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Thread: emag hiccups

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  1. #1

    emag hiccups

    I'm very new to mags and just bought a used emag with xmod 1.8.

    I'm overall extremely happy with the performance but I noticed if I try to shoot fast (either bursting over and over or full auto) a few seconds in the bolt won't recock or fire.

    Is this short stroking or something? I hear the "splock" sound that's similar to the lvl10 anti-chop engaging. Could it be my warp feed can't keep up?

    Thanks for all your help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    492
    I recommend check the carrier in powertube remove a shim then try. If that doesnt work put shim back and up the carrier size keep same oring. If still no change or it gets worse go back to original set-up and check your valve on off oring make sure the pin is flowing smoothly. I had a issue were the on off quad oring was getting pinched and causing bolt to act weird. Always document your start set up though for worst case you can go back to your current set-up.

    Very important!!!! test in manual mode 1st then go electric.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Tropical Life
    I recommend check the carrier in powertube remove a shim then try. If that doesnt work put shim back and up the carrier size keep same oring. If still no change or it gets worse go back to original set-up and check your valve on off oring make sure the pin is flowing smoothly. I had a issue were the on off quad oring was getting pinched and causing bolt to act weird. Always document your start set up though for worst case you can go back to your current set-up.

    Very important!!!! test in manual mode 1st then go electric.

    Thanks!

    I removed a shim and with dry-firing it seems to fire long strings without the *chok chok chok*.

    2 questions:

    1) what does removing shims do, decrease the sensitivity of the level 10 and thus ensures the bolt travels?

    2) it sounds like there is shootdown. Of course this is just dry firing, but what could cause that?

    Thanks for all your help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    492
    Glad it got better.. you might find some of your answers and better understanding of the lvl 10 here:

    http://automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

    the shim question is best answered in shim adjustments:

    1) The shims (5) control where in the forward stroke the air chamber starts venting.

    2) Shootdown-I would chrono the marker for velocity see where you are at in manual mode. Try that 1st since your predicting, then come back with for sure results .

    The sensitivity in your bolt is controlled by your powertube carrier and oring.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    560
    Quote Originally Posted by Tropical Life
    The sensitivity in your bolt is controlled by your powertube carrier and oring.
    And the main spring tension. The stiffer the spring, the harder it is for the chamber pressure to overcome the bolt and move it forward far enough too vent properly, propelling the ball. With a stiffer spring, you will have to increase the velocity adjuster to overcome the spring.

    Sometimes, this can result in far too high of a velocity. This is where spring trimming becomes handy. A general rule of thumb is to turn up your velocity until the gun fires consistently, then crank it up an extra 20 fps to where you want it.

    Oh, and JS.. Along with everything else, Oil. Mags love oil. 4 or 5 drops in the ASA.

  6. #6
    Thanks guys.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    492
    If you can shoot it in manual mode with no hold back, then its your battery. If not its your valve on/off. Make sure the valve pin is a .712 and it is not modified on the tip cause that can cause issues also.

    If you have the right tool to take the measurements of the rod go for it, this is something some what rare that someone messed with that. I say that from owning 5 emags recently and none have had that rod messed with.

    Again test in manual mode until its rips nice then go electro.

    If you have exhausted trying on what we have recommended you can always send your marker to Tunaman and get it fixed he is highly recommended here.

    I agree with all the men and boys whom have posted here with their recommendations..best of luck

  8. #8
    Thanks all, really great tips here. I'll update when I get some more air to test it out.

  9. #9


    I took a closeup on my on/off pin. It looks to be .71" give or take .005".

    Should I measure the sear and the other rod?

    What's the black weird o-ring above the on/off? Does that look normal?

    TIA

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    560
    That is your Quad o-ring, and it looks a little chewed.. If you have a replacement, change it over and see if that corrects your issue.
    Last edited by OneSelfLost; 11-13-2011 at 10:39 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,407
    That pin is a bit chewed up. It is a wonder that it functions at all. That is probably why your quad oring is chewed up.

    The pin is 0.712" which is the correct one.
    Last edited by athomas; 11-14-2011 at 04:11 PM. Reason: wrong dimension
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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