How to grind down .750 on/off pin?/Serious shootdown with emag onoff in classic valve
Well, I put the on off pin and an x-valve on/off assembly into my classic valve. yes, it did make the trigger pull much lighter.
Unfortunately, it resulted in serious shoot down. Can't figure that out.
Anyways, I figure I can either figure that out, or grind the pin down to .712 for my emag valve. What is the best way to grind that down so that there are no burs, or what is causing that shootdown?
Can you describe what you observed that you're calling shootdown?
As far as grinding the pin, if you do have the gray grinding wheel (usually comes standard) with a Dremel tool, use that with a pair of needle-nose pliers to hold the pin. It will likely get hot. Just grind flat, and when you are getting close to your desired length put the pin at an angle to smoothe out the sharp edges a tiny bit. The gray wheel isn't very coarse, so I didn't get any burrs when doing it that way.
While shooting the trigger pull became noticeably lighter while the sound coming from the barrel became noticeably quieter.
I think you may have an issue with air getting to the valve. Not the valve its self. When I first set up my pneumag I had a classic valve and I could rip it with and rtp/emag on off. And it had a .750 pin length (that's factory length in the classic)
Also, have you shot.this over a chrono? Or are you assuming its shooting down just by sound alone?
I have never made mine shorter than .740 on similar set ups. Trigger pull is noticeably lighter and the velocity is good.
Don't know what changed, but now it's just chuffing if I fire it faster than 1 bps. I am using a classic valve with level X that is tuned, at least for the regular on off.