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Thread: RT Pro valve

  1. #31
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    did you blow a burst disk on your tank reg...sounds like that could have happened and the valve started leaking out the back to relieve tha pressure? and you prolly just had a burr in the body where the bolt slides thru...had that happen before

  2. #32
    It shouldn't have blown a burst disk? Its a brand new regulator. The tank was still holding air, the gun wasnt... ill drain the tank out and check the reg though just to be sure

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    A) lvl 10 bolt doesn't fit through my emag body, fits my standard. Not emag. ****fixed
    Check the body washer. If the hole through it is mushroomed, you can take the excess metal off with a file.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    B) had a leak, fixed
    Nothing to add here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    C) had a .71 pin in it, rt'd like crazy with my pneu setup, changed to .750 wouldn't shoot consistantly
    Check the on-off oring configuration. If the valve had a quad oring to complement the emag 0.712" pin, then the longer 0.750" pin might cause slow charge/short stroking issues. Change to a regular oring or use a pin shorter than 0.750". You can simulate a shorter pin by adding level 10 or ULT shims in between the on-off halves. Just don't use too many or it will put pressure on and bind the top oring.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    D) out of nowhere something made a pop and drained my tank out of the back AND top vent hole (velocity?)
    A leak in the valve's regulator seat oring could cause an over pressure situation. If the leak was caused by a blown oring, then it would continually dump air until the air source is removed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    E) I replaced the on off oring (the one in the valve body itself) and now the on off assembly is NOT flush with the bottom of the valve. It still fits inside the body and the lower oring seals the on off... the flat area is just not sitting on the flat area of the valve anymore, if that makes sense?
    If the valve fits into the gun properly, then it is fine. If not, then something is interfering with the proper seating of the assembly. Do you have both orings in there? I guess this valve probably only uses the one oring above the on-off top, so it should fit down in the recess but there may be some outward pressure on the assembly which will keep it from sitting all the way in the on-off assembly hole when at rest out of the body.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    F) I leaked out 2k psi in my tank and wont have air till tomorrow! its not enough left to let the gun fire, just enough to play "imaginary" paintball with my pneu trigger

    I found the air leak out the back weird because I turned the velocity waaaaaay down and slowly came back up with it till it shot. Then it sat for a second and just blew out.
    You might have had an oring that was barely hanging on.
    Last edited by athomas; 03-06-2013 at 07:17 AM. Reason: I guess it was changed to a retro valve.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    It shouldn't have blown a burst disk? Its a brand new regulator. The tank was still holding air, the gun wasnt... ill drain the tank out and check the reg though just to be sure
    A burst disk will empty the tank out through the side of the tank regulator as you mentioned. Your problem is valve related, not tank related.

  5. #35
    Thanks for the response, I changed the reg piston o rings with brand new ones from agd (front and back of brass piece) the on off only had a single o ring in the valve body, where the recess is, I replaced that new from the kit as well and it seemed to be thicker than the other one by just a tiny bit... the on off assembly is sticking down maybe 1/2 a credit card width from where it should be flush, like it was before.

    Ill go home tonight and triple check everything... but getting air to it is going to have to wait I went by the paintball place before work and found out they don't even open till 4 during the week... so no air till thursday

  6. #36
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    yep im confused? thought you said you heard a loud pop and then your tank drained...sounded like it could have blown a burst disk? oh well...haha...i would just get a new LPR for your parts box just in case tho

  7. #37
    I did hear a pop but it was from the valve... or maybe it was just the first part of the instant rush of 2000psi flowing out of the two pinholes on the valve that sounded like a pop? I dont know? But I do know it did pucker up the ol fart box for a second... completely unexpected since it WAS holding air with no leaks.

    Anyway, I disassembled the valve again, triple checked my orings, oiled stuff up again... just need air now. Everything looks great and clean so I dont really understand why there is any problems???

  8. #38
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    The regulator piston orings won't cause your problem. The oring that will cause your problem is the small one that sits in front of the brass cup inside the valve.
    Last edited by athomas; 03-07-2013 at 07:16 AM. Reason: wrong wording for description

  9. #39
    So, no I'm a little confused on that last post.

    There is an oring on the back side of the brass piece which is pops on the back. Then there is the smaller on inside the reg back... those are the only two orings for that assembly correct?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    So, no I'm a little confused on that last post.

    There is an oring on the back side of the brass piece which is pops on the back. Then there is the smaller on inside the reg back... those are the only two orings for that assembly correct?
    Yes. The regulator seat oring is the front one that sits on the brass piece, not the back one that sits in the regulator body indentation. Sorry for the confusion.

  11. #41
    Its all good... I was just like, I swear in exploded diagrams I have it exactly like them... then I thought, well that would explain a leak... haha

    Well I'm gonna go get air today. Hopefully its all good. I've only got today and tomorrow to figure it out before I just throw my classic back in to go ballin

  12. #42
    Ok, I got air.

