Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Any alternative to the MPA-3 actuator?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The South Downs in Blighty
    Posts
    479

    Any alternative to the MPA-3 actuator?

    Is there an alternative to the MPA3-3 actuator? I'm looking to reposition it further down inside the grip frame to lower the operating pressure to trip the sear. The reason being, the QEV will be mounted onto the rear of the MPA-3.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    triple mag shop.
    Posts
    3,172
    Quote Originally Posted by longi
    Is there an alternative to the MPA3-3 actuator? I'm looking to reposition it further down inside the grip frame to lower the operating pressure to trip the sear. The reason being, the QEV will be mounted onto the rear of the MPA-3.
    i can make ya one.
    either outa clear acrylic or aluminum.
    or brass but thats more money$$ since it costs more.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The South Downs in Blighty
    Posts
    479
    Thats interesting, can it be made with a mount so it could be screwed directly to the intelliframe mount so it sits underneath the intellimount?

    Would also be able to make a sear extender? I'd need to sort out measurements unless your familiar with the G Force sear extender.
    Last edited by longi; 02-17-2012 at 03:05 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    triple mag shop.
    Posts
    3,172
    Quote Originally Posted by longi
    Thats interesting, can it be made with a mount so it could be screwed directly to the intelliframe mount so it sits underneath the intellimount?

    Would also be able to make a sear extender? I'd need to sort out measurements unless your familiar with the G Force sear extender.
    i dont mess with the sear.
    i make stuff round it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The South Downs in Blighty
    Posts
    479
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags
    i dont mess with the sear.
    i make stuff round it.
    No probs. I've made the extender and I've found a suitable candidate for a sleeve. All I need now is the time to do it.

  6. #6

    gforce frame

    i believe some of the gmags had a sear extender. its was like a sleeve that you epoxy around your sear

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    857
    Quote Originally Posted by river031403
    i believe some of the gmags had a sear extender. its was like a sleeve that you epoxy around your sear
    Yes I have a Gforce frame. The extender is alumimum and secures to the sear with a screw and the epoxy if needed.

    If you are looking to lower the LPR pressure needed in a pneumag here are a few tips:

    1) Use a good quality LPR. I get the best flow and trigger feel when using a AKA Lpr. The WGP Lpr's I have used in the past make bad pneutriggers and need to be ran at higher psi to over come bad flow rates which makes for stiffer pull.

    2) Use a ULT trigger on/off. It takes some work but its worth it and allows for even lower LPR pressure as the trip weight is not as high. If you tune it right you can have zero issues and a very low LPR pressure and a VERY light trigger pull.


    My Gorce frame is running on my Xvalve mag with AKA LPR and ULT and its amazing how light a pull and responsive it is.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    www.BigEvilOnline.com
    Posts
    2,494
    I had a ram made by Clippard for the EP mag kit I designed.

    It had a QEV built right into the body and was made for a direct solenoid mount.

    They were able to make a direct hose mount as well but I was not interested at the time
    _______________________
    Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The South Downs in Blighty
    Posts
    479
    Quote Originally Posted by insixdays777
    Yes I have a Gforce frame. The extender is alumimum and secures to the sear with a screw and the epoxy if needed.

    If you are looking to lower the LPR pressure needed in a pneumag here are a few tips:

    1) Use a good quality LPR. I get the best flow and trigger feel when using a AKA Lpr. The WGP Lpr's I have used in the past make bad pneutriggers and need to be ran at higher psi to over come bad flow rates which makes for stiffer pull.

    2) Use a ULT trigger on/off. It takes some work but its worth it and allows for even lower LPR pressure as the trip weight is not as high. If you tune it right you can have zero issues and a very low LPR pressure and a VERY light trigger pull.


    My Gorce frame is running on my Xvalve mag with AKA LPR and ULT and its amazing how light a pull and responsive it is.
    I had a GForce frame, it was ok but dissapointing. It fired fast enough but again the short stroking just annoyed me. Zap's Cheater is much better but still short strokes occasionally. The ULT just doesn't work for me I can't get it work correctly even if I shim it, that said if I ramp up the input pressure it works on a stock Mag but not on a Pneumag type config. I've been running a Palmer Micro Rock reg for six years now. The biggest problem with the Pneumag is the MSV1/2, there is little to no return force to reset the pin which is one of the biggest causes of short stroking, hence the sear extender idea. I think GForce were onto something with the extender idea but it was badly executed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sunny, England
    Posts
    357
    Quote Originally Posted by longi
    The biggest problem with the Pneumag is the MSV1/2, there is little to no return force to reset the pin which is one of the biggest causes of short stroking
    dosen't the magnet mod help with this??

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The South Downs in Blighty
    Posts
    479
    I haven't tried it yet. It won't eliminate it completely, at least not on mine as I can't move the actuator back far enough, not that it can go any further backwards! The ram is machined back as far as it will go into the actuator without it not working. It might help but not eliminate it. Another thing to help the problem would be to ditch the steal rod from the sear and substitute it with M3 nylon rod as it's much lighter. Anything to keep the weight of the MSV-2 lever down and the rod weight down will help. The lever on mine is cut right down and rips like wild thing, unfortunatley, it also short strokes like a wild thing too!

    So the deal is...
    1. Make a sear extender to lower the operating pressure of the MSV-2 and actuator so they operate more efficiently
    2. Move the MPA-3 lower into the frame to lower the operating pressure of the actuator to make it cycle more effectively,
    3. Make the MPA-3 moveable horizontally so it only just trips the sear hopefully making short stroking harder to do.
    4. Keep the weight of the MSV-2 lever arm as low as possible to help the pin reset quicker.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •