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Thread: Aluminum Classic Valve

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    I sent TK an email and he said it would be ok for me to produce up to 50. I would just need to mark them as my own so they are not confused with AGD product. If we were to make just the front half of the valve it would be most cost effective to use the stainless power tube tip from an x valve. making the reg half is probably a waste since several aftermarket companies made them from aluminum and they are cheap.

    sounds like a cool project....If enough people are interested i will do a run this year.
    I would take 2 or 3 off your hands depending on price.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Are the powertubes the same on the Classic? If not, I would say use the Classic powertube vs the X. If we are having to scavenge for powertubes, I would rather scavenge from a $50 Classic than a $200 X or Retro.. Having to use an X powertube would kill it for me.
    the classic powertube tips are welded on. I sent tuna a PM on the X powertube tips. Might as well use them because they are already made. Sure we could make the regulator ends as well if enough people want them.

    for the quantity were talking about these will cost about the same as a new x valve when its all said and done.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    the classic powertube tips are welded on. I sent tuna a PM on the X powertube tips. Might as well use them because they are already made. Sure we could make the regulator ends as well if enough people want them.

    for the quantity were talking about these will cost about the same as a new x valve when its all said and done.
    I'm out. Deus was offering a cap for XValves at one point Think he made a couple, but not sure how many. I would rather find a cheap used X and cap it before spending $250 on just this. Sorry, I didnt realize it would be that much.

  4. #34
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    Haha haha. All the work involved. How would anyone expect this to be under a 200 dollar price tag?

  5. #35
    Like I said earlier in the thread.... id pay $50 for some weight than $200+ on the same classic valve.... you may get 1-2 sold here and there, but your gonna get put 6 feet under with 48 of these in your casket

    Pipe dreams.......

  6. #36
    The only thing I see with this. Wanting this for competitive play, if you make a classic valve out of aluminum. Everyone is going to have it ano to match, so how are judges/refs going to know its a classic valve not X valve. I am sure some if not.most are not even familiar with a mag so for them to tell the difference by looks is going to be a mess.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Haha haha. All the work involved. How would anyone expect this to be under a 200 dollar price tag?
    I honestly have no idea on machine time.I thought when I had asked for a one off once that someone quoted me around $200. I was figuring with a little quantity, maybe $100. At least we know now.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Like I said earlier in the thread.... id pay $50 for some weight than $200+ on the same classic valve.... you may get 1-2 sold here and there, but your gonna get put 6 feet under with 48 of these in your casket

    Pipe dreams.......
    Oh I wasn't directing that really at you. You have been saying a classic valve would cost as much to produce from the beginning. I would love to have my classic valve weigh less also. But not enough to pay much for the same thing I already own. Just lighter.

    People in general think stuff can be made and sold for nothing. Then throw a fit when they find out the fabricator wants to make a little profit.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker View Post
    The only thing I see with this. Wanting this for competitive play, if you make a classic valve out of aluminum. Everyone is going to have it ano to match, so how are judges/refs going to know its a classic valve not X valve. I am sure some if not.most are not even familiar with a mag so for them to tell the difference by looks is going to be a mess.
    Yeah I see it like this too, and that's IF it ever caught on (it just died this morning, lol)


    Id really rather see the mods that used to make a classic rip, get people excited again... instead of of weight savings make up for it with the fact you can make it rip off 15-18-20 bps... someone needs to bring the electronic frame back, with basic boards available for.decent prices, frames to choose from, I don't see it being a problem bringing one back sub $200.


    Not a ten year old one going for $300 on eBay because nobody lets them go... or there aren't many left?

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Oh I wasn't directing that really at you. You have been saying a classic valve would cost as much to produce from the beginning. I would love to have my classic valve weigh less also. But not enough to pay much for the same thing I already own. Just lighter.

