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Thread: classic valve and retro valve reactivity?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    between cleveland/akron o
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    183

    classic valve and retro valve reactivity?

    ok first my mag.level 7/ retro valve/no level 10, no ULT...i will be getting the Ninja SHP Tank shortly, if i leave the marker alone, as is, will my reactivity be ok???? can i get away without the level 10 and still be ok???

    ok second question with my friends mag level7/classic valve/ ANS Bolt...he was asking if he got the Ninja SHP Tank would he get reactivity with his basics???? did i say this wrong with the level7 and ANS bolt???? he was wondering what he would have to do or stay where he is at to get reactivity...

    i know that if we both install level 10 ball breaks would be gone....thank you

  2. #2

    Reactivity

    There won't be any reactivity from the classic at all. As for the retro, it will be a matter of tuning it to be the most reactive. I believe that the ULT will not be compatible with the retro without modification, but that would probably reduce your reactivity anyways. mostly, it seems to be a matter of using the correct bolt spring/input pressure/trigger pressure to get the best reactivity. As for the LVL 10, you can definitely get reactivity from the valve without the lvl 10, in fact I have had better luck without the lvl 10 than with it. some valves will be good on paint without the lvl 10, and some won't, but i think you can change that somewhat with different spring/input pressure adjustments. There are many people on here who could tell you better, probably, but I think my 2 cents should get you pointed in the right direction, anyways

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    114
    Hey Ghost this is Kevin I played with you last weekend. Check out my recent post about Retro questions and reactivity. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=262201

    Hope it helps. Mostly it sounds like you have to adjust the on/off pin, which you can buy from tunamart.com for $8 once you get your SHP.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,444
    With a regular level 7 retro valve and a higher input pressure with good flow rate, you will increase your reactivity.

    Adding a level 10 bolt actually reduces your reactivity because it reduces the differential pressure between tank output and the front chamber.

    The ULT was also designed to reduce reactivity. Because it you can tune the ULT, you can adjust some of the reactivity back into it while reducing your trigger pull force. It requires modification on some of the older retro valves.

    The classic valve isn't reactive at all. It regulates air before it gets to the on-off top. The reduced pressure is the same as using a lower pressure tank when dealing with the reactivity. You can use a retro on-off assembly in a classic valve. It won't increase reactivity, but it will reduce the trigger pull force.

    I recommend all mags use a level 10 bolt. Never having to worry about a broken ball and the shooting inaccuracies it causes far out weights the need for reactivity.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    114
    Also check out this site for info...

    http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paint...is_needed.html

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    between cleveland/akron o
    Posts
    183
    thanks guys for the input, waiting on my tank now....

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