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Thread: Mag trouble

  1. #1

    Mag trouble

    Bought my first mag air it up pulled the trigger and nothing. Pulled the tigger and nothing again. I was like great I just got screwed then the gun just started shooting on its own. Anyone have any ideas on where I should start? Has x valve with level 10. The gun will not fire if you pull the trigger, but will sometimes fire automatic upon release.

    Or should I ask for a refund.

    I do not have any mag parts shims ext or add or on/odd or switch out. To see if others work.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Central Ohio
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    400
    where did you buy it from? You will most likely need an automag parts kit. You should probably purchase one of those. Try adjusting the velocity some and see if that works.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
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    4,146
    Few things first.

    -You need a HP tank to run a mag. Need at least 800 psi. The marker will sometimes shoot with less but 800+ is what you really need/want

    -Pull the valve out and oil each part individually. Mainly your on/off, lvl 10 oring and valve pin assy.

    -With the barrel off, pull the hose off the QD at the valve, add about 4-5 drops of oil in the fitting, reinstall hose, air it up and fire it about 10 times.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    Do what Ando suggests for now. It will help moisten the orings and get them moving properly. Quite often, mags just need to be properly tuned. You will need an X-valve tune-up/parts kit. If you have no extra bolt springs, get some of those too. They are needed to properly tune your level 10 and they do wear out as well.

    If the valve is used, change all the orings so you know you are starting with fresh genuine AGD orings. If the valve is new, then the orings should be fine and may just need to be moistened with a light synthetic oil.

    When you do get your parts kit, tune the level 10 carrier size:

    - Remove all the shims from the powertube. You won't be needing them.
    - install the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak with the white carrier oring you are using. Always use the same oing in each carrier that you install. Its the oring inner diameter that you are adjusting with the carrier sizes.

    Tune the antichop:

    - Install the middle red bolt spring. If you can only get the gold and silver springs, use a silver spring.

    (Start here)
    - starting with the velocity all the way off, turn up the velocity until the gun fires. Measure the velocity.
    - Adjust the velocity about 20fps higher. This is your optimum velocity for anti-chop and consistent operation.
    - If the velocity is too high for you, cut a coil off one end of the silver spring.
    - install the cut end of the spring against the bolt
    - go back to "Start here" and check your velocity again.
    - once you get the velocity you want, the gun will be tuned for optimum antichop and consistent operation.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #5
    ok now I have it firing with no shims and all and it will only fire when i pull the trigger but when it does fire it will only shoot full auto

    any ideas on this

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
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    4,146
    Make sure you have all your on/off orings installed. The on/off consists of 17 through 23. If you have a ULT in place of the on/off, pull all the shims out but say 2.

    Your on/off is more likely your issue. Wear on the sear (not shown), the bolt (16 and 2), main spring (1 and 15) or a very small leak at the valve pin assy (30) can cause it too.

    If you don't have a parts kit. I would highly suggest getting one. If you have a lvl 7 bolt, go for a RT kit, if you have a lvl 10 installed, get a Xvalve kit.
    Last edited by Ando; 12-14-2012 at 08:35 AM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Ando
    Make sure you have all your on/off orings installed. The on/off consists of 17 through 23. If you have a ULT in place of the on/off, pull all the shims out but say 2.

    Your on/off is more likely your issue. Wear on the sear (not shown), the bolt (16 and 2), main spring (1 and 15) or a very small leak at the valve pin assy (30) can cause it too.

    If you don't have a parts kit. I would highly suggest getting one. If you have a lvl 7 bolt, go for a RT kit, if you have a lvl 10 installed, get a Xvalve kit.
    http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...xplodedff7.gif

    All the o rings are there and non are cracked, worn or dirty. I have a level 10. With ult on/off and took all the shims out and it is still doing it


    Thanks for all the help guys
    Last edited by AO Moderation Team; 12-29-2012 at 01:12 AM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Chowser2
    All the o rings are there and non are cracked, worn or dirty. I have a level 10. With ult on/off and took all the shims out and it is still doing it


    Thanks for all the help guys
    It came with. Ult should I just buy a rt on/off and see if that fixes it

  9. #9
    I also decided to try out this guys "tuned" level 10 bolt the bolt stops but does not reset. Do I just need a stronger spring. Can I buy a single spring or do I have to buy a whole new kit

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
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    4,146
    If you have a decent camera. Phone camera should work. Take a pic of your sear and bolt.

  11. #11
    Thanks so much for all the help I will be back home in a week or so and I will post a pick ASAP. Soon if I can get my wife to take one

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    7,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Chowser2
    I also decided to try out this guys "tuned" level 10 bolt the bolt stops but does not reset. Do I just need a stronger spring. Can I buy a single spring or do I have to buy a whole new kit
    Does it vent when it stops? If it fires, chuffs, vents, etc. when you fire the gun and it stops on a blockage, then the problem is bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    The full auto problem is most likely a problem due to a bad oring in your ULT, usually the small one on the top. If not, check for a blemish on the large section of your on-off pin. The sear can cause issues as well, if the tip is worn where it catches the bolt, or if the bolt lip is excessively worn.

  14. #14




    it does vent i guess i will have to buy new carriers

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
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    Its hard to tell without seeing the face of the sear where it catches the bolt, but it looks fine at first glance.

    The level 10 not resetting is usually the carriers, but if you are having ULT problems, the full auto issue due to air getting past the oirngs can cause reset issues as well when using a level 10 bolt.

    You should probably get an oring kit and replace all orings. That way you will know that the everything in the valve is fresh, so any issues can be resolved by looking elsewhere. The ULT orings are separate from the X-valve kit. You should replace these as well.

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