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Thread: Slowing down an X Valve

  1. #1
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    Slowing down an X Valve

    I have an X valve coming my way and I want to eliminate the RTing effect. I am going to be running lvl 7. I may get a cap made for the X, but until then what do I need to do? Where should I start with my adjustable tank output pressure etc. It is coming with the RT on/off.

    I think it should be simple, but I tend to overthink things...and I am cheap

  2. #2
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    i would put new on/off orings, measure the on/off pin length. thats at least a start

  3. #3
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    well the ULT was designed to eliminate the rt effect and only costs $30ish bucks. other than that a longer on/off pin and or a lower (but not too low!) tank output and that should get you the desired effect. Also single trigger frames tend to be harder to RT with.

  4. #4
    I was going to say what squid said almost exactly... you could also pneu it for about the same cost as gettin a decent single trigger frame, with just enough tinker to wet your whistle. That's 100% getting rid of it, unless you turn the lpr down for some full auto

  5. #5
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    Since you are using an adjustable tank and a level 7 bolt, you can lower the tank output pressure to about 750psi and reduce the RT effect.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
    I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by halB View Post
    I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.
    Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed

  8. #8
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    I would suggest pneuing it. The other option is to lower your tank output pressure.

    Personally I find it easier to RT holding higher up on a double trigger, about where your top finger would be. So I'm not sure that getting a single trigger frame would help that much.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by halB View Post
    I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.
    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed
    the high rates of fire associated with the ULT are attained by shimming the on/off assembly and effectively shortening the pin length. If you do not want any RT effect simply remove the shims from your ULT.

  10. #10
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    Can I Pneu it?


  11. #11
    Depends on how much time you'd wanna put into it. I didn't know it was that frame.

    It would be super tight in there but you may get away with using the.... I forgot the name.... not the msv2, but the smaller 3 way valve? MAP3 keeps coming to mind but I don't think that's it lol.

    Edit, its SMAV-3
    Last edited by Cokrkilr; 04-05-2013 at 01:55 PM.

  12. #12
    Give it to me and I'll give you a Classic valve.........for free!
    AO Feedback |*| MCB Feedback |*| Please ship to me in Canada using USPS (US shipping also an option...US Parcel Pickup)

  13. #13
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    Thats all it is worth to you...a $50 classic valve? It would be better left on a cocker.

  14. #14
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    Seriously though...

    I would be willing to consider a deal with an EXPERT in the Pneu conversion. Hit me up with a PM if you have the proper milling and pneumatic background. I am not looking for a dremel tool botch job. I would like to complete any milling before sending these off for an anno.

  15. #15
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    So I got a body and the X valve. I am using my lvl7 ANS bolt and powertube bits from my classic valve and it is tight.

    I am guessing that I need a bigger powertube spacer. I want to say it had a 220 on it? It worked great with my classic valve, but so tight that I get bolt stick.

    I slid only the powertube tip on the bolt and it got stuck coming off. Any advice?
    Last edited by TimmyJay; 04-25-2013 at 09:21 PM.

  16. #16
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    you are using the lvl 7 powertube tip correct?

  17. #17
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    The powertube tip should fit all bolts without any sticking. If it sticks then there must be a burr somewhere or it is out of round.

  18. #18
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    I got a new gauge on my dynaflow and it is currently around 500 psi. I had to turn it down as the pressure was well over the new 600psi gauge I put on. That would explain the reactiveness along with the RT on/off. I plan to trade my RT on/off for the modified RT on/off that BT has and see if that helps eliminate the reactive trigger. I put in a new spring and powertube oring. Oiled it up and everything cycles like a champ. I still want to change out the powertube tip and/or bolt just in case.

    What is the lowest pressure to have a properly functioning valve? AGD's site states 800 then I read about 400-450psi and then I saw something about 375? If the mag fires at (350psi?) then I would think 450 is about as low as you would want to ever consider. I hope to hit a chrono tomorrow and see where I am for fps as well.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyJay View Post
    I got a new gauge on my dynaflow and it is currently around 500 psi. I had to turn it down as the pressure was well over the new 600psi gauge I put on. That would explain the reactiveness along with the RT on/off. I plan to trade my RT on/off for the modified RT on/off that BT has and see if that helps eliminate the reactive trigger. I put in a new spring and powertube oring. Oiled it up and everything cycles like a champ. I still want to change out the powertube tip and/or bolt just in case.

    What is the lowest pressure to have a properly functioning valve? AGD's site states 800 then I read about 400-450psi and then I saw something about 375? If the mag fires at (350psi?) then I would think 450 is about as low as you would want to ever consider. I hope to hit a chrono tomorrow and see where I am for fps as well.

    The number I saw floated around was at about 650, the RT behaves just like a classic.

    When I used an adjustable tank (Nitro Duck X-Stream) I had mine turned to around 725 which kept all RT effects pretty much tuned out/down.
    "Accuracy by aiming."


    Definitely not on the A-Team.

  20. #20
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    A mag with a level 7 bolt operates around 350 - 375psi. That number could be higher if you use a barrel with a short control bore and lots of porting. A level 10 mag operates around 500 - 550psi.

    A level 7 mag should have around 550 psi coming into the valve to maintain a good flow rate, and even more if it has lots of porting. A level 10 mag should have about 700psi or more.

  21. #21
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    This mag is still really snappy at 500 psi. It must be due to the RT on/off. After my first pull I can lightly tweek my finger and it feels kinda bouncey. Sounds like I am in the ballpark so the chrono will be the real test. I am currently using a 14 inch freak with a proper fit insert.

    Thanks for the continued support.

  22. #22
    There's the chamber pressure, and there's the AIR input pressure, which I think athomas was referring to.

    At 500 PSI, you might starve the gun as the AIR might be a flow restriction.

    You would want to gut the AIR and go direct input to get around this, but I think this is not advisable as the full->empty output swing of a single HPA regulator will be too great.

    So you're left with trying to feed the AIR at a high enough input pressure so it's not restricting you. I would just bump it to 700.

  23. #23
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    I hit the chrono today and I had to turn it up to 600+ to get anything consistant. It is still all over the board 255-300 range. Too many things to trouble shoot so I think I will get a new ninja reg and see if that helps. I think I need a new bolt too.

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