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Thread: I think this will work.....

  1. #1
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    I think this will work.....

    I've posted up about this idea before I think, but wanting to get some more opinions. Once it's done, it's done. I have a Chimera that was messed up a bit that I am attempting to sleeper pneu. When I got it the bottom hold in the frame was not small enough to be properly tapped for 1/8" NPT threads. My solution/thought was to bore it out more and mill down a brass insert that I will than ask JB Welding to work their magic and weld the brass insert into place (lol). Before doing this I will flatten the bottom of the fram more to ensure a better flat sealable surface. I think this should work using a nice fat rubber o-ring. According to the specs, it has a 3960psi rating, so it should hold. I guess I could tap the hole in the bottom side of the frame for set screws if anyone things it's needed for added safety...?

    I know it will take a fair amount of JB Weld to be slathered on to make sure there are no pin holes to air to leak out of, but does anyone esle see any problems with this plan that I may have overlooked? I originally wanted to try and get some sort of milled insert that would slide into the frame from the bottom, but didn't think there was enough room due to the positiioning of bottom line screws.

    Thoughts?

    Pics:






  2. #2
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    sounds good.
    there was a brass insert that was threaded into my airwalk when i had it.
    it ended up fusing to the aluminum partly from heat and mostly from JB Weld that was put on the insert's threads.
    it worked great as filler. i ended up drilling out the brass insert and and threading it for the the lpr.

    instead of that, you could do the Mag79 idea that he has done on the triton frames, and use an insert that has a cup at the top of it that has been tthreaded for the lpr.

    but if i recall he uses heat and liquid nitrogen to seal the sleave to ensure no leaks.

    inserts:

    i have one if you want to try it, if you dont want it to be so tall you can always cut the air shaft down.

    good luck.
    Last edited by knownothingmags; 12-15-2012 at 09:28 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs
    or you could tap the hole a size bigger than 1/8" a use a reducer bushing...then you wont need JB weld? a 1/4" NPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) reducer bushing should work?

    link:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Male-x-1...item416315f2d0

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs
    or you could tap the hole a size bigger than 1/8" a use a reducer bushing...then you wont need JB weld? a 1/4" NPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) reducer bushing should work?
    I would have to measure. Not sure if there is room to tap it 1/4" and then there may be height issues? I also don't have the reducer and not wanting to run into town today.

    I would like to use the Mag79 thing, but looks like I would need more precise mashining on the frame and I don't want to send it out. I really think what I have in mind will work. I kind of would like to tap those side holes for set screws and extra insurance, but wanting to get this done today. Guess if it doesnt work, it doesnt work.

    Edit: I checked the the 1/4" reducer idea might actually work.... Might have to put it off a day or so and hand Christmas lights instead today. Might actually win some browny points with the Mrs.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    I would like to use the Mag79 thing, but looks like I would need more precise mashining on the frame and I don't want to send it out. I really think what I have in mind will work. I kind of would like to tap those side holes for set screws and extra insurance, but wanting to get this done today. Guess if it doesnt work, it doesnt work.
    yeah when Mag79
    i know he surfaces the area for sure. milling and such.
    you should do fine. i have yet to see you have a project that doesnt end up working.

    good luck.

    good lookin projects by the way.

  6. #6
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    N4R. Went and got the reducer and I don't really see it working very well. It is only threaded about 1/2 through the inside and not really sure how I would screw it in since I would have to file down hex shape on the one end. I might be able to tap it all the way through and grind on the frame some more.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN
    N4R. Went and got the reducer and I don't really see it working very well. It is only threaded about 1/2 through the inside and not really sure how I would screw it in since I would have to file down hex shape on the one end. I might be able to tap it all the way through and grind on the frame some more.

    file the edges of the reducer off, use a 1/8"NPT hex male nipple to screw the reducer into the frame...put a lil blue lock tite on the reducer first...let it sit over night, then remove the 1/8"NPT hex male nipple and you should be good to go???

  8. #8
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    just a thought...

    does the tickler thread onto the 1/8" npt fitting backside?
    what if you make a custom extension and thread it into the asa

  9. #9
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    or i could sell you my Tippmann ASA w/built in LPR then you dont have to worry about modding the frame???

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rukh013
    just a thought...

    does the tickler thread onto the 1/8" npt fitting backside?
    what if you make a custom extension and thread it into the asa
    Not following you.

  11. #11
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    to the top of the cp asa: drill and tap 1/8 npt where milled for o-ring

    to the bottom of the tickler LPR: remove the 1/8 npt fitting & nut (if possible)

    then make a custom length extension to connect the LPR housing to the asa

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rukh013
    to the top of the cp asa: drill and tap 1/8 npt where milled for o-ring

    to the bottom of the tickler LPR: remove the 1/8 npt fitting & nut (if possible)

    then make a custom length extension to connect the LPR housing to the asa
    This is similar to what I did. I drilled and tapped the ASA for 1/8" NPT and put a microline fitting in there. I also made a female fitting(of which I still have a few) for the tickler to accept 10-32 microline fittings(purchased from air soldier). I then connected the two microline fittings with (you guessed it) microline.

    I can post some pics on Tuesday. PM me if you are interested in a female 10-32 fitting for the tickler.

  13. #13
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    The asa was milled for a sleeper mod before I got it. I think tapping it for npt threads opens me up for more damage than where I am at. If I was starting from scratch I might have gone that route.

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