    People in general think stuff can be made and sold for nothing. Then throw a fit when they find out the fabricator wants to make a little profit.
    Yeah for sure, I was writing mine when you posted yours so I didn't even see it its all good

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Not a ten year old one going for $300 on eBay because nobody lets them go... or there aren't many left?
    They're on drugs. Hyperframes used to pop up pretty often for under $150. I would wager its the one that someone thinks is a Devilmag frame and is shooting for the moon.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    You have been saying a classic valve would cost as much to produce from the beginning.
    .
    I was saying this as well, but saying a complete classic valve would cost as much to make in aluminum, not just the valve body with no internals, reg, on/off etc.

    I'm not complaining, just to be clear, I honestly didn't think just this one peice would be THAT much to produce. Oh well

    Thank you XMT for looking into this.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I was saying this as well, but saying a complete classic valve would cost as much to make in aluminum, not just the valve body with no internals, reg, on/off etc.

    I'm not complaining, just to be clear, I honestly didn't think just this one peice would be THAT much to produce. Oh well

    Thank you XMT for looking into this.
    Well he did just give a rough guess also. Once he looks in to it. No telling what numbers he will come up with as a more firm price range for a full valve or just the front portion.

    And as stated before. My comment was directed to no one directly.

  14. #44
    I dont have an exact price in my head. i would think the front half of the valve could be made and sold at $100 even if atleast 12 people would take one. TK said i could make up to 50 of them.

    Jay

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Well he did just give a rough guess also. Once he looks in to it. No telling what numbers he will come up with as a more firm price range for a full valve or just the front portion.

    And as stated before. My comment was directed to no one directly.
    Just a guess. But I bet the al to do this in will be 30 bux per small chunk on its own. Specialty al is expensive!.

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    I dont have an exact price in my head. i would think the front half of the valve could be made and sold at $100 even if atleast 12 people would take one. TK said i could make up to 50 of them.

    Jay
    I could probably choke that down. Maybe twice. Would depend on the cost of the PT tip.

  17. #47
    I think someone should get a weight of a loaded classic reg back (ready to drop in, seals, spring pack etc all in place) and the front half with no bolt. IMO, just based on feel, without the bolt the back still weighs more than the front. Yes, for the guy with the cap (not everybody can have one or run that setup because those are not available) this mod makes the valve weigh next to nothing... but the guy that wants this that has to use the old reg back and all other parts, this is still $100 or a little more for a couple ounces of weight savings... or, the valve comes complete, now its x valve priced... Id rather not use my mag for a tournament and buy the x valve.

    We already spent $250 to get the classic valve a decade ago, why pay that same price for less product... at least Id get a rail body and grip frame back in the day



    And I was thinking the 7000 series aluminum was more expensive than that black

  18. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    They're on drugs. Hyperframes used to pop up pretty often for under $150. I would wager its the one that someone thinks is a Devilmag frame and is shooting for the moon.
    Not to put up an arguement, but my point is... currently that particular frame is the only electro frame for sale for a mag without building one yourself. And I agree, it will be for sale forever at that price. And ive followed a few auctions that went over $225 for both a booyah and a hyper within the last 3 months

  19. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    I dont have an exact price in my head. i would think the front half of the valve could be made and sold at $100 even if atleast 12 people would take one. TK said i could make up to 50 of them.

    Jay
    Would that include a cap for the back,in case you wanted to run without the reg half?


    Also is a classic valve pneumag automag tournament legal?

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    I think someone should get a weight of a loaded classic reg back (ready to drop in, seals, spring pack etc all in place) and the front half with no bolt.
    Reg = 6.95 oz
    Valve body w/o bolt = 5.8oz
    Bolt = 2.2 oz.

    X Valve body w/o bolt = approx 3 oz. ( 3.70 w/macro fitting)

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Not to put up an arguement, but my point is... currently that particular frame is the only electro frame for sale for a mag without building one yourself. And I agree, it will be for sale forever at that price. And ive followed a few auctions that went over $225 for both a booyah and a hyper within the last 3 months
    There are also VER and E90 frames, but they are in the $400+ range. Anyone that paid $225+ for a Hyper or Booyah , especially a Booyah, frame is doing it wrong. Only way those should be selling for even close to that is if they are the 20bps version of the Hyper, loaded with Lukes extras or they are the Morlock'd versions. I've seen Booyahs seliing for $50 not all that long ago. And they have a reputation for being total crap.

