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Thread: RT Pro Weight

  1. #1
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    RT Pro Weight

    Hey everyone, I have a more or less stock RT Pro, other than having a ULE body and a Intelliframe what can I do to lighten it up a bit. I am going to have the rail milled out.. Is there any milling to be done to the intelliframe? I am not in the market to get an x valve which I know would be a nice bit of weight savings but I have other things to pay for at the moment. Thanks.


    E-Mag, RT Pro, Dye Reflex Autococker AO Feedback

  2. #2
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    Pic of exactly what you are starting with will help.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Mobius V View Post
    Hey everyone, I have a more or less stock RT Pro, other than having a ULE body and a Intelliframe what can I do to lighten it up a bit. I am going to have the rail milled out.. Is there any milling to be done to the intelliframe? I am not in the market to get an x valve which I know would be a nice bit of weight savings but I have other things to pay for at the moment. Thanks.
    barrel is always big help for getting the weight down

  4. #4
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    I run a freak aluminum back and tip so I know theres not much more weight savings to be had from my barrel.

  5. #5
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    Here I am with it if you can see it..

  6. #6
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    You can have the rail and Intelli milled out to lose weight. You can also change the forgrip to something smaller and lighter after you get the rail milled. After that you are looking at an X valve. Mabey try a shorter barrel tip or a CF tip if you like them.

  7. #7
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    A carbon fiber fore-grip will lose some weight for you.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  8. #8
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    Besides the valve, the weight hogs on your set up are definitely the fore grip/bracket and the rail. Honestly, I would sell the rail you have and look into getting one of Lukes rails. Most are considerably lighter than the stock one and by the time you spend the money ULE milling the one you have, you would probably be 1/2 way there cost wise. That front bracket is SS. Eliminating it and bolting the foregrip directly to the rail would help. A CF foregrip would be about your lightest choice. Also a Deadly wind freak bored carbon fiber barrel would be considerably lighter as well. Keep in mind you can sell the parts you are removing and get a decent amount for them to help keep your costs down.

  9. #9
    Prolly biggest thing ya can do for a noticeable difference would be get a lighter hopper (Like a pinokio or Emprie Z2). Other than that ya could get a lighter barrel (Deadly Winds makes freak bored carbone fibur barrels) and a smaller tank (hard cause mags like there AIR).

    That being said i personally feel the best thing is to balance your gun out. Idealy i like the gun to ballence out on the back of the grip frame. So i mess with a few things to achive this. This has the effect of making the gun at least to me feel lighter.

    Personally i run a similare setup only mines a AM/MM rail and just a Lapco barrel and a X-Valve. I run a Ninja Dura 77ci tank and a Z2 hopper. It balances out great points well and does not feel weighty at all i love it.
    AGD 68 Automag, AGD RT ULE Custom, DP E1, Tiberius T8.1, Tippmann A5, Pro/Carbine, & SL-68II, Sheridan PGP2

  10. #10
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    drink some more milk...haha...just kidding! CF barrels, CF body mod, CF fore grip, send the intelli frame and rail to luke to get them ULE milled, get a X-valve??? but i know milk is on sale rite now so thats the cheapest....haha!!!

  11. #11
    as stated you are primarily looking valve and barrel for cutting some oz off. Do you normally play at splat ball in rogers? i just saw pic and went thats looks familiar.

  12. #12
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    I bought a Luke's ULE milled intelliframe last week with some other parts from a BST. When I pulled it out of the wrapping, I stood there tapping it to be sure it was aluminum. It was so light and hollow that for a second I thought someone had made plastic copy of an intelliframe. I'll ruin the effect by putting a classic valve on top, but the rest of it will be very light.

  13. #13
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    i'd change the reg to an Apocalypse(the SS one, not the 2K version), put on a site rail, find a SS freak back and switch to a Halo. oh you wanted to take weight off, not put it on...

    seriously, carbon fiber is your best bet. the rail, valve and foregrip are the only places where you can shed weight at, unless you hog out the frame and even cut up on the body.

  14. #14
    It winds up being somewhat expensive to lighten up a mag after the fact. Makes it worth your while to do your homework up front and make decisions early on.

    There is significant weight in the rail -- milling it will help, at significant expense. I'd be curious to know how much milling + anodizing your rail is going to end up costing you.

    There is significant weight in the intelliframe (which is NOT light) -- milling it will help, at significant expense. You can just switch to a carbon gripframe, which is cheap.

    The foregrip also has some weight; see if you can ditch the steel extender and screw a grip right into the rail itself.

    The valve also has weight, but there's not much you can do about that at reasonable cost.

    That SP freak barrel is also comparatively heavy, but the lighter options are not cheap either.
    "Accuracy by aiming."


    Definitely not on the A-Team.

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