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Thread: Difference between frame screws

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Slovakia, Europe
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    121

    Difference between frame screws

    Hello everyone. I have a technical question about automags frame screws.
    Is there a two different long type of them? Because I have 3 mags but one (it was complet Tac-One package, bought in Netherlands, two others I build from parts) have a longer screw then others. And thats my problem, I have damaged screw hole on others bodies and a shorter one screw doesn't fit. But when I use a longer one It's ok.

    Maybe is there a difference between ULE/Tac bodies made from alluminium and classic steel bodies. It's possible, that steel bodies come with short screw and alluminium come with longer one???

    I really need answer and two longer one frame screw, here in Europe its really hard to find them


    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Duesseldorf, Germany
    Posts
    150
    There is a difference.

    From the AGD store:

    Code:
    RT Pro Bottom Bottle Screw-Acts as Front Frame Screw:
    This screw is just a shade longer than the regular front frame screw. For use with the Tac One, RT Pro, RT ULE Custom or Emag with ULE or Tac One Mainbody.
    These have the same lenght as the PE Geo/2/3 Front Frame Screw you can use too.
    You should get those at any PE Service Center.


    For the stainless bodys you would need a screw that is a little bit shorter than the screw above:

    Code:
    A steel mainbody uses the standard front frame screw. Be sure to choose the right part for your mainbody!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
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    7,198
    I found this out the hard way, do not use the longer screw on a steel mainbody

    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  4. #4
    I've seen the longer screw used where the shorter one should be used, except a small washer was also in place (effectively shortening the screw as far as the body is concerned).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
    Posts
    7,198
    Yes, I always double check by looking in the body just to be sure I'm not sticking out

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Slovakia, Europe
    Posts
    121
    Thx RST, but here we don't have any local PB shop

    Quote Originally Posted by Justus
    I've seen the longer screw used where the shorter one should be used, except a small washer was also in place (effectively shortening the screw as far as the body is concerned).
    Sure, but if you need the longer one this doesn't help

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    PHX, AZ
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    1,406
    the classic frame screw is 3/4" and the rt/ule/bottom ASA screw is 7/8"

    hope that helps!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Slovakia, Europe
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    Thx man, you are helpfull

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio
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    4,492
    Is there a reason for using the 7/8 one on ULE and TAC bodies? I just checked and I have 3/4 on nearly all of mine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    McHenry, IL
    Posts
    533
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    Is there a reason for using the 7/8 one on ULE and TAC bodies? I just checked and I have 3/4 on nearly all of mine.
    3/4" was too short and 1" was too long when I was assembling my Tac-1. I bought a few 1" screws and cut them down to 7/8".

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    4,492
    Quote Originally Posted by bbotts77
    3/4" was too short and 1" was too long when I was assembling my Tac-1. I bought a few 1" screws and cut them down to 7/8".
    Is it just for the Tac bodies? I just took apart 2 ule bodies markers one with a AM rail and one with the Gen2 tac/rtpro rail and both have 3/4 screws. Checked the ULE Emag and is has 3/4 as well. Only thing I dont have here right now is a tac body and rail..

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