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Thread: Milling for freak inserts

  1. #1

    Milling for freak inserts

    What dimensions does the barrel need to have in order to be milled for freak inserts and who does this these days? I can't find any current information about it.

  2. #2
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    I know there are at least 2 airsmiths on MCarterBrown that do it.

  3. #3
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    i know i need someone in the USA, its not worth it to send it to canada.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  4. #4
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    Link 1+2 are US. Link 3 is Canada.
    Some barrels, such as, WGP Kaner are difficult to do but not impossible.


    http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ng-update.html

    http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...ml#post2393405

    http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/d...ccesories.html

  5. #5
    yea I have an old twist lock barrel I would love to have milled for inserts.. just concerned the inner bore might actually be too big. No idea what kind of barrel either, no markings and I've never seen another like it.

    No porting, no outside milling, nothing. Its the same width along it's entire length and it looks really freaking awesome on a RT classic..

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    yea I have an old twist lock barrel I would love to have milled for inserts.. just concerned the inner bore might actually be too big. No idea what kind of barrel either, no markings and I've never seen another like it.

    No porting, no outside milling, nothing. Its the same width along it's entire length and it looks really freaking awesome on a RT classic..
    so far none of them can mill a twistlock barrel for freak insert, i have asked before. the set up they have will not let them reach down deep enough to mill for the insert.

  7. #7
    Oh darn. That would explain why I didn't have it done when I first wanted to get it done. Hm... I simply MUST find a way to get it done...

  8. #8
    Bringing another failure point to the light... a freak back is a standard bore 2 piece back that is milled from the front, the furthest part back is just about the same ID as any other barrel, then it is bored from the front and leaves the entire breach area like any other barrel. The insert doesn't start till after the bolt travel area. You'd also have to take into account, milling the barrel from.the back would include the feed hole in the barrel... which would have to be made in the insert then secured inside the barrel so it didn't twist thus feeding no balls....

    It could be done, if you found someone to mill the barrel then drill the inserts for the feed... then used say, 3 set screws in the barrel around it to secure the insert.

    Find a crappy barrel and buy an insert and have someone go to town on it as an experiment. Could bring them some business, id love to have my dye stainless freaked out
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-03-2013 at 02:06 AM.

  9. #9
    my thought was having the barrel cut same lenght as a freak back, coming in from the front, stop right where the feed hole in the barrel begins. freak insert would slide in from front rest on the lip making seamless(hope), new freak back is thread for short tip and tip hold insert in place.

  10. #10
    I think the cost of doing a single barrel that way would be about like buying a ule body and a freak jr for a cocker...

    FWIW I posted a want ad on here and PBN, had a freak back in 2 days for $40... you could buy a real freak back and have a the tip of your favorite barrel made to fit it. That would probably take out a bunch of cost and headache, yet still be unique

    I like the idea of inserts for a regular mag barrel. I just think the cost would be horrendous.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    yea I have an old twist lock barrel I would love to have milled for inserts.. just concerned the inner bore might actually be too big. No idea what kind of barrel either, no markings and I've never seen another like it.

    No porting, no outside milling, nothing. Its the same width along it's entire length and it looks really freaking awesome on a RT classic..
    The barrel that you have is a Smart Parts Rain Barrel. They were produced without porting to ensure the barrel stayed dry in inclement weather. I also have one and like you have never seen another. Mine is splash anno and I was told from Smart Parts that these barrels were produced starting at the time when splash was ending. Very few were done in splash and I believe shortly after production of the rain barrel ended due to the Freak Barrel being released.

  12. #12
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    I have had warpedmephisto do freak boring for me and rethreading as well with no problems

  13. #13
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    this guy is selling a T/L freak bored Dye ultra light back:
    http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/m...d-updated.html

    that can be an option for ya if you are not able to get your SP barrel done the way you want? or you could get your barrel rethreaded with A/C threads, freak bore it, and get a Doc's T/L to cocker adapter and use the barrel on both a T/L mag or a ULE mag?

    expensive...oh hells yeah that would be expensive, but anything is expensive when you want custom, and its just another option incase the dood that posted this thread didnt know that was possible???

    good luck man!!!

  14. #14
    I have a polished stainless steel twist lock freak back already. I haven't thought to try it in the RT classic to see if it's long enough to be visible through the porting but I bet it is. What I like about the rain barrel is it's uniform look through the porting to the very tip, with the black RT classic body it makes for a nice look.

    I'm wondering now if its possible to make the rain barrel into a two piece barrel. Cut it, mill/thread the back for freak inserts and for the front to screw into it. Then mill/thread the front to hold the insert in place and screw into the back. Be expensive but it would keep the same look to the barrel, it would be just a tad shorter.

