Non paintball build, toyota starlet build up(picture heavy)
Some people over here like my projects so why not post this over here.
To start off with I will try to keep any info I gather during my build here in the thread. Links and such.
I also ask for a little patients as I am new and still researching what I can find but much of this seems pretty old for this car.
Try to remember when mking suguestions I am in the USA in Ca. I envy the availability of parts and such over the big pond in Europe.
The starting goals are as such.
-get my 02 audi TT roadster sold for some cash.
-I want to get it reliable and driving first.
-new rims and tires
-Then I want to get the body work done. All rust gone and painted.
-I want it to look as stock as possible on inside.
-upgrad suspension and braking.
-After all the above is done I may consider an engine swap or a rebuild for more power.
Edit to the starting goals, as usual with me I cant go easy so its getting 200+ hp and all new driveline
Future goals are to get more power somewhere just over 100 hp. But only after i do the suspension and brakes.
So here is the starting car, got it for $750
The problem areas, and I believe most is just cosmetic work.
-The car is 30 years old with only 115,000 miles on it so it sat alot.
-The transmission howls in 4 of the 5 gears so it sat to long and the bearings rusted. Tranny is no good even though it is fully functional.
-Has a very minor misfire associated with a bad carb base gasket.
-radiator is leaking bad from the top inlet/outlet where it is soldered to the radiator.
Items ordered as of today.
-guaranteed used tranny. $350+ delivery(had it rebuilt due to non availability of a used tranny)
-clutch kit, (not the expensive one)
-radiator(not one available)
-dyna padding and matting
-All new race coil over suspension front and rear(remanufactured from used TRD parts)
-strut tower support
-camber adjusting plates
-Larger upgraded brakes.(from AE86 corolla)
Questions I have. Sorry if these are covered in the forum and I will answer them my self if I beat someone to it. Thanks to anyone who helps take some of the leg work out of it.
-What cars have denotable parts for searching purposes online? Please tell where the cars are found, America, Europe.......
AE-86 corolla. RWD Toyota Cellica
-What is a good radiator to swap for the old one, which cars specifically?
-Wheel and tire sizes that will fit without rubbing at stock hight?
This is a source for wheels that actually fit(UK SOURCE)
-Where to find stock body parts as well as after market ones like the rear spoiler?
-What engines swap with little to no trouble? Like an older 2.0 or 22r?
It looks like neither, the 4-age 16v is the best and most cost effective option for a powerful swap. They can be found for around $1500 with tranny.
-Is it worth it to try and get the power out of the origionla 4-K?
No not really.
-Good source for strut bars? Only ones you have used preferably.
-How much can the stock tranny/rearend handle power wise?
-Brakes? Any info on what people upgrade to would be great.
Get the brakes when you get the struts, they are not listed but are an additional $150
-What is the best suspension upgrade up front that will maintain stock ride hight?
AE86 front struts with coil overs.
-any aftermarket interior components made?
Not really if you want a stock look. So anything you can make fit from other vehicles.
The answer to the above questions are in the parts list
-Engine- Any 4A-GE and the 4A-GZ, they install using available parts with no cutting into the firewall, other larger engines can be used but will take more effort to install. JDM are good engines. Always get an engine with FULL harness and ECU Ebay is a good source but call the company Prior to ordering to make sure the ECU is there and for shipping quotes. You should get all new main seals and cam seals and install them while it is easy. Same for any seal that can be easily accessed. Install new water pump and thermostat.
-Overdrive pulley for the super charger, with belt- Largest size drive pulley you can get. Purchased from Technotoytuning.
-Transmission- T50 - the corolla GTS and SR5 are the T50 so both work with the GTS bell housing. http://www.woodfins.com/
- Hydraulic Clutch- Slave cylinder and resevor are from a Honda Prelude
-Bellhousing- T50 corolla GTS bell housing from Technotoytuning. It is a salvage unit from a corolla GTS.