    Initial air up, leaked out the back a little, backed out velocity screw and it stopped, took it outside and put a few balls through it. It seemed like it was a little slow (maybe like 240-250 fps?) but if I turned the velocity up 1/4 turn it would slowly start leaking out the back just a tiny bit. So anyway I just decide to put an ellbows worth of balls through it at a time.

    First shot rolls out, second and third shot shoots normal... pause, put in three more. First shot, rolls out, second and third shoot normal. This happens 5 times

    I take it inside and swap out the red main spring with a gold to see if that helps with the chuff issue and velocity issue. Go back outside, shoots the first shot this time.... then my damn LPR hose got snagged on my finger and popped off, draining my tank below 800 once again... back to square one.

    Here is what I know.
    I believe the LVL 10 is spot on, when its aired up if I put some tension on the valve to move it i can hear it leak a little, but seals up when sitting there... so i dont want to mess with that. with the red spring it was chuffing off just a ball in the chamber for my first shot. with the gold it seemed ok for the couple shots i could take. I also put my pinky in the chamber with the red spring and felt like nothing whatsoever... didnt get to test the gold spring for pinching, but it SHOULD be a harder hit right?

    Also, was I correct in swapping the main spring for my chuff issue?

    Im going to try and just go to the paintball field with my gun and parts box now that the gf is home. Any more help with the chuffing/ first shot roll outs is appreciated. Ill just check my phone for any tips (if anyone reads it while im there )

    also, I was NOT trying to shoot the string fast. it was like 1 bps, just making sure everything was fine and not leaking after shots

  13. #43
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    If it leaks out the back when the velocity is turned up but not when it is turned down, then your regulator piston is a low pressure version and needs to be upgraded to a high pressure version in order to use the level 10 bolt.


    Switch from the gold spring to the red one will not make your chuff issues go away. A first shot that rolls out but subsequent shots that are ok is a symptom of bolt stick for a level 10 carrier that is too tight. Changing the spring just changed the parameters. You probably had more residual oil on the oring when you moved the bolt around when adding the red spring which is shy it worked first shot. It will show the same symptoms and will actually be more prone to first shot drop off than the gold one once the oring dries out. You need to tune the level 10 once you have air. Since you have a leak when you move the valve and it goes away when sitting indicates that you have too many shims in your powertube. Take them all out. You don't need them.

  14. #44
    I switched from red to gold on the main spring.

    Wasnt the RT Pro released with LVL 10 stock? Thats just odd to me the piston would not be set up to run the pressures for LVL 10... I thought I had read that in tuning the LVL 10 if you have issues with velocity then the spring tension (length) was too much and try the stock gold spring, or get the one you can cut to length... is that all wrong?

    I will try removing the shims, if I recall when I had the tip off there is two in it, if it doesnt help ill swap the carrier to the 1/2 size up and check again. I ended up not being able to go down to the field but ill go down tomorrow for sure

    Thanks for your help, all this is new to me and ive tried reading as much as i could about it...

  15. #45
    Well I went through the lvl 10 stuff and it had a single dot carrier in it already. I bumped it up a size and took the shims out. Guess ill see how it goes tomorrow and report back


    Also, the bolt already feels too loose just by hand. It barely had any friction on it at all going from the single dot to the single line carrier. So I guess we'll see if that helps at all?
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-08-2013 at 12:22 AM.

  16. #46
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    have you tried testing/tuning you RT pro valve on a mech set up or did you just put it on your pneumag? its easier to tune the valve when you dont have LPR hoses popping off...haha...just kidding...but serious at tha same time?

  17. #47
    No I have not tried it without the pneu setup, I got rid of my other frame and don't feel like taking all my setup out of the intelli.

    I can tell its close, just a couple fine tuning things... I think ill end up putting the one dot carrier back in, and realistically probably buying a new reg piston. But other than that I think it will work out... plus, I have no idea what its shooting fps wise, I'm guesstimating by shooting a line in the road 60 feet from my balcony... I could be well above 260-270. But by sight it doesn't seem like it??? I just need to get to the field with some all day air, a Chrono, and some ao on the Cellular device



    Also, I found a new use for Teflon on off o rings they can slide over autocker 3 way hose... put it on the hose, put the hose on the barb then slide the o ring onto the barb. I can't pull the hose off without sliding the o ring up
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-08-2013 at 02:07 AM.

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    No I have not tried it without the pneu setup, I got rid of my other frame and don't feel like taking all my setup out of the intelli.

    I can tell its close, just a couple fine tuning things... I think ill end up putting the one dot carrier back in, and realistically probably buying a new reg piston. But other than that I think it will work out... plus, I have no idea what its shooting fps wise, I'm guesstimating by shooting a line in the road 60 feet from my balcony... I could be well above 260-270. But by sight it doesn't seem like it??? I just need to get to the field with some all day air, a Chrono, and some ao on the Cellular device
    ok

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Wasnt the RT Pro released with LVL 10 stock? Thats just odd to me the piston would not be set up to run the pressures for LVL 10...
    The RT Pro was released before the level 10 existed so it was only ever came with a level 7 bolt. The oringinal regulator piston pressure was high enough for all mags operating a level 7 bolt.


