Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: RT Pro running away

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Elgin, IL
    Posts
    229

    RT Pro running away

    I 'm having trouble with my RT Pro going into run away. It hasn't given me any problems for years and now it is running away. I have an X-Valve with LX and ULT. I don't remember the settings for the X-valve, but the ULT has 4 shims. Additionally, I'm running it with a Centerflag Products Hyperframe.

    I tried removing a couple of shims from the ULT, but then it wouldn't fire. Replaced the shims and running away. I then tried a longer bolt spring because it seems like the bolt might not be resetting and then it wouldn't fire. I increased the valve pressure and it would work a little bit.

    This marker has been in its current configuration for probably 10 years or so. I understand that the spring could have fatigued or taken a set, but I would think that it would work with a longer spring then. Additionally, I inspected the sear and it looks fine.

    Does anyone have any thought?

    Thank,
    -D
    I'm a lefty that plays with an old school RT with H/L. I bought a warp and all is right with the world.
    SocialD's feedback
    SocialD's stuff for sale
    Jaz Air Technologies barrels


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Massassachussessetts
    Posts
    3,210
    Sear?

  3. #3

    Sear

    Check your sear

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Elgin, IL
    Posts
    229
    I thought that too, but the sear looks fine.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    San Luis Obispo, CA
    Posts
    1,100
    Tank input pressure?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Elgin, IL
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by xero28
    Tank input pressure?
    It is preset about 600-650 psi

    Quote Originally Posted by Ando
    Put a mec frame on it then trouble shoot. If its been 10 years then you reg pin assy orings might have gone Tango Uniform. If they are bad then chance are the rest of your oring will be or on the verge of going.
    I considered doing that, but I had to remove the sear pin from the sear in order for it to work with the HF. I'm not sure if I still have the sear pin or if I destroyed it removing it anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    How does the lip of the bolt look where the sear catches it? Is it nice and sharp, or is it rounded? Does the sear show any wear on the top side?

    Also, is your rail bushing in place?
    The sear has a very small radius on it. I'm guessing that it would be around .005"-.010". I didn't even think about the top of the sear. I'll take a closer look at that and the bolt.


    Thanks to everyone for their help so far.

    EDIT: I was able to go back through my old posts and I actually built the marker on 10/22/2003. So, it hasn't even been nine years yet.
    Last edited by SocialD; 09-12-2012 at 01:10 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    Quote Originally Posted by SocialD
    It is preset about 600-650 psi

    Your tank output is a little low but if that's been working for ya all these years...don't fix what's not broken

    I considered doing that, but I had to remove the sear pin from the sear in order for it to work with the HF. I'm not sure if I still have the sear pin or if I destroyed it removing it anyway.
    Hmmm...If you're talking about the sear "ARM" then yes putting a mech frame on is out of the question if you don't have another. You could always manually actuate it within the frame.


    The sear has a very small radius on it. I'm guessing that it would be around .005"-.010". I didn't even think about the top of the sear. I'll take a closer look at that and the bolt.
    If you have a decent camera take pics of the sear and bolt.

    Thanks to everyone for their help so far.

    EDIT: I was able to go back through my old posts and I actually built the marker on 10/22/2003. So, it hasn't even been nine years yet.
    Even 8 year is a hell of a long time...good for you
    ...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    Put a mec frame on it then trouble shoot. If its been 10 years then you reg pin assy orings might have gone Tango Uniform. If they are bad then chance are the rest of your oring will be or on the verge of going.

    Your spring could be a contributing factor as well. 10 years is a long while but my money is on the valve pin.

    Dont bandaid the problem, full rebuild including the ULT and lvl 10 is probably in order.
    Last edited by Ando; 09-12-2012 at 02:41 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,370
    Quote Originally Posted by SocialD
    I tried removing a couple of shims from the ULT, but then it wouldn't fire. Replaced the shims and running away.
    Based on this, it probably isn't one of the orings in the regulator part of the valve. If one of the valve regulator orings was at fault, then removing the ULT shims wouldn't stop the air from leaking into the front chamber. This points to a problem at the front section of the valve.

    Quote Originally Posted by SocialD
    I then tried a longer bolt spring because it seems like the bolt might not be resetting and then it wouldn't fire. I increased the valve pressure and it would work a little bit.

    This marker has been in its current configuration for probably 10 years or so. I understand that the spring could have fatigued or taken a set, but I would think that it would work with a longer spring then. Additionally, I inspected the sear and it looks fine.
    The bolt spring does get weakened with use. Its only good for about 50000 cycles. It should be replaced after about 35000 cycles to guarantee that it will cycle and reset properly. I don't see this as a cause of the runaway issue, though. A worn spring usually only causes the gun to cough and take longer to reset.


    How does the lip of the bolt look where the sear catches it? Is it nice and sharp, or is it rounded? Does the sear show any wear on the top side?

    Also, is your rail bushing in place?
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •