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Thread: RT Pro valve

  1. #1

    RT Pro valve ***now a problems thread***

    I know this is silly, but I got a Pro valve sold as is in the f/s section for a good deal. It has a lvl 10 installed, but no spare parts/kit pieces/bolt spring... I was wondering if for the time being I can use my spare lvl 7 power tube parts and the bolt and spring from my classic to get this up and running for free, then down the road get the parts I need for the lvl 10 to be able to tune it??

    I know, its taking a step back, but taking a step forward from my classic valve. I've just spent lots o money on my mag the last month or so and would just like to get my pneu kit installed with this faster recharging valve ASAP, then worry about the lvl 10 later.

    I searched and came up with just key words in posts, I never found anything about cross compatability with power tube/ bolt parts

    Thanks all!

    I could also accept donations for a couple shims or a bolt spring I kid, I kid... but seriously.
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-05-2013 at 02:16 PM.

  2. #2
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    Yes you can switch back to level7. However just because a valve has sat for some time doesn't mean it will have to be retuned. Get the valve, air it up and see what it does before worrying about tuning. Don't look for problems where there aren't any.

  3. #3
    I was planning on doing that, but just wanted to see if id have any other options. It doesn't come with a bolt spring, so I still have to get that. But I'm assuming I can't use my spare classic spring? Its probably too stiff right?

    I'm making my, I know nothing about level 10 face... haha

    EDIT: Ok so I did a little parts search, as a maintenance thing/crap happens I was planning on getting a parts kit, it shows it comes with shims and carrier o rings etc for the level 10, assuming the correct size carrier is already in it id just need that and a bolt spring, right?
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 02-21-2013 at 01:01 PM.

  4. #4
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    I thougf you bought Geoffnj's which said it came with a spring. Either way I believe the classic spring will work as long as its not worn out. Springs are consumables so picking up an extra is a good idea. She really shouldn't be needed. Having o-rings around is always a good idea. If you are already buying something consider picking up the carriers smaller and larger than what is currently on the level 10.

  5. #5
    When pming him he stated it was sold as pictured and had no extra level 10 parts or spring. He said the level 10 was installed so I'm set up with what's in it, one carrier, one maybe two shims, and a bolt. So if anything I guess id just need the parts kit and a spring... hopefully I don't need a carrier, because I guess ill just order the parts now that I know ill need and get them probably at the same time.

    At least I got it on a good enough deal to still be ahead of what they go for normally, plus having a full parts kit.

    Guess ill pony up some more dough! I'm done though, haha PayPal is getting shut down after this!!!!

    Thanks opbn, I'm sure ill have more ??? Once I get all my stuff. Nothing like taking on a pneumag project with an untested valve, haha.

  6. #6
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    Ok. In post #10 he said the spring was included, maybe he couldnt find it. Either way, good luck with your project.

  7. #7
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    just use the spring from your classic valve...test out the RT Pro valve and see what you need to order? might wanna add a thumb screw to your list...since the mag bug bit you im pretty sure you will be building another mag soon...haha

    X-valve parts kit, thumb screw, a extra on/off pin...shorter than .750 for testing or just in case, extra o-rings are always a good thing, and lvl 10 carriers #2, #1.5, #1, #.5, and #0 and you should be set for awhile?

  8. #8
    Hahaha DANG IT! I KNEW I forgot something! The thumb screw!!! I browsed that site for like 40 minutes and forgot it... oh well, good thing I have a trade lined up for a PF body and thumb screw But really, I do need one.

    Thanks for the advice on the parts, I plan on getting it aired up and seeing what she does. Since its ok to use the classic spring I'll have a couple to mess with and hopefully get it right with minimal headache... same is said about the pneu kit, lol

    But I believe I got bit by the bug when I was a mere boy, it just itches again

    And yes, I will probably birth another mag out of this whole ordeal... just straight up classic everything though, probably keep it "pistol size", no vert grip, short barrel. Reliable, cheap, effective.