-starter plate- corolla GTS
-Short shifter kit, 50% throw reduction- from Technotoytuning
-Clutch- Any search for a 87 corolla GTS will find the clutch you want for this swap
Exedy stage 1 modle number 16804B
Exedy stage 2 model number 16954B
-Flywheel- Any search for a 87 corolla GTS will find the flywheel you want for this swap
fidanza corolla gts 8 LB (google to find best price) http://www.fidanza.com/
-Suspension- Coil over struts, shocks, role center adjusters and camber plates, and steering knuckles- purchased from technotoytuning ( http://www.technotoytuning.com ) The struts/shocks are modified AE86 Corolla GTS units. To install them you need adaptor parts from Technotoytuning which is why I got everything from them as a set.
-Front Strut bar- purchased from technotoytuning
-AE86 complete front brakes- purchased from technotoytuning with the AE86 front strut/coilover setup. They are salvaged brakes from a corolla GTS and required for swaping to the GTS front struts. For the brakes you will need a set of GTS brake lines. Google will find the best deal on the lines.
-Front sway bar system- Adjustable lower control arms, Adjustable TC rods, adjustable tension sway bar. This kit requires all the suspension components above to be installed. (purchased from technotoytuning)
-4A-G engine mounts- purchased from technotoytuning, and a set of corolla GTS engine mounts. (google the gts mounts for source)
-Radiator- koyorad aluminum radiator for 84-87 corolla GTS, There are other all aluminum units available at half the price, but this was the one recommended by two different shops.http://www.koyorad.com/
-Water to air intercooler system. Any search for this item will locate them but you will need to make it fit so measure and order at your own risk. Get a Bosch upgrade pump as well. Here are the dimensions of the one I ordered.
- Overall size:31.5x9.5x3.5(end-tank) inch
- Core Size:24x8x2.5 inch
- Inlet and outlet sizes:3/4 (0.75) inch
- Pressure Released Cap:1.1 Bar(16Lbs)
Liquid Water to Air Intercooler:
- Overall Size:12"x12.5"x4.5"
- Core Size:10"x5"x4.5"
- Inlet + Outlet:3"
- Water feeding:0.75"
The water circulation pump is a bosch cobra magnatic drive.Purchased from lingenfelter online. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...w=&range_high=
-Rearend- AE86 corolla GTS with rebuilt TRD LSD(not SR5) with GTS brake lines for the new disk brakes. Other axles work like the Cellica and the RX7 but require shortening. They are heavy as well.
You will need other minor parts like custom drive shaft, exhaust and fuel pumps but the big ticket items are listed and I will add the smaller ones as I find out what they are.
Last edited by hill160881; 01-30-2012 at 01:49 PM.
The engine bay
The engine compartment
I have decided to swap the old engine for the supercharfed engine out of an MR2, the tranny/rearend from a AE86 corolla. This will bew a 200% power increase.
Today I ordered a new custom fit carpet for it. Ouch, 300 bucks. There were other options but i have used the company before and it is worth it. As I want this thing to have the feel of a newer car I opted for the mass backed extra heave weave. Also the dynapad and dynamat arrived. Total weight added to car is 37 lbs to achieve a totally silent ride.
Once the carpet arrives and I see it fits properly I will post a link in the first post.
Still waiting on the new suspension and brakes from technotoytuning and the tranny shop. The shop has had the car now for almost three weeks and they are close to paying for it to get towed to oakland. They said they got the parts last week, its a two hour reassembly, so if it is not done by monday afternoon things will get ugly for quality transmissions.:evil: I mean three weeks after telling me it would be 4 days. I am not a patient man and there excuse was total crap.
EditThe rear suspension arived yesterday and a family member forgot to mention.
Now these are just beasts for such a light car. hehe
There will be a pile of goodies to install soon at this rate.
This is what the new suspension looks like.
Last edited by hill160881; 01-30-2012 at 01:46 PM.
Now for some interior work. Getting started on the dynamatting and padding. I will be waiting to fully finish the interior once the new engine and tranny are in place so I get the shifter in the right place.
This is the padding and it is very nice stuff.
Now since the interior is all flat paneling it is easy to reproduce with 1/8" masonite. It is what the factory uses. I will let the upholstery shop cover them when I have the seats redone as they will have matching material.
Lay out the pieces to be copied. Mark and cut them out, then fit into place.