    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    I thought I had read that in tuning the LVL 10 if you have issues with velocity then the spring tension (length) was too much and try the stock gold spring, or get the one you can cut to length... is that all wrong?
    If you can't get the velocity adjusted low enough so that the gun still cycles properly, then you need to change from the red spring to the gold one. First shot drop off is not the same issue. It is a friction problem which is related to the carrier being too tight.


    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    I will try removing the shims, if I recall when I had the tip off there is two in it, if it doesnt help ill swap the carrier to the 1/2 size up and check again. I ended up not being able to go down to the field but ill go down tomorrow for sure
    Removing the shims will allow the carrier to move farther up the bolt stem so that the oring won't be at the edge of the bolt stem vent hole causing premature leaking. This will allow you to use the proper carrier size without inducing a false leak indication when testing. Remember to always use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. It is the inner tension of the oring that you are adjusting with the different size carriers.

  20. #50
    Yup yup, athomas you were correct, the carrier one size up had a small leak when I first aired up. Two shots it would go away. Valve doesn't leak, I got about half way through my testing and.... need, your gonna get a kick out of this..... my lpr's shrader valve gave way, popping off my pneu hoses, went and got a new shrader and still leaked internally.

    I got to shoot the gun about 50 rounds, not over a chrono but the problems from before were gone. This is still with the gold spring. The last two things I wanted to check were velocity and if the lvl 10 worked with the gold spring, but I didn't get the chance to since the lpr went....

    Need.... how much did you want for that ccm again? Lol

  21. #51
    Well, in the mail I've got the following: Tickler silver lpr, agd HP piston, ule body, reds clamping feedneck, cp detent, and an emag rail. By Monday I should have an rt pro pneumag and a classic pistol all in working order.... well... I know the classic pistol will work at least, lol

  22. #52
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    The gold spring usually works really well with the level 10 bolt. It will allow you to use a lower velocity setting than the red spring, but you will give up a tiny bit of sensitivity. This won`t be an issue unless you use really brittle paint.

    If you want optimum tuning, then use a spring that allows the gun to shoot at your desired velocity which is about 20 fps above the velocity that the gun starts to cycle. The red spring usually gets you in this range.

  23. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The gold spring usually works really well with the level 10 bolt. It will allow you to use a lower velocity setting than the red spring, but you will give up a tiny bit of sensitivity. This won`t be an issue unless you use really brittle paint.

    If you want optimum tuning, then use a spring that allows the gun to shoot at your desired velocity which is about 20 fps above the velocity that the gun starts to cycle. The red spring usually gets you in this range.
    Yeah I had read a pretty good write up about the lvl 10 the other night and saw the part about the velocity and springs. Shooting it indoors made it seem like my velocity was high as is, as opposed to feeling like it was low outdoors.

    I should have my new lpr by Tuesday and hopefully the Tickler lasts a little longer than that psychoballistics pos.

    One other thing I did notice, was I was getting some rt with the pneu trigger? I thought that eliminated it? Maybe it was just from the lpr being on its last leg...

  24. #54
    Oh snap! Got the ule body and emag rail today. Was pewter, now nice and polished . Also drilled the rail for a grip and did set screws front and back to hold it in place! Coming together, and only one part away from birthing another mag! lol... too bad my little bit of extra funds from the tax return just ran out

    New LPR, Redz feedneck, CP detent and a few other odds and ends should be in by tuesday! Then Im done for sure!


  25. #55
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    Looks nice.

  26. #56
    Thanks! Its coming together

  27. #57
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    hmmmm....ur LPR went out on ya? i still have the CCM LPR but i would recommend buying or making your own LPR Reg tester to check the LPR for spikes or creeping? they dont cost much to build your own and are nice to have around when you find that smoking deal on a used LPR to make sure it even works?

    as mentioned in numerous threads about LPR's, particularly the LPR's not made by Palmers or AKA, they may take the pressure of what ever tank your using fine one day...then BAM...ur LPR fails, your out of air, and now wish you would have snagged a back up LPR or a Palmers or AKA LPR to begin with?

    hopefully this new Tickler will work fine for til ya pick up a new micro rock or pebble from palmers or a nice AKA LPR, and maybe a LPR reg tester...time will tell...haha...good luck dood!!!

  28. #58
    So I just decided wilst working on my mag this morning (got my feedneck/detent/new on off asa)....

    That it has no soul anymore... lol. The only original piece from my build is the front frame screw.

    Hopefully with my 90% of another mag parts pile I have, ill get that warm fuzzy feeling back. This RT-EPNUE mag is just a cold hearted *+#%&. Everything that can go wrong does, right?

  29. #59
    Well ladies, got both my lprs today I got the Tickler and the dust black WGP bullet style that came on the Black Magic... needless to say, the bullet ended up on the mag and the Tickler on the cocker. Both work like a pro now

    Thanks for everyone's help, maybe next time ill build in stages to save the headache? Probably not though.

    Thanks again!!!!

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