Would running a Palmer Stabilizer on an Automag RT equipped with a Ninja Pro SHP HPA system allow for better control of the RT trigger effect, or would it just starve the Mag for air?
Would running a Palmer Stabilizer on an Automag RT equipped with a Ninja Pro SHP HPA system allow for better control of the RT trigger effect, or would it just starve the Mag for air?
Palmer's regs where the shiznit before Ninja SHP Regs were introduced - guerrilla regs also are almost as stable
(as far as Xvalved RT shooting ropes are concerned )high volume of paint
IMH opinion ,they would keep 800 -900 psi stable with a( maxflo gen3 @ 900psi dialed in output ) with no drop off until you emptied your tank to lets say 1000 psi for arguments sake because then its equalizing of coarse
But now ,...SHP regs stabilize themselves with that shimpack design of there's as far as i can tell ! I watch the gauge & i look @ performance ,and its about as good as ive ever seen it
so the answer is,.. i would not use one with an shp ninja set-up unless its just being used as a NON- air thru forgip of coarse
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you are trying to say that you have had first hand experience running a Palmer Stabilizer on a MaxFlo gen 3 @ 900 psi output and the Palmer did not starve the marker for air.Originally Posted by NU_METAL
I agree that the SHP regs are top quality, but my interest is in dialing down the RT effect from 20+ bps to something around the 12-15 bps range for the local REC field.
Personally, I have had past experience with Palmer's products on my old semi-auto Spyder and know that they are awesome regs. I just have never had experience using them on markers with high rates of fire and was worried that they may starve the Automag RT for air since the regulator is an older design.
Don't add any additional regulators into the air line. Each one adds a restriction. There are already two, one in the valve, and one on the tank. Any slight pressure deviations from the tank will be corrected by the valve regulator, so it should be rock solid in pressure consistency.
If you want to control your reactivity, change your top on-off oring to a quad oring. Then add a shim at a time between the on-off halves to increase the reactivity that you lost. You can adjust the control by adding or removing shims. If it is always to reactive, lower the output from the tank regulator.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Wouldn't using a Palmer Stabilizer to lower the pressure into the X-Valve be the same thing as lowering the output pressure from the tank regulator?Originally Posted by athomas
If your trying to bring the ROF down to "around the 12-15 bps range for the local REC field."then
ATHOMAS is correct , the only way i know how to change the BPS / ROF is through trial & era of he on/off or ULT on/off assembly's
If you bring INPUT pressure down ( which mags do not like )The level 10 will "PREMATURELY" start to kick it ,& become Fooled into feeling a ball is not set right in the breach
Yes, but you also reduce the flow rate, which is a problem. You want to reduce the pressure without reducing the flow rate.Originally Posted by boonie282