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Thread: emag not shooting consistantly

  1. #1
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    emag not shooting consistantly

    setup,
    by tunaman,
    -no shims in the lvl ten,
    -bolt is spaced perfect it is not too loose and not too tight,
    -new gold spring,
    -detents are not in too far,(atually took them out to eliminate that being the issue,
    -has emag on/off installed

    onto the problem,
    -the gun fires well, rt's nice, since my tank is at 950 psi output,
    -it will rt a bit then chuff, and load a ball in the barrel then start shooting nice again,
    - or it will just chuff three or so times and each chuff loads a ball into the barrel and then after starts shooting well again,

    **all of this mechanical no battery.

    let me know where to look for this answer or if you have the aswer thats great,

    any and all help is apreciated.

    thankyou,
    KNM.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  2. #2
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    side note,
    Tunaman did not have the whole gun just the valves, so the issue isnt that he set it up wrong it all me.

  3. #3
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    wat body are you using? does the bolt get hung up at all in the breach area? sometimes a tiny little burr can cause the bolt to not pass the breach area and cause the chuff stuff or bolt stick? see if you can drop the bolt down into the breech and see if it gets caught up on anything?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    wat body are you using? does the bolt get hung up at all in the breach area? sometimes a tiny little burr can cause the bolt to not pass the breach area and cause the chuff stuff or bolt stick? see if you can drop the bolt down into the breech and see if it gets caught up on anything?
    shock wave.
    ill test that idea.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    shock wave.
    ill test that idea.
    have by chance tried to use this valve in another setup?

    or tried a different valve with your Shock wave?

    or maybe tried adjust the field strip screw?

  6. #6
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    Check that your field strip screw isn't too long and bottoming out in the valve.

    I have a pretty good idea that the proper pin setup is in place, but I have to ask the question anyway. Which emag pin setup are you using? Are you using the 0.712" pin and quad oring, or the 0.725" pin and regular urethane oring. The 0.712" pin and quad oring is the proper one to use.

    Is the hopper pushing the paintballs too far into the breach area? This could be caused by using really small diameter paintballs.

    What is the quality of your sear? If the RT action is too quick due to a worn sear, then the valve won't have time to properly charge the front chamber before it is trying to shoot again, which causes a short stroke result. The little puff of air caused by the short stroke is quite often enough air to push the ball forward but not fire it out of the barrel.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Check that your field strip screw isn't too long and bottoming out in the valve.

    I have a pretty good idea that the proper pin setup is in place, but I have to ask the question anyway. Which emag pin setup are you using? Are you using the 0.712" pin and quad oring, or the 0.725" pin and regular urethane oring. The 0.712" pin and quad oring is the proper one to use.

    Is the hopper pushing the paintballs too far into the breach area? This could be caused by using really small diameter paintballs.

    What is the quality of your sear? If the RT action is too quick due to a worn sear, then the valve won't have time to properly charge the front chamber before it is trying to shoot again, which causes a short stroke result. The little puff of air caused by the short stroke is quite often enough air to push the ball forward but not fire it out of the barrel.
    quad oring setup,

    how do i check for a worn sear?

  8. #8
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    so i measured the pin it is the right one.
    i didnt do this in the video but i fired it before with the thumb screw threaded in but making sure it wasnt bottomed out. (if that makes sense)

    no battery either just mech.

    here is a video if this helps.

  9. #9
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    What are you feedin this with ? ( hopper) If it chuffs it means your LX is workin right , is it feedin enough paint fast enough ??

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by maniacmechanic View Post
    What are you feedin this with ? ( hopper) If it chuffs it means your LX is workin right , is it feedin enough paint fast enough ??
    rotor
    but that was with no paint in it,
    did you watch the video?

  11. #11
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    That is bolt stick. Your carrier is too tight.

    Check the sear tip where it catches the bolt. If it is sharp, it is ok. If it is rounded or has an indentation, then it is worn.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    That is bolt stick. Your carrier is too tight.

    Check the sear tip where it catches the bolt. If it is sharp, it is ok. If it is rounded or has an indentation, then it is worn.
    carrier is good i think. from what i can tell its not too tight.

    the sear being worn what issues does that cause?

  13. #13
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    so threw a different lvl ten bolt in, it feels just a hair maybe a half a hair tighter now it seems to be fine,
    but i cant run paint through it right now to make 100% sure.

    any ideas why it wants to work now?
    im running on about 900 psi is what my tank guage says.

    im confused.

  14. #14
    I didn't believe athomas at first when tuning my lvl10, the bolt had very little resistance but still had chuffing issues. I went up a half a carrier size, the bolt literally wiggles and slips right out, but it seals up with air.... I couldn't believe it would seal being that loose but it did, no issues anymore

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    I didn't believe athomas at first when tuning my lvl10, the bolt had very little resistance but still had chuffing issues. I went up a half a carrier size, the bolt literally wiggles and slips right out, but it seals up with air.... I couldn't believe it would seal being that loose but it did, no issues anymore
    oh no kidding.
    maybe ill put that size carrier in, i have one that feels exactly how you describe.

    what do the different springs do? and how do they effect tuning? im using a gold/ the short spring.

    thankyou,
    KNM.

