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Thread: classic RT sear question

  1. #1

    classic RT sear question

    I am trying to ressurect a classic RT that has been sitting unused for about 12 years. Thought I lost it in a move, but found it this winter. The sear is chipped on the bolt catch, see picture if I can get them to upload. I believe it is a carbide tip. I am looking to replace the sear and came across one for a RT Pro. I have read mixed answers on here, just wondering if this will work for the classic. Some have said no, some have said just adjust the rod. None of the sears I find have the carbide tip, so I'm assuming AGD has moved away from them. ( been out of the game for a while...)
    Thanks in advance for any help!

    sear1.jpgsear2.jpg

  2. #2
    I believe you are correct. I think the original sears had the , what I call, "brazed" sears. I've never seen one that wasn't an original. I think they figured out they wouldn't hold up due to being brittle. I've currently got one in the same condition, and its about to get replaced with a RT Pro sear.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dboggs79 View Post
    I believe you are correct. I think the original sears had the , what I call, "brazed" sears. I've never seen one that wasn't an original. I think they figured out they wouldn't hold up due to being brittle. I've currently got one in the same condition, and its about to get replaced with a RT Pro sear.
    Great! Let me know if the RT Pro sear does, or doesn't work. Would love to use it, don't want to spend too much money as I am (probably) going to sell this when I get it up and running.

  4. #4
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    Yes, the RTPro sear is what you need. The type you have were discontinued because they did what yours does or in the case of the one I had, the carbide piece actually just seperates from the main sear. You will have to most likely adjust the sear rod to the proper length. If you buy a new one, contact Tuna or AGD directly and they have them preadjusted.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Yes, the RTPro sear is what you need. The type you have were discontinued because they did what yours does or in the case of the one I had, the carbide piece actually just seperates from the main sear. You will have to most likely adjust the sear rod to the proper length. If you buy a new one, contact Tuna or AGD directly and they have them preadjusted.
    Thanks for the input. Can I just match the length to my current sear (the broken one?)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdn137 View Post
    Thanks for the input. Can I just match the length to my current sear (the broken one?)
    That would make sense. I think there is a sticky somewhere around here as well with tolerances in it.

  7. #7
    The RT Pro sear came, and it looks exactly like the RT Classic sear that I removed, except for the little grommet/ roller bearing in the Classic sear. Is that bearing removable? Without it the new sear wobbles too much on the trigger fulcrum pin. Any advice greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.

    EDIT: It looks like the new sears have a bushing instead of a roller bearing, but unfortunately the one I bought did not come with this part. I checked AGD's website and a few others, not seeing this bushing for sale by itself...
    Last edited by sdn137; 02-16-2013 at 03:15 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    It sounds like you received a AM/MM sear instead of a retro/RT sear. The retro sears all come with the brass bushing pre-installed and are considered a single unit for purchase. They are not separate parts.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  9. #9
    Thanks for the reply. I ordered it from ANS, and the picture on the site definitely has the bushing. I left a message, but will most likely have to wait until Monday to talk to anyone.

  10. #10
    It sounds like that's what happened, they sent me the wrong part. To their credit, though, they are being great about getting the right one here. Thanks to all for the help.

  11. #11
    Thanks for everyone's input. I adjusted the new sear rod (RT Pro)to same length as the old rod (RT Classic.) I am still getting gas leakage, but it stops when I hold the trigger. I replaced every o-ring in the valve, just wondering if this could be a sear adjustment problem. Also, I used to have to pull the trigger to get the valve assembly to come out the back, but now it just pulls out. I think it is supposed to catch on something...

    All ideas and help appreciated.

  12. #12
    Sounds like a stuck on off pin... just clean it real good and lube the crap out of it when putting it together. Air it up and shoot it 20-30 times..

    Edit: to.elaborate further on what's happening, when the gun is aired up the on off pin comes down out of the assembly. If its stuck or binding it will stay up and leak air. When you air down you pull the trigger that last time to push the pin back in the on off assembly, and allow you to take the valve out
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-01-2013 at 02:42 PM.

  13. #13
    Thanks a lot. I did find some debris where the top on-off o-ring sits, hopefully cleaning that out and adding a little lube will help. Any reason to think the sear rod needs adjusting? The gun cycled, just very slowly and with a substantial leak.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    If it fires and then leaks when sitting at rest, it is usually an indication that your powertube spacer is too long. If you put a shorter one in, it will allow the powertube oring to move forward and seal against the back of the bolt stem.

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