    VER: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-Red-VER-Frame

  22. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker View Post
    Would that include a cap for the back,in case you wanted to run without the reg half?


    Also is a classic valve pneumag automag tournament legal?
    I think its as long as its one pull one ball its legal. I was going to look up rules but decided my tournament play is over anyhow lol...


    One other thing Id like to prepare people for is, if it does come with the cap, now you have to get a GOOD regulator to use, catch 22 here.

    Is it worth getting a full aluminum valve for (lets assume) $225, still need power tube, still need springs, reg nut, spring pack etc etc...

    OR

    Is it worth it to only get a half a valve for $100? If it comes with a cap say? $120?? plus a good regulator, $65-$90, then you still need to buy parts to make the valve half work.

    Its the same price either way you look at it.

  23. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Reg = 6.95 oz
    Valve body w/o bolt = 5.8oz
    Bolt = 2.2 oz.

    X Valve body w/o bolt = approx 3 oz. ( 3.70 w/macro fitting)


    so this is over +/- 2 oz? seems silly

  24. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    There are also VER frames, but they are in the $400+ range. Anyone that paid $225+ for a Hyper or Booyah , especially a Booyah, frame is doing it wrong. Only way those should be selling for even close to that is if they are the 20bps version of the Hyper, loaded with Lukes extras or they are the Morlock'd versions. I've seen Booyahs seliing for $50 not all that long ago. And they have a reputation for being total crap.
    I agree with booyah, but with the availability of boards for damn near nothing now days I figured if you got a frame thats at least set up for a mag and you knew the board sucked, you could just wire in a different board to the clapper right?

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    Is it worth it to only get a half a valve for $100? If it comes with a cap say? $120?? plus a good regulator, $65-$90, then you still need to buy parts to make the valve half work.

    Its the same price either way you look at it.
    While it may not be worth it for everyone, it would be for some and lets face it, this is a niche product. I have all the extras already to make this work for me. So yeah, its worth it. Just for the ability to be able to anodize it. Besides the powertube, bolt etc, all you would need is an on/off with the external reg. No other internals are needed.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    so this is over +/- 2 oz? seems silly
    For some, like me it isnt necessarily the weight as much as it is the ability to get it anodized.

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    While it may not be worth it for everyone, it would be for some and lets face it, this is a niche product. I have all the extras already to make this work for me. So yeah, its worth it. Just for the ability to be able to anodize it. Besides the powertube, bolt etc, all you would need is an on/off with the external reg. No other internals are needed.
    Agreed, considering all the foregrips I like cost about $60 this is well worth it to me. And $120 would be awesome if it had the cap and it was already threaded. I feel you could sell $50 at that price. Add your work on the last two bodies you have done gives people trust in you. I would buy a level 10 plus a reg and be happy.

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    so this is over +/- 2 oz? seems silly
    I'm gonna say about 7oz when it's all said and done vs. a classic valve. I think this idea is golden.

  29. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage reigns View Post
    Agreed, considering all the foregrips I like cost about $60 this is well worth it to me. And $120 would be awesome if it had the cap and it was already threaded. I feel you could sell $50 at that price. Add your work on the last two bodies you have done gives people trust in you. I would buy a level 10 plus a reg and be happy.
    Which has always been my thinking as well.

  30. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage reigns View Post
    I'm gonna say about 7oz when it's all said and done vs. a classic valve. I think this idea is golden.

    How did you come up with this #? He made no implications of even making the cap, he said "I will make the valve section and let people finish them off themselves"

    That means until it gets clarified, you have to use your reg back... so take 5.8 oz of stainless, and minus 3.7 oz that an xvalve weighs (assuming it weighs the same) thats 2 oz.

    I reffered to opbn as being about the only one to see real savings if he used his cap on this... my math is based on the fact XMT has not said he is making caps, at all

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