medium spring, but will change it to red and test
medium spring, but will change it to red and test
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I thought the red spring was the medium spring?
Gold/black = shortest, the "God" spring because it works
Red = medium, best for drop-in use with L10 bolts
Custom-trimmed Silver = long spring, needs to be custom trimmed for maximum softness of the L10 bolt
sometimes I'm an idiot...
i thought the cut spring was only in the old kits
I may have missplaced my red spring... I could be wrong. Are you sure its red and not clear or invisible? Lol
Ok apparently I SUCK at tuning lvl 10s.
I have the long spring and the short spring, tried both. broke balls.
I eliminated all variables and held the ball half way in the chamber and shot.
it broke with ALL the following combos:
-long spring, xvalve, eff mod
-short spring, xvalve, eff mod
-long spring, xvalve, no eff
-short spring xvalve, no eff
-short spring, classic, eff mod
-long spring, classic, eff mod
-short pring, classic, no eff
-long spring, classic, no eff
then I put everything in my backup mag that has benchy 2x, AM rail, AM body, crownpoint barrel and tried the same list with same results.
I followed the lvl 10 setup to the letter with both kits i have
but i did learn how to do a really neat trick
Im so sick of cleaning barrels
Last edited by BTAutoMag; 04-12-2013 at 07:28 PM.
I'm thinking I might be shooting hot. im picking up a chrono tomorrow from the field to see.
Once up on a time I found a bad LX bolt , the problem was the hole thru the center of the bolt was not drilled all the way down to intersect with the side vent hole , Does it vent when it hits the ball ?
Are you using the largest carrier before it leaks down the barrel with out shooting?
Id agree with the carrier size... my bolt sits so loose I expect it to leak every time I air it up, but it doesnt.
does the lvl 10 work on something other than paint? say for instance your tongue
No but really, how hard of a "hit" does the bolt give a swab thats a little bit away from the bolt face? I can just stuff the swab down the barrel up to the bolt face in mine and shoot and it takes 5-6 shots to even move it enough to do a full fire.
If you are making sure the ball is in the breach when firing, then it isn't chopping, which is what the level 10 is designed to prevent. It sounds like it is breaking balls when firing, which is a totally different problem. The bolt is getting up to full speed and force when you are getting your breaks, which indicates that it may be barrel related.
Ball breaks other than chops are caused by different scenarios such as:
1) the ball rolling forward too far which allows the bolt to slam into it at full force
2) the barrel being too tight for the paint being used
3) a detent sticking too far into the breach or perhaps broken and tearing the ball
How brittle is your paint? How large or small is your paint? Is it small enough to fit the barrel without any force?
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
I've also heard of issues where people who don't have the goalie on there bolt where paint is rolling back a bit and the next ball comes partially in the breach. With the force of the hopper it may be to much causing the ball to break.
i would start by changing your oring in the carrier.
starting with the largest carrier if it leaks upon airing it up move down until it no longer leaks.
use the red spring with the eff. insert, if not i would use the long spring.
are you using a ult or rt on/off?
im trying to help you narrow it down to one possibility.
pull your detents out
if you have a rt on/off i would use that to tune your lvl10.
change the oring in the carrier to a brand new oring
do you have a rail bushing?
were you shooting hot?
is your bolt smooth?( aka nicks or burs from hitting the detents)
have you tried differnt paint?
At this point either shooting hot or a bad batch of paint come to mind.
ok, took my lvl 10 apart and replaced the oring... went up 4 sizes. then installed the long spring. i got a chrono and tuned in around 270ish. got some wallmart stinger paint and let it rip for a hopper...
broke 4 balls
took my barrel off and they broke in the last inch of the barrel and put a very long scratch down the side of my bob long assasin 14" barrel. but no breach breaks
so I shelved the other 300 balls of the stinger and loaded up with graffiti...
no breaks through 3 hoppers. still not sure if everything tuned with the lvl 10 well or not as its hitting the squeegee to hard for my liking but im sick of cleaning a soupy breach so im not gonna try a half load test. I am going to play with it tomorrow. conditions are spose to to be 40s with a chance of rain. I'll be reffing most of the day though so i just wont play when its raining
everyone cross your fingers
well I left my wallet at home an it was miserable out today so I didnt play with my gun...
but one of my buds from the local semi pro team was oogling over it... so he played with it. he did have some complaints about it which I will list:
-It was 35* out and lukes frame absorbed all of that
-My mag is too small and compact for him
-The trigger is too touchy
oh, and he's never seen a mech out shoot shoot a prophecy but no broken paint. apperently we switched from graffiti cause its retarded and made in Taiwan. We shoot an Empire custom blend that my mag loves!