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Thread: Aluminum Classic Valve

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage reigns View Post
    Never knew the name of the reg but I always have liked the look of the sidewinder (just googled). That may be the one I pick up.
    I don't actually care for the newer one much, but I lucked out and found an older model. The great thing about them is they have a 360* swivel on the input.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Oh you are talking about getting rid of the side input? Yeah, no thanks on that. I would still want a side input. I was thinking just boring that through so that it hit the center passage which would now be 1/8" or so and just using a gauge or plug to plug up the back.
    Oh I would be good with that as well. Only way I will get my first option is if I paid even more for mine to be done that way.. if he would even do it. And depending on when this comes up for money talks work. We will see what my petty cash is then. Right now my pb fund is low. New to me scuba tank came in today.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Right now my pb fund is low.
    Trust me. I know. And beside the possibility of this, I know of at least one more neato thing possibly coming out that I have been dreaming of for some time, so I have to keep that in mind. Might see an "OPBN FIRE SALE" in the months to come.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I'm not an airsmith, so I don't really know if it would or not. There is some open area inside the cap. I wasnt sure if this acted like a volume chamber. There is some formula for figuring this out. Either way, it wouldn't think it would require that much higher input. But I really don't know. My thinking that you already have the are between the VASA and valve and since the center air passage is now 1/8" instead of the 1/16 or so that it is now, it would make up for any volume lost. Currently my setup is requiring about 575 psi or so from the inline reg to get FPS in the proper range.
    remember, the air from the reg goes into the valve chamber and is shut off by the on/off. the air in the cap, as little as it would be, is regulated, but not used to fire.

  5. #95
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    So the air in the chamber in front of the on/off is what pushes the paint? So the volume behind the on/off doesn't matter?

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I don't actually care for the newer one much, but I lucked out and found an older model. The great thing about them is they have a 360* swivel on the input.
    Do the new one swivel also? What's the difference? I'm excited!!!!!

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage reigns View Post
    Do the new one swivel also? What's the difference? I'm excited!!!!!
    Yes.

  8. #98
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    So the air in the chamber in front of the on/off is what pushes the paint? So the volume behind the on/off doesn't matter?
    That would be correct. When the on off is down, or the gun is cocked, the air is charged in the entire assembly. From the power tube o ring to the cap. The on off gets actuated, cuts the air flow and trips the sear to release the bolt and all the air in the front chamber, then the cycle repeats when the trigger is let off...

    This also makes me wonder, although I doubt it because you still have the restrictive on off... would this help the valve recharge any faster than a standard full valve?

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cokrkilr View Post
    This also makes me wonder, although I doubt it because you still have the restrictive on off... would this help the valve recharge any faster than a standard full valve?
    Theoretically, having more volume on demand for the initial inrush will help, but you would need quite a large reserve volume to make a difference. The on-off is really the biggest restriction in the classic valve design.

    The low pressure air has to travel farther to get to the front chamber using the remote regulator in this setup than with the AIR mounted directly on the valve and has more potential for restrictions. Therefore, the final top-up has the potential to take longer if everything isn't working really well.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  10. #100
    Got ya, that's what I figured

  11. #101
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    As a quick update. I spoke with Deus Machina and he may only have enough material to make 3-4 ofcaps and may not have access to facilities to make any more for the foreseeable future. We may need to discuss whether XMT can make the caps or if we want to see if the idea of an alternate design is feasible.

  12. #102
    Making the back caps is not a problem but if i did them i would like to add a burst disc (like the ones used on HPA tanks) to the design for safety.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    Making the back caps is not a problem but if i did them i would like to add a burst disc (like the ones used on HPA tanks) to the design for safety.
    What about the design idea mentioned earlier? Seems like most of the people interested are possibly wanting it for an external reg useage. What about something that has just a side input and a 1/8" straight through from the back to the on/off? I know I definitely don't want a burste disc sticking out of the back of mine, but I guess you could thread it for that and we could use at our own risk?

    Edit* I aren't burst discs 1/8" NPT? If so, works for me....
    Last edited by OPBN; 03-21-2013 at 01:00 PM.

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    What about the design idea mentioned earlier? Seems like most of the people interested are possibly wanting it for an external reg useage. What about something that has just a side input and a 1/8" straight through from the back to the on/off? I know I definitely don't want a burste disc sticking out of the back of mine, but I guess you could thread it for that and we could use at our own risk?

    Edit* I aren't burst discs 1/8" NPT? If so, works for me....
    If this is going to be basically just a capped front half I am out. I will use what I have for my project. I will need to buy the cap. But not the front valve half.

    If this is a sole operation front half though I am still interested. He can put a co2 bust disk in the back for his liability protection. We can remove it for a gauge or whatever we want to fit our needs. Works for me.

    If this

  15. #105
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    I don't see a reason it shouldn't be able to be either. All the milling on the front is the same.

  16. #106
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    Burst disk on the valve is completely unnecessary.

  17. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    the classic powertube tips are welded on.
    Acttually they are threaded on and welded (as a safety precaution and not all arewelded) to keep them from unscrewing. I have opened many to devolumize for efficiency.
    ......You know you want one!!

  18. #108
    Id be in for a cap as long as the finish is smooth and not crosshatched, it could be tapped for a gauge or not. Doesn't matter to me

  19. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carnage reigns View Post
    OK let me explain the problem. I have been told that in the UWL you can not use, X-valves, RT Valve or any of the like except classic valves. I believe this is the rule for all competitive play. Classic valves are heavier therefore backloading a ULE marker. This is the reason I believe there would be a market for an aluminum Classic valve.
    Looking at the rules off their website, it just states that you are limited to 10 bps and no ramping. I don't see anything about valves with the capacity to RT.