This will all attach with velcro for rapid removal at the races.:devious:
Need to trim and fit this side still
So now for the trunk bottom and since the old one was totally discinigrated so I have to make a new one from scratch. So out with the old scribing skills. Using several pieces of poster board I get the correct fit then trace it out on the 1/4" masonite and done. I will wait to carpet it until I get the carpet I ordered.
The Audi TT has sold and a shopping spree has commenced.
The parts list as it stands ordered and payed for.
-Engine- JDM 4A-GZE with harness and ECU, purchased from Ebay(assuming they actually ship it)165 hp. supercharged 1.6L.
-Transmission- T50 SR5 purchased from woodfin(assuming they actually have it and ship it like they say)
-Clutch- Exedy stage 2 model number 16954B purchased on Amazon
-Flywheel- Exedy chromoly lightened flywheel modle number TR01, 10.8 pounds
-Coil over struts, shocks, role center adjusters and camber plates- purchased from technotoytuning
-Front Strut bar- purchased from technotoytuning
-AE86 complete front brakes- purchased from technotoytuning
-Agze engine mounts and T50 bell housing- purchased from technotoytuning
-Replacement carpet- purchased from stockinteriors.com
-Dyna mat and pad- purchased from Amazon
Hope this list helps someone doing there own project. Simply google the terms after the "purchased from" or the model numbers I provided to find the parts.
I will be adding two upgrades to the engine to take it up another 60 wheel hp after the install. That will put it at around 220+ crank hp Still smog legal to according to the shop.
-Over drive pulley set.
Last edited by hill160881; 11-21-2011 at 06:32 AM.
Hill, have you checked out this site http://kp61.net/ think it would benefit you. Keep the pics coming though on this site also its been a fun thread.
I am stupidstuff on other forums as most of what i do is stupid. lol,,,,, you guys know what I mean. I have my build there as well and that is where I got most of my education on these cars. That place moves really slowly as this car is kinda rare. Great source of info though.
I hope to have all the goodies by middle of next week.
While we wait here is a little info I found to read up on explaining why I am opting for both water/meth injection and Nitrous.
Optimize Your Nitrous System With A Water Methanol Injection System
Recently here at AIS, two of the most asked questions by inquiring customers has been "Can I use water methanol injection with my nitrous oxide? And if so, what sort of benefits will it offer me?" Because of these inquiries, we decided to dedicate an article specifically for it to help answer and explain some of these common questions we receive concerning the use of water methanol injection with nitrous.
Can I Use Water Methanol Injection With My Nitrous Oxide?
Absolutely. Nitrous oxide injection and water methanol injection are very compatible and safe to use together. In fact, water injection is quickly becoming the most effective, economical and efficient method of optimizing the performance of both wet and dry nitrous oxide systems. Furthermore, not only can water methanol injection enhance the power producing effects of your nitrous system, it can also significantly increase engine safety and reliability at the same.
...A well needed benefit for nitrous users as we all know all to well of the harsh conditions nitrous can put engines through.
So, what sort of benefits can a water methanol injection system offer? Before we getting in to this. To better help everyone understand, let's quickly go over the basic principles and explain how nitrous oxide injection works.
How Nitrous Oxide Injection Works
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous oxide splits releasing the oxygen and nitrogen. The released oxygen helps create additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. While the released nitrogen acts to buffer and dampen the rapidly increasing cylinder pressure. Yet still, the use of nitrous oxide results in an accelerated combustion rate therefore requiring the need for reduced ignition timing. General rule of thumb is to reduce ignition timing 1 to 1-1/2 degrees per every 50 horsepower gain.
Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter cooling" effect, reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F on naturally aspirated applications. Lowering the air charge temperature coming into the intake allows for a denser air charge, therefore creating more horsepower. A general rule of thumb is for every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. For example: A 450 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 31.5 horsepower from the cooling affect alone.
Now that we have an accurate and basic understanding on how nitrous oxide works. Let begin talking about how water methanol injection can benefit a nitrous oxide system and the engine.
How Will Adding A Water Methanol Injection System To My Nitrous Oxide Injection Benefit Me?
