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Thread: Help me bust a Jesus on these MAGS!!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    17

    Help me bust a Jesus on these MAGS!!!!

    I need some help. I have collected a huge number of mag parts from my family and friends. I have 4 valves, and 3 everything else. I would love to get at least 2 of them up and running. Only problem is I don't have any experience with mags, none of the valves are the same, and they haven't been used in at least 8 years. (Okay, so 3 problems) How do i make these guns work?

    Lets start with a Valve list

    -retro valve 68 micromag - As far as i can tell a complete valve with some of a level ten kit. There are enough parts that it ran at one time, but i don't know if there is enough to adjust it.

    -68 automag classic with a hurricane valve - Seems to be complete. Probably a lvl 7 bolt and power tube components. It has a .215 spacer.

    - 68 automag classic - seems to have a level 10 kit similar to the micromag, some there but not complete. the inside of the spacer is very scratched up. Not the part that contacts the inside of the power tube, but the center. One star left on the valve.

    - Minimag A.I.R. - valve is all here, the rubber is completely shot though. probably a lvl 6 based on my limited knowledge of the power tube tip. 4 stars left on this guy.


    Plan of Action
    I have ordered a couple of "AGD Automag & Minimag Complete Parts Kits" on line. I figure replacing the rubber is a good place to start.
    I also emailed AGD to see about their star program, and if they will still honor it. I have done some research on normal trouble shooting for mags. I dug up an old expansion chamber, I don't have a HPA tank with a high enough output to run a mag yet, so I'm going to try CO2 to start. Can anyone give me a basic run through of how to set the gun up? Even a link to a thorough trouble shooting page would help. I've found some good ones in the past, but they elude me now.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    441
    Here's link to level-7 manual. It has good trouble shooting section. http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/Images/automan.pdf

    Here's guide to lvl-10 http://www.automags.org/forums/conte...154-level-10_1

    Those should get you started.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    17
    This is what i was talking about. http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...ting-tips.html

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    a wretched hive of scum and villainy
    Posts
    556
    first step is put some oil in the asa before screwing the tank on
    mags love to be lubricated

    dont use CO2 on that ReTro valve, they are designed for hpa only
    the other valves will be fine with CO2 as long as you keep the liquid CO2 out, use a remote or vertical bottle setup if you can

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,801
    If that minimag air valve has stars on it. It will be a level 7. My pre star era valve was a level 7. And I'm sure they didn't backtrack.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    17

    One More Time

    AND THEN THERE WAS ONE! thanks for all the good info guys. I got the 68 classic up and running with a level 7 setup. I am hoping to get at least one more out of all these parts. I am limited on spacers, luckily I had one that worked. Where is a good place to get spacers, or level 10 feed tube o-rings. I have 2 level 10 kits, and 4 spacers. Probably enough to make one work. I don't know if the rubber will hold up though.

    Last but not least, I have a level 10 bolt that separated. I know they are milled in 2 separate pieces, but can i reattach one that split? I uploaded a photo.

    bolts.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    441
    You can get parts from Tunamart, link is at the top.

    I think there's a guide how to repair level-10 bolt in the link I posted previously. If not, just search here and you should be able to find it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    4,491
    As mentioned, that Retro Micro is only able to use HPA. The Retro valves were made to have a very high recharge rate and with 850+psi are capable of high rates of fire. Out of what you have, it may be the one most worth getting up and running. I have purchaseds numberous used Mags and most times all they need is a good cleaning and few drops of oil in the asa and they are good to go. However, people do use the wrong oil at times and destroy the O-rings, so you have to check for this.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,348
    All mini-mags were level 7 as were any valve that had stars.

    You can get the level 10 carriers and orings from AGD directly or through one of the distributors here on AO. Since you have a few already, you only need a couple to round out your collection to give you enough to cover all possible sizes.

    The level 10 bolt can be put back together. You will have to clean the stem off and clean out the pocket that the stem fits into. Use a good quality metal bonding glue. Loctite has some good products for that. Apply the glue and press fit the stem back into the body of the bolt. Let it dry for a day. The correct length is 2.010", plus you have a good one there for reference.

    When you get your parts kits, get some level 10 bolt springs. Bolt springs wear out and need replacing.


    Here is a level 10 tuning guide to help you out:

    The carriers are sized using lines and dots. Each line represents a 1 and a series of dots represents 0.5. Eg; 2 lines and dots equals size 2.5. Carriers range from size 0 to 3.5 but most people only have from 0 to 2.5 and most new kits have even less.

    When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

    For carrier sizing:

    Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

    Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

    For spring adjustment:

    You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definitely clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    17
    After a wild goose chase, I basically a second one running. Need to buy a on off assembly to have them both work at the same time. I had a reactor on off that look like someone threw it under a running lawnmower. I'm just gonna put a stock one back in it. If tuna marts website ever decides to let me give them my money.
    Last edited by The Dawg; 04-16-2013 at 09:53 PM. Reason: mispelling

  11. #11
    Just PM Tuna on here or shoot him an email ( tuna something or other at comcast... do a forum search and it will come up I'm sure). Last I heard his site wasn't so much "e-commerce" as it was "online catalogue". Once he knows what you need, though, he'll hook you up pronto.

    Edit: apparently the comcast is the old email. Saw this in Tuna's sig line in a different thread:

    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

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