  15. #15
    Anythings possible with enough scratch

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    I have a polished stainless steel twist lock freak back already. I haven't thought to try it in the RT classic to see if it's long enough to be visible through the porting but I bet it is. What I like about the rain barrel is it's uniform look through the porting to the very tip, with the black RT classic body it makes for a nice look.

    I'm wondering now if its possible to make the rain barrel into a two piece barrel. Cut it, mill/thread the back for freak inserts and for the front to screw into it. Then mill/thread the front to hold the insert in place and screw into the back. Be expensive but it would keep the same look to the barrel, it would be just a tad shorter.

    hows about a pic of the barrel? what bore is the barrel?

  17. #17
    Just have your TL barrel rethreaded for Autococker, then freak bored. Most of the guys offering freak boring can do that. Then use a Doc's TL/Cocker adapter and you're done.

  18. #18
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    the splashkit guy on mcb bores his own twistlock backs im sure he would do more.

  19. #19
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    Heres two pics of what I have and it appears to me that there is an abundance of metal to work with. The entire barrel is the same thickness as the twistlock assembly, I know Stanchy on MCB does boring and Im sure a list of others.




  20. #20
    Grelvire has one like mine in his bench clearing sale thread. Some really good suggestions on what to do, will have to explore them and see what will be best.

  21. #21
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    Not to poo on the good ideas, I like what I've read for sure. I was thinking KISS route would be a python TL to cocker and then go to town on whatever cocker barrel or kit you want. Triple stepped barrel setups are nice. Then you could also use an actual Freak barrel like a DW.

    I dig the SP rain barrel, I hope she stays as is. I like their stuff before legal took PBall by the...

    Well you know... anywho my 16in AA twisty is such a beast coupled to my RT classic. That's my loaner setup. It always has the best combo of efficiency, quietness and accuracy.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwik175 View Post
    Heres two pics of what I have and it appears to me that there is an abundance of metal to work with. The entire barrel is the same thickness as the twistlock assembly, I know Stanchy on MCB does boring and Im sure a list of others.





    Damn kwik that sure is a purty barrel man!!! Rehkal are ya gonna post pics of your barrel?

  23. #23
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    ya in order for the barrel to be freak bored for mags it has to be 2 pieces and threaded. i would not cut that barrel up it was probably a custom order that went threw sp. best bet would be to pick a AA with matching splash and have the tip threaded if you wanted to go that route.

  24. #24
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    whats the bore on your barrel?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    Grelvire has one like mine in his bench clearing sale thread. Some really good suggestions on what to do, will have to explore them and see what will be best.
    the barrel in grelvire's thread, isnt that a bull barrel? i used to have one of those on a classic mag and it shot nice and straight...do you really need it freak or just want it freak bored?

  26. #26
    I'll stop at my storage on the way home today to get it out of storage and get some pictures of it. I'm not sure what the exact bore is, I'll measure that as well but I know it's large enough for most paint to roll right through with no resistance.

  27. #27
    Here is the classic RT I want this barrel for, I love the look of this particular barrel and want to maintain that look if possible. At some point I intend to get everything reannoed to match.. also, don't mind the qloader as it will be moved at a later date.



    And the barrel by itself.





    I would have the inside bore size but the battery in my digi caliper is dying, trying to read the lines tells me its close to .7 if not slightly larger on the inside. So quite large as I said before.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    Here is the classic RT I want this barrel for, I love the look of this particular barrel and want to maintain that look if possible. At some point I intend to get everything reannoed to match.. also, don't mind the qloader as it will be moved at a later date.



    And the barrel by itself.





    I would have the inside bore size but the battery in my digi caliper is dying, trying to read the lines tells me its close to .7 if not slightly larger on the inside. So quite large as I said before.
    yeah thats a stock bull barrel...thats a nice barrel man...with good detents you should be getting any rollouts? its a straight shooter...have you shot it yet???

  29. #29
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    have the back re-threaded and run a doc adapter. or pic on up that is cocker threaded already.

  30. #30
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    Given how they have to do this, Whats going to end up needing to be done would be cutting it in half.

    Threading the back for a tip, then doing the Freak insert bore to the edge of the bore drop.

    Then you get the front threaded to match the back and lock in the insert in.

    Kinda spendy vs say getting a Doc AC to Twist Lock adapter for $30 and finding a bull AC barrel that can be machined from then breach end.

    -R
    Serving AGD customers since 93, wishing I could beat some common since into some of them about 5 hrs later.


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