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Thread: Level 10 bolt and pump kit

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  1. #1

    Schrodinger's Pump

    Yeah, I'm trying to work the mechanics out in my head.

    The key is for the on/off to stay off.

    That means the bolt needs to reliably, consistently stick in a way that holds the sear down, thus the on/off is kept off. And stays that way until the pump forcibly actuates it.

    Maybe a longer trigger pin will help with this...

    Or a tweaked ULT...

    Unsure if the increased LX bolt spring interacts any differently with the wave spring either...
    "Accuracy by aiming."


    Definitely not on the A-Team.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Mt. Pleasant, SC
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    2,747
    i run a xvalve in mine

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    McHenry, IL
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    There was something about this recently. I seem to remember someone saying that you need to ground down the back of the powertube tip a little, so your carrier sits a tiny bit farther forward. This way, the exhaust hole on the bolt is still closed off when the bolt is locked onto the sear, but being pushed forward by the wave spring. I'm pretty sure it was AThomas who was talking about it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    PHX, AZ
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    can flipping the carrier over fix that? it would change the location of of the o-ring with out having to grind down a the power tube tip, or possibly put a couple shims in before the carrier if that moved the o-ring up to much?

    its just a question that hopefully someone will answer...its not something ive tried or heard about being done tho?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Texas
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    The variables would be the spring tension and adjusting the location of where the bolt vents by experimenting with the shims.

  6. #6
    I actually thought of adjusting the vent point on the LX bolt, but decided that it would interfere with the LX bolt's inherent operation, which I didn't want. For these purposes, I want the bolt to be 100% functioning as intended (aside from bolt stick).

    So if the bolt is ahead of the vent point at rest, I'm OK with that as long as the on/off is ... off. Hence... longer on/off pin or deliberately maladjusted ULT. If my recharge sucks slightly more with a longer on/off pin... that's OK... because it's a pump...

  7. #7
    Here's a thought: Ditch the wave spring completely, use a gold bolt spring, and use a carrier that is slightly too tight. The natural bolt stick would keep the valve from resetting, and then your pump stroke would only have the resistance of a tight-fitting o-ring rather than the wave spring. Talk about smooth!

    I mean, the entire purpose of the wave spring is to induce bolt stick anyway, right?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    PHX, AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    I actually thought of adjusting the vent point on the LX bolt, but decided that it would interfere with the LX bolt's inherent operation, which I didn't want. For these purposes, I want the bolt to be 100% functioning as intended (aside from bolt stick).

    So if the bolt is ahead of the vent point at rest, I'm OK with that as long as the on/off is ... off. Hence... longer on/off pin or deliberately maladjusted ULT. If my recharge sucks slightly more with a longer on/off pin... that's OK... because it's a pump...
    oh it will work fine with the lvl 10 bolt, there were problems with small leaks from the time the shot was fired until the marker was pumped and the bolt reset

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    I actually thought of adjusting the vent point on the LX bolt, but decided that it would interfere with the LX bolt's inherent operation, which I didn't want. For these purposes, I want the bolt to be 100% functioning as intended (aside from bolt stick).

    So if the bolt is ahead of the vent point at rest, I'm OK with that as long as the on/off is ... off. Hence... longer on/off pin or deliberately maladjusted ULT. If my recharge sucks slightly more with a longer on/off pin... that's OK... because it's a pump...
    The on-off pin remains inside of the small on-off top oring sealing the air passage until the sear can actually rotate forward. The sear can only rotate forward if the bolt is fully back in the reset position. Its not the pin that is causing leaking out the front in a pump mag anyway. Its the exposed vent hole. Normally there is residual pressure in the front chamber when the bolt resets. If the vent hole is exposed, that air is allowed to escape, so its wasted.

    The vent distance doesn't affect the operation of the level 10 for anti-chop. The vent distance only affects how far forward the bolt needs to be before it can vent the excess air out of the chamber so that the bolt spring can push it back to the reset position. In a pump mag, the wave spring would hold the bolt forward causing the vent hole to be permanently exposed which would allow it to vent all residual air out of the chamber.

    The level 10 will work for a pump mag as it normally does for any mag. The secret to get it to work without leaking air is too allow the carrier oring to sit far enough forward so that it is always in front of the vent hole. We don't need the vent hole for a pump mag since you are manually resetting the bolt anyway, so you don't need the spring force to be larger than the residual chamber pressure force. If you have a spare powertube tip, file it down to allow the carrier to sit farther forward. Flipping the carrier won't work, because the oring can be pushed forward out of the carrier.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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