something like this, a scenario game or something similar? Can't imagine a rec field letting you mow down noobies with this .
No gun
Thanks. I try to do my projects quickly so i dont forget a good idea.
I should be able to use it in scenario events and the random rec field that does a big attack and defend.
I can always do something stupid like turn down the rate of fire.
I am currently working on the paint job, getting the barrels to turn, and waiting for the lapco spyder barrel adapter.
Yeah I guess you could turn the ROF down, but 12bps would be sacrilegious with something like that. You should have a mini PA system or something that yells random battle cries everytime you squeeze the trigger.
"Here comes the BIG DOG!"
"Prepare to meet your maker!"
Things similar to that. Or just a maniacal laugh. MUAHAHAHA!!!!
Well back to a piece of aluminum for the 90 dagree adaptor from 1/4 pipe thread to 5/8" UNF(thread type of a tank reg). I will have to cut down one of the taps to make it into a bottoming tap, since no one around here has herd of a bottom tap, nor do they carry one.
This is the layout, 1/4 pipe thread in the side and 5/8 UNF out the end. I will remove the brass adaptors and go straight into the adaptor.
Very nice indeed. Have you thought about a sling of some kind? It would make for an easier carry. I couldn't imagine just toting it around the field for an hour.