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Thread: Rail mod

  1. #1

    Rail mod

    So, I recently picked up my first pumpmag. Yay! But, the tool who built it was obviously blind. The body has the newer style round pin that locates the body to the rail. Not the rectangular locator that the rail is milled for. Does anyone know right offhand how much deeper I need to mill the pocket to fit?
    My calipers are broke or I'd measure it myself. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,621
    Quote Originally Posted by dboggs79
    So, I recently picked up my first pumpmag. Yay! But, the tool who built it was obviously blind. The body has the newer style round pin that locates the body to the rail. Not the rectangular locator that the rail is milled for. Does anyone know right offhand how much deeper I need to mill the pocket to fit?
    My calipers are broke or I'd measure it myself. Thanks
    ULE bodies should fit classic rails. Is it not working?

  3. #3

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by dboggs79
    So, I recently picked up my first pumpmag. Yay! But, the tool who built it was obviously blind. The body has the newer style round pin that locates the body to the rail. Not the rectangular locator that the rail is milled for. Does anyone know right offhand how much deeper I need to mill the pocket to fit?
    My calipers are broke or I'd measure it myself. Thanks
    Do a search for PIM modification all specs should be there

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    If your body is waddling then you have an issue, if not then you're fine. The bolt will secure the body in its proper place.

    95% of the time there's no milling/drilling needed.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by zondo
    ULE bodies should fit classic rails. Is it not working?
    Its not an ule body. I believe its an old pf emag body. The pim is too long and the body isn't laying flat on the rail. I was going to just trim the pim down. But, it was modded by Luke with a stock class feed tube. Or atleast that's what I was told. I figured if i ever wanted to swap the body I could run into the same issue. Thus modifying the rail would be easier than potential multiple bodies.

  6. #6

    Talking

    It's pretty simple to mill the rail just make sure you use a machine drill bit with the flat tip. Your normal bits have a peak tip/ triangular tip a machine bit is flat


  7. #7
    Yeah, I can handle the actual machining. I was just wondering if anyone had any actual specs or dimensions to work with.

  8. #8
    Just measure length of pin on body,then transfer that measurement to your tooling bit then mark it with tape or metal marker/sharpie and drill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,371
    Quote Originally Posted by dboggs79
    Yeah, I can handle the actual machining. I was just wondering if anyone had any actual specs or dimensions to work with.
    You won't need the actual dimensions for depth. Use the bottom of the milled rail pocket as your Z = 0 value. Then, mill the pocket a tiny bit deeper than the stock depth. Pull the Z axis out and try the body to see if its deep enough. If not, go back to Z = 0 and then dial it down a bit deeper.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  10. #10

    Easy peesy

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    You won't need the actual dimensions for depth. Use the bottom of the milled rail pocket as your Z = 0 value. Then, mill the pocket a tiny bit deeper than the stock depth. Pull the Z axis out and try the body to see if its deep enough. If not, go back to Z = 0 and then dial it down a bit deeper.
    What he said easy peesy

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