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Thread: Looking at a Automag Pump for sale on Ebay

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    Thanks

    I have one more question:

    68 classic/RT/Tac One...what shoots more accurate? Do they all shoot the same given if they all had the same bolt/air valve and barrel?
    If they're shooting the same paint and at the same FPS, then they're going to be identical in accuracy. The largest variable in shooting accurately is the paint itself. Dimpled, raised seams, etc. cause differences in how it spins while in flight.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Justus
    If they're shooting the same paint and at the same FPS, then they're going to be identical in accuracy. The largest variable in shooting accurately is the paint itself. Dimpled, raised seams, etc. cause differences in how it spins while in flight.
    So other than having a different look, buying an RT over a 68 classic is not going to to make that much of a differance? I just buying into a look.

  3. #33
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    Rt and x valves also have decreased weight, capable of rt effect, and have lighter trigger pulls, though you can add the same pull to a classic.
    I personally use classic valves for all my mags, as i dont use the rt effect

  4. #34
    There are definitely some differences, but not as far as accuracy goes. The RT Pro/ReTro/Emag/X-valves are all reactive, meaning that the on/off pin pushes back against the sear, causing some force feedback on the trigger. This allows the user to "bounce" the trigger and get some massive fire rate that isn't able to be replicated by the Classic valve.

    But when you're talking about accuracy, like I said, the quality of paint is the biggest factor, followed by how consistently you can keep the velocity from shot to shot.

  5. #35
    Cool... This helps me understand things a little better.

  6. #36
    To add too pump mag that I bought a while back. It was getting lonely. I just picked up these to mags with X-valves

    This one works great!


    This one needs some love. The gun has bolt stick and the chrome finish on the ULE is pealing.
    I got a quote for $45 to have it replated.

    I can't stop myself
    Last edited by birdinator; 08-19-2012 at 06:43 PM.

  7. #37
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    You sir, have got bitten by the Mag bug. Re-read the thread to see that posters were actually mentioning this. Nice choices by the way. Z-grip AND an X-valve with the "X-Valve" lasering.

  8. #38
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    Nice buys. Regarding the flaking plating on the intelliframe, you are probably just better off finding another. If you watch closely, you can often pick up the chrome/nickel ones for $45-50 as they don't tend to be in as much demand as the black ones.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    Nice buys. Regarding the flaking plating on the intelliframe, you are probably just better off finding another. If you watch closely, you can often pick up the chrome/nickel ones for $45-50 as they don't tend to be in as much demand as the black ones.
    I have a a little pitting on the intel frame that I can get away with. Most of it is hinden under the grip.
    Its the ULE body that is flaking like crazy. I just stopped at a place this morning to show them the ULE and the final price would be $50.56 to have it nickle plated to match the rest of the gun.

    What do you guys think?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    I have a a little pitting on the intel frame that I can get away with. Most of it is hinden under the grip.
    Its the ULE body that is flaking like crazy. I just stopped at a place this morning to show them the ULE and the final price would be $50.56 to have it nickle plated to match the rest of the gun.

    What do you guys think?
    thats half ways to another ule body, or you may find someone who will trade you if they are planning on getting anno done to theirs or something...another option is if the flaking is only on the rear to get the carbon fiber mod, thats $50 to do but it looks pretty sweet, ive got that mod done on one of my mags...just post up and see if you get lucky...

  11. #41
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    I have a a little pitting on the intel frame that I can get away with. Most of it is hinden under the grip.
    Its the ULE body that is flaking like crazy. I just stopped at a place this morning to show them the ULE and the final price would be $50.56 to have it nickle plated to match the rest of the gun.

    What do you guys think?

    any pics of the flaking dood? how bad is it? nice lil collection you are starting! if you can afford it get it re plated...if you dont mind waiting to see if someone is gonna send their ULE out for and will trade you for yours, or possibly get the carbon fibur mod depending on where the flaking is, that would be the way to go?

    How are you liking you Z-Grip???

  12. #42
    Sorry, I did not get pictures of the flaking. But it was about a 1 inch square around the ball detent that was flaking. I went ahead and got it replated. By the time I pay for shipping and all that. I figured it would be cheaper to just do the plating. Turns out that I need to have the ULE nickle plated to match the rest of the hardware on my RT. It came out great and got it done in two day. The shop is around the corner from me.