    I thought I remembered more rules like the type of hoppers you could use and how many electronic markers you could have on one team.

    I say, save your money, use your xvalve and don't set it up to RT.

  20. #110
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    This is my cap'd valve and I think it works great. Deus polished it and tapped the back per my request. I would like to see a valve made with this style cap built in as a solid unit.


  21. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by zondo View Post
    Looking at the rules off their website, it just states that you are limited to 10 bps and no ramping. I don't see anything about valves with the capacity to RT.

    I thought I remembered more rules like the type of hoppers you could use and how many electronic markers you could have on one team.

    I say, save your money, use your xvalve and don't set it up to RT.
    You can't use hoppers like clips and the Qloader. I forgot about BPS. You cannot have the capabilities to go over 15 BPS. It has to be locked at (I think) 12.5 BPS. There is a rule on how much paint you can carry I think. Valves that can RT, when used to RT is referred to them as bounce and they are all strict on no bounce. I am not sure about how many electros you can use though.

  22. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freedy500 View Post
    You can't use hoppers like clips and the Qloader. I forgot about BPS. You cannot have the capabilities to go over 15 BPS. It has to be locked at (I think) 12.5 BPS. There is a rule on how much paint you can carry I think. Valves that can RT, when used to RT is referred to them as bounce and they are all strict on no bounce. I am not sure about how many electros you can use though.
    That sounds like its worded where the governing body of said tournament can dictate for themselves if they want to allow an rt in the game or not. I hate vague wording.

  23. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freedy500 View Post
    You can't use hoppers like clips and the Qloader. I forgot about BPS. You cannot have the capabilities to go over 15 BPS. It has to be locked at (I think) 12.5 BPS. There is a rule on how much paint you can carry I think. Valves that can RT, when used to RT is referred to them as bounce and they are all strict on no bounce. I am not sure about how many electros you can use though.
    I remember reading that when UWL first came on the scene but I don't see it in the 2013 rules.

    Five man:
    http://playuwl.com/wp-content/upload...-UWL-Rules.pdf
    11. Marker
    11.01 Will be capped at 10 balls per second with no ramping.
    12. Other Equipment
    12.01 Players may carry any number of pouches, clips or loaders.
    12.02 Open and Tactical teams may use radios. Pro Teams can not
    12.03 Players may carry extra constant air tanks.
    12.05 Two live players may exchange equipment. A dead player may not exchange/leave equipment 12.06 Vests and pouches may not be constructed in such a fashion that they constitute padding. 12.07 live players may not trade equipment with dead players
    It reads the same for the Ten Man as well:
    http://playuwl.com/wp-content/upload...-UWL-RULES.pdf

    But in Ten man it does state that you can have a heavy gunner that can shoot at any rate of fire.

  24. #114
    I would think as long as you could show them the valve does not bounce they'd be OK with it?

    Like letting one of the tournament operators test the gun for it?

  25. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by zondo
    I say, save your money, use your xvalve and don't set it up to RT.
    Thanks for the input. Some of us want this for other purposes. If you're not interested, cool. No need to spend your efforts trying to kill a project that others may want.
    Last edited by OPBN; 03-22-2013 at 05:05 AM.

  26. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyJay View Post
    I would like to see a valve made with this style cap built in as a solid unit.
    This is the direction I would like to see this go.

  27. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Thanks for the input. Some of us want this for other purposes. If you're not interested, cool. No need to spend your efforts trying to kill a project that others may want.
    I think his comment was due to the original poster wanting a lighter aluminum cap for his classic valve because he thought he wasn't able to use a retro valve because it was reactive, which was the original topic of the thread. The thread has only morphed into the production of a capped valve.

  28. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    I think his comment was due to the original poster wanting a lighter aluminum cap for his classic valve because he thought he wasn't able to use a retro valve because it was reactive, which was the original topic of the thread. The thread has only morphed into the production of a capped valve.
    Could very well be, but I know either Zondo, could be Ando as I get their posts mixed up, has made it really clear in the past that they find the capped valve mod unnecessary and have spoken out against it. If that's not the case, no worries. This is something though that I have asked about getting done for a couple of years now and with it seeming like a possibility, not looking for anyone to spend their efforts talking people interested in it out of it.

  29. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Could very well be, but I know either Zondo, could be Ando as I get their posts mixed up, has made it really clear in the past that they find the capped valve mod unnecessary and have spoken out against it. If that's not the case, no worries. This is something though that I have asked about getting done for a couple of years now and with it seeming like a possibility, not looking for anyone to spend their efforts talking people interested in it out of it.
    I don't see this really being a seller just for the lightness. But for the few that want it for customs projects or to shed all the weight possible off the gun. It could work out great for them. I'm gonna just sit back and see what he comes up with.

  30. #120
    In my opinion, this thread needs to die and a poll needs to be taken. I really only see one main person, and couple others with their toes in the water on "wanting" this done... that's 3/50, that doesn't pay the bills...

    All I want is a cap for $20-$30 or however much they are... if that shaves 7oz of reg off the back and moves the weight forward with a different reg I'm all for it, id rather have a good balance than worry about weight... if the guns harder to manipulate that's when you feel the heft.

    I understand, it can be annodized and matched etc, but its still a classic valve half... for an unknown price, just guesstimates.

    But back to my original thought, I say a poll be taken, for 100% I would buy this, not, well maybe if it has blah blah... just assume its only the valve front.

    And make a second poll on caps as well.

    Edit: I'm also going to bet in the end whether the design ends up with a cap or one built it its around $150
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-22-2013 at 09:19 AM.

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