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Thread: RT classic on/off

  1. #1
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    RT classic on/off

    I have been trying to troubleshoot my RT for a while and have replaced a few parts but it still is not working properly. it never quite fires properly. Just inquiring if this on/off looks normal for a RT classic, 6 pictures in an album

    http://imgur.com/a/uHcnM
    Chris aka. Yudanja

  2. #2
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    Its a little dinged up o the bottom, but it is an RT on-off assembly.

    What are the symptoms of your problem.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  3. #3
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    I don't know right this second, I was just checking since I thought that might be the suspect. I have not aired it up in a while but when I did it would fire it would sputter a bit and chop paint until it stopped, I assume bolt stick. I will get air and test it out tomorrow.

  4. #4
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    Did you get it fixed? I've been out of the game for a long while. First time I aired up my classic RT it did the same thing. Pulled the valve and the bumper behind my bolt had basically turned to gum over the years. Replaced the bumper. Cleaned the bolt. and no sticky bolt firing.

  5. #5
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    yeah the on/off pin look a lil dinged up?

  6. #6
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    I have not. I have replaced all the orings from the RT parts kit but no luck. I contacted Tuna to send it away but not sure if I am willing to spend nearly $100 to get it fixed. I am really just thinking I might sell it as is to fund other projects.

    I dont have a shop here in austin but if I did, i doubt they would know much about mags.

    **Edit: given that the on/off is dinged up. would a new one be a good idea?
    Last edited by Yudanja; 02-16-2013 at 10:27 AM.

  7. #7
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    as well, here is a video of my issue. Sorry for the vertical video, I failed...no excuses.


    http://youtu.be/0KPn-pdiwOs

  8. #8
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    Shouldn't that on/off pin be longer and have o-ring at the top?

  9. #9
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    Your on/off pin is too short. You need a new one that is 0.750"

    The pin should be sticking out of one side of your on/off assembly when you push it all the way in, like this:



    The gun will not work until you get a new pin, mine actually just snapped in half and I got a new one from tuna for like 10 bucks or something like that.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    Shouldn't that on/off pin be longer and have o-ring at the top?
    I'm guessing the O-ring is probably inside his valve body, mine always stays in there when I pull the on/off assembly out. And yeah the on/off pin should be longer.

  11. #11
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    I do have a oring inside. I was thinking it might be the on off. I will check with Tuna, thanks!

  12. #12
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    An on-off pin that is too short will allow the gun to fire, but not reset. Not firing is not a symptom of a pin that is too short.

    Not firing is always a symptom of not enough air pressure in the chamber. This can be caused by the velocity not being turned up far enough, excessive bolt stick due to a level 10 carrier that is too tight (not a problem with a level 7 bolt), the trigger rod is too long not allowing the on-off pin to clear the on-off top oring, an on-off pin that is not short enough to clear the top oring when the trigger is forward, or not enough air pressure coming from the tank regulator.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    An on-off pin that is too short will allow the gun to fire, but not reset. Not firing is not a symptom of a pin that is too short.

    Not firing is always a symptom of not enough air pressure in the chamber. This can be caused by the velocity not being turned up far enough, excessive bolt stick due to a level 10 carrier that is too tight (not a problem with a level 7 bolt), the trigger rod is too long not allowing the on-off pin to clear the on-off top oring, an on-off pin that is not short enough to clear the top oring when the trigger is forward, or not enough air pressure coming from the tank regulator.
    My RT had the "not firing" issue as well and I fixed it by adjusting the trigger rod.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninja3454 View Post
    My RT had the "not firing" issue as well and I fixed it by adjusting the trigger rod.
    Precisely. Yours was a result of the rod being too long and the trigger not allowing the sear to come far enough forward to release the on-off, or not long enough to allow the sear to release the bolt. Either one will prevent the gun from firing.

  15. #15
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    tad more help please.

    I installed the .750 pin. I gassed it up but had a slow leak from velocity area. I turned it up until it fired, leak getting worse and worse until it...well best way to describe is to say it had a "machine gun leak" from the back. it was loud and super fast. I took it all apart and replaced orings, same issue. I had a leak down the barrel too, but I put level 10 in a while ago and have not touched it at all. I did notice, a white plastic bit in the reg valve pin assembly that was broken. not sure how much that matters.

    P.S. Are buna orings ok to use in the marker?

    P.P.S. I am either going to sell the parts since the marker as a whole seems to be possessed OR send it to tuna. I am torn about spending more money to try to get it working though.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yudanja View Post
    tad more help please.

    I installed the .750 pin. I gassed it up but had a slow leak from velocity area. I turned it up until it fired, leak getting worse and worse until it...well best way to describe is to say it had a "machine gun leak" from the back. it was loud and super fast. I took it all apart and replaced orings, same issue. I had a leak down the barrel too, but I put level 10 in a while ago and have not touched it at all. I did notice, a white plastic bit in the reg valve pin assembly that was broken. not sure how much that matters.

    P.S. Are buna orings ok to use in the marker?

    P.P.S. I am either going to sell the parts since the marker as a whole seems to be possessed OR send it to tuna. I am torn about spending more money to try to get it working though.
    My RT classic has a similar issue when i got it (sat in a closet for 7 years or so). I replaced the Regulator Piston (under the velocity adjuster) and it cleared the issue up. There is a regulator seat inside the piston that can/will ware out over time.

  17. #17
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    I replaced it. happens with both the original and new one.

    I tried following http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfcnqeIznLQ and messed up one of the pistons.


    Thanks for all the help guys, I am just going to sell it off.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yudanja View Post
    I did notice, a white plastic bit in the reg valve pin assembly that was broken. not sure how much that matters.
    That is a plastic split washer that is used as a spacer for the two orings.


    I would have said it was your it sounded like your regulator piston was a low pressure version, except for the machine gun leak sound that sundenly appeared. That is more indicative of a piece of dirt that got caught in the regulator seat oring or other oring that can allow air to get from the input to the chamber. A piece of dirt or a burr on an oring sealing surface can cause the leaking out the back due to over-pressure.

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