It's no secret nitrous oxide offers big seat of the pants power with it's massive low rpm torque increases. However, do to it's instant "explosive" type power gains, one of the biggest problems associated with nitrous oxide is it's accelerated combustion rates. This leads to rapid cylinder pressure rise, resulting in substantial increased risk and occurrence of detonation. Additionally, rapid rises in cylinder pressure dramatically increase loads placed upon the internal engine components limiting their ability to make more horsepower reliably.
Follow along as we go over various benefits offered by combining a water methanol injection system with nitrous oxide injection.
Acts As An Effective Octane Enhancer - Octane is a very big and obvious factor in controlling and allowing how much nitrous, compression and timing can be safely mixed together at one time with out detonation occurring. This is particularly important when the use of higher octane fuels are not available or practical and regular premium pump gas must be used.
Together, water methanol injection serves to act as a substantial octane enhancer allowing 91-93 octane to perform like 110+ octane fuel. Methanol being a high octane fuel and burning as part of the combustion process. While water is not a burnable fuel, it is an extremely effective anti-detonant, effectively slowing down the burn rate of the fuel. Spray to much water and it will simply quench spark all together.
Slows Down & Stabilizes The Combustion Process - It's a known fact nitrous accelerates the combustion process as evident through the ignition timing retard required when using nitrous oxide. Performing much like a high octane fuel, water injection is an extremely effective octane enhancer. Thereby, slowing down the burn rate of the fuel and stabilizing the combustion process. Additionally, water also reduces combustion chamber temperatures. Thereby further stabilizing the combustion process by minimizing "hot spots" which can lead to detonation.
Slower Rise In Cylinder Pressure - By slowing down and stabilizing the combustion process. Water methanol injection is also able to help slow the rapidly rising cylinder pressure normally associated with nitrous oxide. This significantly helps reduce the risk and occurrence of detonation. Furthermore, slower rise in cylinder pressure reduces violent engine loads and improves the engines ability to make more horsepower reliably.
Reduces Combustion Chamber Temperatures - Knowing what we know about nitrous oxide, with the rapid release of oxygen and ability to burn more fuel, cylinder pressure increases dramatically, while also creating much more heat within the combustion chamber. With more heat in the cylinder and combustion chamber, the need arises to get rid of it before it starts to cause detonation of the fuel and/or before it heat soaks into all of the major components, like the heads, the block and the pistons.
An engine gets rid of its heat by transferring heat through the heads, block and pistons into the water jackets and, ultimately, into the radiator. Additionally, much of the heat is dispersed through the exhaust. Consequently, it makes logical sense by introducing something into the engine that will become part of the combustion process and can reduce heat. That "something" is water injected into an engine by an efficient water-injection unit.
Helps Cool & Protect The Tops Of The Pistons And Upper Ring - When it comes to pistons, heat is one the biggest threats. Piston manufactures are constantly working on improving piston coatings to prevent and help minimize the amount of heat transferred from the combustion chamber to the piston. Additionally, OEM manufactures of turbocharged engines are using oil squirters under the pistons of engines as another method to also reduce piston temperatures.
The use of a water methanol injection can also dramatically reduce combustion chamber temperatures as both water and methanol have a high latent heat of vaporization.
Definition of latent heat of vaporization: "latent heat" is the amount of energy in the form of heat released or absorbed by a substance during a phase.
A phase change in our case would be when water methanol changes from a liquid to a gas (steam) when it meets the heat with in the cylinder. As a result, were able to further reduce heat within the combustion chamber, in turn reduce the amount of heat transfer to the tops of the piston. Thereby cooling and protecting the top of the piston and upper ring.
Helps Eliminate And Minimize Detonation - While the released nitrogen acts to buffer and dampen the rapidly increasing cylinder pressure. Unfortunately, nitrous oxide users are still plagued with the constant threat of detonation. As a result of increased added octane, ability to slow down and stabilize the combustion process, slower rise in cylinder pressure and reduced combustion chamber temperatures, water methanol injection helps eliminate and minimize the occurrence of detonation.
Allows Users To Safely Run More Nitrous - As a result of increased added octane, slower rise in cylinder pressure, reduced combustion chamber temperatures. When water methanol injection is combined with nitrous oxide, more nitrous can safely be used, in turn more fuel can be burned, and more power is created more safely and reliably.