    I just ordered an x-valve o-ring kit for this RT. Right now it gets bolt stick. The trigger freezes after one or two pulls. Once I de-gas the gun, the bolt resets. It also came with a ULE trigger pull kit installs. I did read that some mags should not use this kit. How do I figure out if this can or cannot work with my setup? Could the ULE be the issue?
    Last edited by birdinator; 08-27-2012 at 04:32 PM.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    Sorry, I did not get picture of the flaking. But it was about a 1 inch square around the ball detent that was flaking. I went ahead and got it replated. By the time I pay for shipping and all that. I figured it would be cheaper to just do the plating. Turns out that I need to have the ULE nickle plated to match the rest of the hardware on my RT. It came out great and got it done in two day. The shop is around the corner from me.

    I just ordered an x-valve o-ring kit for this RT. Right now it gets bolt stick. The trigger freezes after one or two pulls. Once I de-gas the gun, the bolt resets. It also came with a ULE trigger pull kit installs. I did read that some mags should not use this kit. How do I figure out if this can or cannot work with my setup? Could the ULE be the issue?
    If you are ordering extras, you may want to order a set of Level X carriers. Bolt stick is usually from having too small of a carrier. Check and see what size you have. I may have some extras i can sell you vs getting an whole kit. You can determine the size of the carrier by the rings and dots on it. It starts with a dot, then a ring and a dot, than 2 rings, then two rings and a dot etc.

  14. #44
    I got some of those with the pruchase of the RT. I will play with it tonight.
    Thanks for the info

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    I got some of those with the pruchase of the RT. I will play with it tonight.
    Thanks for the info
    Remember to remove the shims from the Level X and to keep the same oring when changing carriers. The different size carriers is to compensate for the inconsistency of the o-rings.

  16. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    Remember to remove the shims from the Level X and to keep the same oring when changing carriers. The different size carriers is to compensate for the inconsistency of the o-rings.
    Did that and the bolt stick has gone away by installed the the shortest brass shim (no lines/one dot.) But now I get a leak down the barral. Goes away when I pull and hold the trigger. Am I correct in thinking that now I need to move to the next size up of brass shim?

    One thing I noticed is that besideds the brass shim, there is also one thin metal washer like shim. I also have a few extra that came with the gun. Would I use them to solve this issue also going from one to two of these shims?

    Thanks for the help.

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    Did that and the bolt stick has gone away by installed the the shortest brass shim (no lines/one dot.) But now I get a leak down the barral. Goes away when I pull and hold the trigger. Am I correct in thinking that now I need to move to the next size up of brass shim?

    One thing I noticed is that besideds the brass shim, there is also one thin metal washer like shim. I also have a few extra that came with the gun. Would I use them to solve this issue also going from one to two of these shims?

    Thanks for the help.
    The thin metal shims are Level X shims. Take them all out and see how it does. You may have to try going back up a size with the shims out. Also remember oil is your friend.

  18. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    The thin metal shims are Level X shims. Take them all out and see how it does. You may have to try going back up a size with the shims out. Also remember oil is your friend.
    I have what looks like the same shims in the on/off assembly. Should I remove those also?

    And should I be posting this up in the tect forum?
    Last edited by birdinator; 08-29-2012 at 05:03 PM.

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    I have what looks like the same shims in the on/off assembly. Should I remove those also?

    And should I be posting this up in the tect forum?
    You shouldnt have to remove the ULT shims to tune the levelX. You should remove the detent though.

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    I have what looks like the same shims in the on/off assembly. Should I remove those also?

    And should I be posting this up in the tect forum?
    Don't mix up those shims. The lvl 10 and ULT shims are different thicknesses.

  21. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Ando
    Don't mix up those shims. The lvl 10 and ULT shims are different thicknesses.
    So I got the leak to stop and it shoot perfect. Thanks for the help.
    The only one issue I have left is that when I air up the gun, it fires once.
    How can I do a search in the tect forum too find a solution to this issue?
    Last edited by birdinator; 10-23-2012 at 05:12 PM.

  22. Quote Originally Posted by birdinator

    And should I be posting this up in the tect forum?
    Yes

    -The AO Moderation Team
    "Everything in Moderation"

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    So I got the leak to stop and it shoot perfect. Thanks for the help.
    The only one issue I have left is that when I air up the gun, it firs once.
    How can I do a seach in the tect forum too find a solution to this issue?
    my ULT does this as well... ive always been told its 'normal'

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdinator
    So I got the leak to stop and it shoot perfect. Thanks for the help.
    The only one issue I have left is that when I air up the gun, it firs once.
    How can I do a seach in the tect forum too find a solution to this issue?

    try pulling the trigger and holding it while airing up your Mag...helps to get everything seated?

  25. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs
    try pulling the trigger and holding it while airing up your Mag...helps to get everything seated?
    I will try it tonight and also look at how much play I have between the trigger and the sear pin.

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