ule lvl 10 bolt stick

[Red Reign]

haven't been able to troubleshoot the reliability of it. seems to happen mostly under heavy fire, larger carrier leaks even with a new o-ring. its been freshly oiled twice, after i bought it a few weeks ago, and tuned the leaks and rapid fire out. once during tuning and once b4 the day of play this last weekend.

so what leads to bolt stick? am i missing something other than the carrier size and frequent oilings? tried with 2 powertube shims, and one by one up to 5 without any fix of the issue.

[Ando]

If your hopper isn't keeping up it will occur.

[Red Reign]

If your hopper isn't keeping up it will occur.

rotor. and with my std output tank, i''m not RT'ing like an automatic.

and as far as pinching and chuffing goes, i can't seem to replicate the intermittent bolt stick.

[Ando]

rotor. and with my std output tank, i''m not RT'ing like an automatic.

and as far as pinching and chuffing goes, i can't seem to replicate the intermittent bolt stick.

So it's fixed? Are you using different paint now?

[Red Reign]

not fixed, just clarifying. its an intermittent bolt stick. which should be fixable with a larger carrier, but i can't do that because i get barrel leaks from it... so yeah. looking for something i'm missing.

paint was good field paint, at .686 not sure what issue that could cause

[Red Reign]

OH! another detail, bought this used with unknown misc parts incl'd. i have two bolt springs, a silver and a gold. assuming both are L10, is it standard to have to test both in tuning? should i be testing the other to see if its stiffer and better to recock and seal?

[Ando]

OH! another detail, bought this used with unknown misc parts incl'd. i have two bolt springs, a silver and a gold. assuming both are L10, is it standard to have to test both in tuning? should i be testing the other to see if its stiffer and better to recock and seal?

Test/Tune with the gold and never use the silver as is. They are for tinkering with the lvl 10.

You tuned the bolt with no shims right?

What type of mag do you have? Classic or ULE type?

[Red Reign]

Its an rt ule custom. Just checked, already using the gold srping. And some guide I found didn't indicate to start without shims. How do I know where to stop adding shims?

[Ando]

Here you go. Easyer to link a post then type out a winded how too

This is on page 66 of this thread...
https://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43538

For your level 10 setup:
1) Remove all powertube shims. They do nothing except cause leaks when setting up your carriers. Shims do not affect how your level 10 bolt operates.
2) Use the shortest gold colored bolt spring to start. You can change to the red one later. Springs don't affect the adjustment of the carriers. The springs only affect the force of the bolt and as a side effect, the minimum velocity that you can operate the gun at. If you install a bolt spring that is too stiff, the chamber pressure/velocity setting cannot overcome the pressure to move the bolt forward and fire the gun. This is what was happening in your setup with the silver spring.
2) Install the largest carrier that does not leak when the trigger is released and the bolt is fully reset.
3) When you change carriers, always use the same white carrier oring. It's the tension of this oring that you are adjusting when you change carrier sizes.
4) Once you find the correct carrier size, your setup is good to go.
5) install the correct bolt spring for the bolt force you want your setup to operate at. For optimum operation, your gun should operate at a velocity that is about 20 feet per second above the lowest velocity that the gun starts to shoot. ie; If the gun starts to cycle at 250 fps with the gold spring, then your optimum velocity would be 270 fps for maximum antichop. The gun will operate fine at anything above that velocity setting. By going to the next larger bolt spring you could increase the minimum operating velocity to 270 fps and thus your optimum velocity to 290 fps which would be a better fit for most people. These numbers are arbitrary. Select the bolt spring that allows your setup to operate in the velocity range you want. They all differ because of different barrels and such.
6) If you so desire, install powertube shims. The adjust how far the bolt needs to travel in order to vent air and reset if the bolt encounters a jam directly in front of it. Most of the time, an object in the breach will always allow some movement and thus will allow the bolt to vent and reset. You should never need these shims. If your setup fires, or chuffs, or vents in any way, then shims will not help because changing where the bolt vents is all that shims do. They adjust in 0.01 of an inch, so 2 or three shims will be a pretty short distance adjustment. The bolt will almost always move at least that far no matter what anyway.

Hopefully this helps.

[Red Reign]

ahhh #3..... knew that, just didnt occur to me.