    Thanks again all!!!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    just use the spring from your classic valve...test out the RT Pro valve and see what you need to order? might wanna add a thumb screw to your list...since the mag bug bit you im pretty sure you will be building another mag soon...haha

    X-valve parts kit, thumb screw, a extra on/off pin...shorter than .750 for testing or just in case, extra o-rings are always a good thing, and lvl 10 carriers #2, #1.5, #1, #.5, and #0 and you should be set for awhile?
    What specifically do you mean for testing or just in case? What is the significance of going shorter than .750? I'm still learning about mags. Thanks

  10. #10
    I think the use of a shorter pin is to get a difference in reactivity?? Am I way off? Ill be using a pneu setup so that's out the window anyway. I just want to have the faster recharge and honestly... Polish the crap out of it

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Ritual View Post
    What specifically do you mean for testing or just in case? What is the significance of going shorter than .750? I'm still learning about mags. Thanks
    ooops sorry about that man...the difference in on/pins can affect the reactivity of the valve. a stock RT Pro valve usually has a .750 on/off pin, while a E-Mag on/off pin is .712, and there a various other size pins you can order from Tunamart.com or airgundesigns.com to test/tune/hot rod your Mag! its definitely something to research on your own as your learning about mags as well as asking questions. pretty much everything you would have a question about can be found in the tech forum if you go back to the first thread and read them. not to mention you learn alot of other things...most important...that the members here love their mags and are very willing to help a new Maggot...but its kool to see a new Maggot research at least the basics on their own?

    hope that helps dood?

    OH YEAH... WELCOME TO AO!!!!

  12. #12
    Thanks! I've got an early 1 star air valve (before they started putting "classic" on the valve) that came with the early on offs. I picked up a nos reactor on off and it seems to have lightened the pull a bit. I like the older valves and don't see a need for an xvalve with ule trigger if I can just optimize my classic on off.

    Im looking for the lightest possible pull with my benchmark single trigger. Dont need walkability or high rof. Think a ule trigger in a classic would make a dramatic difference over my reactor on off?

  13. #13
    Most likely will not work due to the operating pressure of the classic valve.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Most likely will not work due to the operating pressure of the classic valve.
    Thanks for the heads up. Ive been scouring the forums and people have mixed results using the ule trigger kit in a classic valve. Some have reported using shims to make it work, but most complain about shortstroking on a classic valve with ule. I hope to hunt down a galactic systems z valve on off eventually, but the reactor seems good enough for now.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Ritual View Post
    Thanks for the heads up. Ive been scouring the forums and people have mixed results using the ule trigger kit in a classic valve. Some have reported using shims to make it work, but most complain about shortstroking on a classic valve with ule. I hope to hunt down a galactic systems z valve on off eventually, but the reactor seems good enough for now.
    i really liked the trigger pull with a single trigger benchmark frame and the reactor on/off. no matter what you will always get mixed reviews on Mag parts...were friggin Krazy and Picky paintballers...haha! just kidding! if you like the reactor on/off then you should be set, you can also use a RT on/off to lighten the trigger pull...i honestly couldnt tell the difference between the RT on/off and a Reactor on/off on my MiniMag?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Ritual View Post
    Thanks! I've got an early 1 star air valve (before they started putting "classic" on the valve) that came with the early on offs. I picked up a nos reactor on off and it seems to have lightened the pull a bit. I like the older valves and don't see a need for an xvalve with ule trigger if I can just optimize my classic on off.

    Im looking for the lightest possible pull with my benchmark single trigger. Dont need walkability or high rof. Think a ule trigger in a classic would make a dramatic difference over my reactor on off?
    any pics of your mag?

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    any pics of your mag?
    This came with the original 1 star air valve sn cf16957. It still had the original style on off top with the small grooves.



    old on/off-since replaced with reactor on/off

  18. #18
    Nice ^^^

    Im about to be the owner of a polished Emag P/F body as well

    AND Im getting a field strip screw with it!





    LOL

  19. #19
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    The reactor retro on-off does essentially the same thing as the retro on-off except the retro parts are machined to more strict tolerances so you are less likely to have issues.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  20. #20
    Holy crap!

    Just got the pneu kit set up... came in the mail yesterday and I got it after work (11pm). After all the careful prep to my frame waiting for it, it went together in less than 30 minutes. It took me longer to get the trigger set screws worked out perfectly than it did to put it together... And it RIPS! even with the Classic valve

    Cant wait to get this valve in it!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Holy crap!

    Just got the pneu kit set up... came in the mail yesterday and I got it after work (11pm). After all the careful prep to my frame waiting for it, it went together in less than 30 minutes. It took me longer to get the trigger set screws worked out perfectly than it did to put it together... And it RIPS! even with the Classic valve

    Cant wait to get this valve in it!
    haha..i bet ur neighbors were happy

    congrats dood...pneumags are Sa WeeT huh? glad ya got her ripping!