  16. #16
    From my understanding is the gold/classic spring has the least resistance on the lvl 10, meaning it will still work as it should, but the bolt "hits" with a harder velocity on the paintball, or finger, or 1/2 ball in the breech. So you could still chop with brittle paint

    The red is about 1/2" longer and has more resistance on the bolt, so when the bolt is obstructed it hits with less force.

    The cut to length spring from agd is the longest one that you tune yourself by cutting/ fine tuning to your marker.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    From my understanding is the gold/classic spring has the least resistance on the lvl 10, meaning it will still work as it should, but the bolt "hits" with a harder velocity on the paintball, or finger, or 1/2 ball in the breech. So you could still chop with brittle paint

    The red is about 1/2" longer and has more resistance on the bolt, so when the bolt is obstructed it hits with less force.

    The cut to length spring from agd is the longest one that you tune yourself by cutting/ fine tuning to your marker.
    thankyou for that,
    it was in my head somewhere i just need to hear it again to bring the file to the front.

    *** issue i am worried about before i go down a size on my carrier,
    the sear resets, but some times doesnt reset to the full, is this a normal thing?
    so instead of resetting to -|
    it resets to here sometimes - |
    super exageration, but even when it dosnt seem to rest to the full rest point i still can fire, whats this mean

  18. #18
    I'm not fully following the sear issue, its getting late... haha.

    But, go UP a size on the carrier like on mine for example, from one dot- to one line. And use the same oring inside the carrier in the new one since it is already broken in.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    That is bolt stick. Your carrier is too tight.

    Check the sear tip where it catches the bolt. If it is sharp, it is ok. If it is rounded or has an indentation, then it is worn.

    this is wats happening dood?

    if your sear was worn it wouldnt latch on to the bolt and could cause rapid firing? but as athomas posted its seems like bolt stick dood.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    carrier is good i think. from what i can tell its not too tight.

    the sear being worn what issues does that cause?
    The only real way to tell if the carrier is the right one, is to install the next larger one using the same white oring in it. If it leaks with the new carrier when it didn't with the original one, then the original one was the correct size. If it doesn't leak with the new one, then it is a better fit. Always use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

    A worn sear typically causes runaway or hard to control reactivity. The side effect is short stroking which affects the shot to shot consistency. The other symptom is that the bolt sits farther forward which can cause the bolt stem vent hole to be close to the sealing edge of the carrier oring. This can result in a leak that causes you to use a tighter carrier size than what would normally be needed. The tighter carrier size often causes bolt stick issues. Of course, when you try to go to the next larger one you get a leak, so you think you are using the proper one.

  21. #21
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    fixed aparently,
    i went up a carrier size, it was too big,
    changed oring to see if thats the issue no dice,
    put the old carrier and oring in, shoots great.

    *** side note on emode i can put it on semi hit the trigger once and it will bounce full auto. lol its funny, ill have to adjust som there.

    thankyou for the help.

    KNM,

  22. #22
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    The act of taking the carrier oring out and then putting it back may have altered the parameters enough to make it work for you.

    What firmware revision are you running on your board?

    Is the runaway action on semi due to the trigger rod hitting the back of the trigger, the trigger return magnet set too light, or is it just going full auto until the trigger is manually held or allowed to go fully forward?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    or is it just going full auto until the trigger is manually held or allowed to go fully forward?
    both ill lightly tap the trigger and it will just bounce, i think its the magnets being weak,
    and if i hold the trigger down it stops of course.

    ill get stronger magnet and check it out.

  24. #24
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    and fixed.
    all work flawless.
    except for the m90 toxic up top, msv 2 is venting like a mo fo.

  25. #25
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    Does the msv vent outside the frame?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Does the msv vent outside the frame?
    im a dummy, i wasnt payin attention to where the air leak was coming from, it was my tickler, needed a new oring.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    both ill lightly tap the trigger and it will just bounce, i think its the magnets being weak,
    and if i hold the trigger down it stops of course.

    ill get stronger magnet and check it out.
    Adjust the spacing of the magnet in the frame above the trigger. With 2 magnets at the bottom of the hole, you get maximum return force. Many use one magnet with an oring spacer under it to achieve the desired trigger pull and return force.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Adjust the spacing of the magnet in the frame above the trigger. With 2 magnets at the bottom of the hole, you get maximum return force. Many use one magnet with an oring spacer under it to achieve the desired trigger pull and return force.
    yeah, thankyou,
    easy fix for me.
    the valve is usually the only thing that stumps me.

    thankyou for all the help.

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