Pneumag Builds - Trigger Pull
I have tried PMing the member here on AO but it's been some time and still no response. I see a lot of varying results when it comes to pneumag pulls and their trigger pulls. Some seem pretty soft and easy to chuff and some seem like they can really rip. From what I've seen, the trigger results I'd like to get from a build if I decide to take that route would be like the one in the video below. Where it seems you can hardly tell it's mechanical at all.
That trigger pull looks like its just using the pieces from the regular pneu kit... my pull is about 1mm. I used a plate inside the intelliframe to mount the msv2 lower down with the entire lever still in tact (less pull weight/more leverage) its extremely light and put it up against my little brothers g4, of course mine was a little heavier pull since that uses a micro switch, but both were easily walkable... have a lvl 10 though, my classic valve makes soup when it gets going...
Also, I'm going to be experimenting with my own style "magnet mod". Usually a screw is set in a brace on top of the msv2 then a magnet is mounted on the screw and a magnet is mounted on the msv2 lever, with the magnets opposing each other (pushing apart).... what I want to try, since my msv2 lever is less than 1mm away from the frame, is figure out a way to drill a hole in my frame to fit the magnet and let the magnet pull the msv lever forward... should be same theory.... I may try drilling and tapping a 10/32 set screw though, so I can adjust the "pull strength" of the magnet by getting it closer/further away.
Hope this helps and doesn't seem like rambling haha
Rambling is good so long as it's coherent so no problem lol. I just thought I'd ask because I had one of RPG's sleepered at one time and it just seemed like the trigger pull was longer than it should have been and easy to chuff. Always wanted something short and crisp like that in the video and was looking for input from members on their builds and what they may have done to achieve that result.
This is the best pic I can show you of my trigger pull... the gap is about 2mm+/- and the middle set screw takes up some of that slack. This is just with a regular pneu kit sold by Mag79 in the dealer forum
its also a matter of whether or not whoever is shooting the pneumag can walk a trigger correctly...you can have a perfectly tuned pneumag that is being used by some one who cant walk a trigger and cause it to chuff..yet they will blame it on the set up? some are lighter than others, some use a RT on/off, some use a ULT, some use a X-valve, some use a classic valve, some people dont test their lpr's to properly tune their pneumag so its hard to go off of wat is seen or heard on tha net...you gotta either build or buy one and find out for your self...pretty much just like any other paintball product..ya know?
Yeah, thats all true and I saw it first hand. My little bro is an "electro" boy... he can walk his g4 into next year... 3 pulls into the mag and its hissing and just crying "please god get me out of this childs hands!!!"
Originally Posted by need4reebs
It took me 3 tanks of air to get everything how I wanted it... it went like this for about an hour- get pneus working smoothly at lowest PSI on LPR... change velocity, they dont work anymore. Adjust lpr, works again, velocity isnt right. Change velocity, trigger only works 1/2 the time now, air down, adjust LPR 1/4 turn everything works.... centerflag on off starts leaking, put in stock one.... START OVER! haha.
But Im very happy with my results, and I believe in my own theory that retaining the entire msv2 arm helps with the short trigger pull, where other people cut them down to mount them in the intelliswitch hole.