Allows The Use Of Little Or No Timing Retard - As a result of water injection effectiveness as an octane enhancer and it's ability to slow down and stabilize the combustion process. By adding a water methanol injection system, nitrous users are able to run little or no ignition timing retard even with large 250 shots.
Improves Engine Safety And Reliability - There is NO better product which can more effectively and economically increase octane, slow down and stabilize the combustion process, reduce cylinder pressure, reduce combustion chamber temperature and minimize and help eliminate detonation of your nitrous engine as a water methanol injection system.
Protect your motor and the investment you have in your motor while increasing horsepower all at the same time with a water methanol injection system.
Last edited by hill160881; 08-10-2012 at 09:57 PM.
So on the new ordered list i have, the nitrous system with purge kit, progressive water methane injection, And just ordered a set of 225/50 r13's for the rear with diamond racing 13x8 wheels. Also a set of flares.
I will use snaps for the flares so they can be removed for the normal daily driving tires. Also I aim to address the heavy front end by lowering the rear with the smaller diameter tires. This will also change the ratio on the ground as the tire size difference will be close to 33mm smaller.
The wheel and tires wont be here and installable until about the first of setp as the wheels wont arrive until then.
Then I plan to learn to drive. In a 1800 lb car that can now run 11s.
water/methane injection system with trunk mount tank and a small tank incase the larger one wont mount and hide. The pump is huge, haha
Only waiting on the tires, wheels and flares
Last edited by hill160881; 08-15-2012 at 04:23 PM.
Looking good. Again sorry to hear about the bad but keep up with the good. I really hate NOS but at least you have the water meth injection to keep from melting the pistons.
Nitrous is only bad if the pistons are not made for it, and you get detonations or run lean. These pistons are made same as the new ones for nitrous application. Also the power maximum for the block is somewhere around 400 hp. I wont go over 320. Also i have a gauge that tells me the fuel air mixture so I will know it if is running lean or rich, and I can adjust the fuel jet accordingly. As for detonations, well it is a knock sensor engine and will adjust the timing if it detects knock. However that is what the water meth is for, to prevent knock and allow the computer to take advantage of its 100 octane programming.
So with it being a sleeper,,,,,,,,why not nitrous? Since there was not a answer having to do with engine reliability I went and did it. Now my concern is the transmission and rear end. I am on there absolute limit with these upgrades.
Don't forget the parachute
Originally Posted by hill160881
So a small update. Still waiting on the diamond wheels! They had some stocking issues and I hope they get it handled soon.
I ordered a MegaSquirt DIYPNP ECU with blue tooth connection and ignition components to replace the old ones. Soooo......
I plan to install this new list all at once. I have ordered it all and paid for it and am just waiting on the ECU to arrive.
-Megasquirt standalone ECU
-Sniper wet 50 shot nitrous with the second stage of water/meth.
-Acer Iconia windows tablet. To run the tuning software.
-Two stage, three port water/methane injection. One 50 ccm injector prior to the charger and two 90 ccm injectors after the inter cooler. The 50 ccm injector and one 90 ccm injector will run based on boost levels and the other 90 ccm injector, the second stage, will activate only with the nitrous. All 3 injectors have a 230 ccm flow at 150 psi and 320 ccm at 200 psi and full boost with nitrous.
It arrived! I wish I had the cash for a Haltech or a FAST system!!!!
I got the main board of the ECU done but have to wait to get some info from DIY to do the jumpers to match the pin out. I must say the DIYPNP so far is not hard to assemble given the instructions are not so good beyond the basic assembly. None of the abbreviated acronyms for the board functions match the ones toyota used so this is an issue. Also I dont have a clue how to get the SC to fire or how to set the solenoid configured on the board, so.....
How it looks after just the resistors are installed. They come completely bare.
Here is the assembled unit waiting for jumpers and the case. These units come COMPLETELY unassembled. Meaning I had to solder everything. Hope I got good connections.
So very soon it will be a 14psi boosted, nitrous/water/methane breathing monster. MUAHAHAHA
Last edited by hill160881; 09-29-2012 at 10:01 AM.