  22. #22
    Hahaha^^^^

    I actually took the frame off and plugged my macro hole and just worked on the pneus that night, put the frame on @ 10 the next morning and shot it a few times (1500psi worth) off my balcony till it ran too low on air.

    Went down today to my nearest paintball field and bought 100 paintballs and some air and just sat and tuned it for about an hour. I had to dump my centerflag on off though, it started leaking. And my velocity was only 202 when I went in, so after I adjusted it to field specs I had to mess with the lpr again and fine tune my set screws. Runs like a champ with the classic valve, +/- 7 on the chrono and outshot my crappy jt Hopper and made soup twice

    Can't wait for this valve to get here friday

  23. #23
    This is how I envisioned the LPR in my original plans... didnt like how it sat and it made it so my macro had a massive loop that put pressure on the fittings and leaked if they got touched



    Then I got everything all set up inside the frame and working, still didnt like the LPR or macro situation.



    Decided to go with a 3 port ASA W/mini rail and new macro setup.... how she sits in my case





    Edit: Okay Okay, sorry... this is how it sits in the case since I decided to check my mail tonight!!! Thanks for the trade C_los!
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 02-28-2013 at 12:55 AM.

  24. #24
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    Just out of curiosity what LPR is that? Thing is huge. Think you could easily screw that into the VASA and use it like a foregrip.

  25. #25
    Psychoballistics superbolt lpr, its not ideal but its what I had from planning on a pump conversion with the superbolt.

    I have a standard asa to 1/8th adapter, I did mock it up with it as a foregrip and didn't like it. I've been looking at different lprs, I want a silver karni lpr not chrome... you can tell a big difference in the chrome finish over the polished aluminum finish.

    All the karni lprs I've found in silver have had some major tooling damage, and they don't come up too often

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Psychoballistics superbolt lpr, its not ideal but its what I had from planning on a pump conversion with the superbolt.

    I have a standard asa to 1/8th adapter, I did mock it up with it as a foregrip and didn't like it. I've been looking at different lprs, I want a silver karni lpr not chrome... you can tell a big difference in the chrome finish over the polished aluminum finish.

    All the karni lprs I've found in silver have had some major tooling damage, and they don't come up too often
    dood i have a silver CCM LPR that i dont use that ill sell ya:


  27. #27
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    When the superbolt reg works, is responds well. It has a nice fat piston, like a palmers rock. It uses a schrader valve for a seat, so try to keep the air clean and don't fiddle with it too much (delicate). The valves are cheap from HVAC parts companies, but finding the right one is a bit of a pain.

    I think I may have drilled a vent hole in the cap of the one I had. I made sure it had one.

    I would rather have one of these than a tickler on a pneumag, but they are large. I ano'ed mine inside and out, and that did not bother it (I see yours is plated though).

  28. #28
    Mine was actually dust blue I stripped it and polished it myself.

    And I'm not too worried about finding another lpr soon, I wanna get my valve (should be today) and go play!!!!

    If I changed it it would be purely cosmetic, since it works great as is

  29. #29
    Ahhhhhhhh! This is killing me! Valve was supposed to be here Friday, got sent out on the wrong mail truck, doesn't come saturday... comes today, I just got off work and open the mailbox to a piece of paper.... your package is in the front office!


    Curse you tiny apartment mail boxes!!!!

  30. #30
    Alright... well this is turning into a problem thread.

    A) lvl 10 bolt doesn't fit through my emag body, fits my standard. Not emag. ****fixed

    B) had a leak, fixed

    C) had a .71 pin in it, rt'd like crazy with my pneu setup, changed to .750 wouldn't shoot consistantly

    D) out of nowhere something made a pop and drained my tank out of the back AND top vent hole (velocity?)

    E) I replaced the on off oring (the one in the valve body itself) and now the on off assembly is NOT flush with the bottom of the valve. It still fits inside the body and the lower oring seals the on off... the flat area is just not sitting on the flat area of the valve anymore, if that makes sense?

    F) I leaked out 2k psi in my tank and wont have air till tomorrow! its not enough left to let the gun fire, just enough to play "imaginary" paintball with my pneu trigger

    I found the air leak out the back weird because I turned the velocity waaaaaay down and slowly came back up with it till it shot. Then it sat for a second and just blew out.


    EDIT: A is fixed, and I'll take the prize for "weirdest way to use a battle swab"
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-05-2013 at 01:59 PM.

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