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some people have used the Phantom hardline from CCI(from the valve to a vert). i have a custom set of SS hardline that Doc Nickle made on a custom cocker. i have heard that you can use breakline, but i don't know the fittings used to attach it to the gun.
though the hardline looks great; you have the choice of easy to use/easy to find and replace marcoline, easy to use/easy to find SS braided hose, or the hardline. that's the biggest thing about it and why its not used more often.
the one thing with the hardline is that you have to take it off the gun in order. you can't drop the valve in the field, if you need to clean the bolt off if it gets covered in paint,
Are you talking about the rigid stainless airline like the upper line in this pic?
<a href="http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/SidedraftDats/media/Automags/ClassicRTLeft_zpsf3453b06.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Automags/ClassicRTLeft_zpsf3453b06.jpg" border="0" alt="Classic RT Before Upgrades (L) photo ClassicRTLeft_zpsf3453b06.jpg"/></a>
If so; then you can get the compression fittings from McMaster Carr
Part # 8239k73 For a 90 deg fitting
or
Part# 8239K13 For a straight fitting
The proper fittings plus a piece of 3/16" Stainless tubing and you're set to make your own.
You'll want to have a tubing cutter too, but those are available cheaply at most any hardware store.
There is another way to do hardlines, using the A/N type flare fittings. That requires a special flare tool though, and those are kinda spendy.
someone correct me if I am wrong, but I thought all hardlines have to be flared for them to seal???
The flared end helps hold the line in place in the fitting in high pressure situations. Hardlines don't need to be flared to seal, though. As long as there is a sealing edge, it will hold air. Often that edge is an oring and compression fitting.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
When I ordered from them I wasn't sure which wall thickness tubing to use so I ordered a couple different ones.
89785K299 is 0.020" wall thickness for an id of 0.148"
89785K217 is 0.028" wall thickness for an id of 0.132"
I don't remember which one I ended up using but I can look when I get home this evening and post it up here.
Just checked and the one I used was the .028 wall (89785K217).
I popped the hardline loose on the RT pictured above and measured it just to be sure. According to my calipers it measures the same as the tubing I used... so if it was good enough for AGD to send it out on their markers, its good enough to plumb up my gear. Imho
so I was looking on McMaster and noticed that they have aluminum 6061 tubing, anyone know if that can be used and which one/thickness to get? and what fittings for it? I was looking for both so I can anodizing with marker.
Check pressure ratings. And when in doubt. Call. We use McMaster at work all the time. Always great to deal with.
I told the girl what I was using it for, and she chose the .35 wall for me. Probably worried I would blow myself up. They tell you the PSI rating next to the part number.
I'd pick some up off ya if it's cheap, how many feed did you get?
This setup has only existed for about 18 hours now, so it hasn't passed the test of time. I initially had some issues with sealing, but shoving in 3 o-rings in the ccm fittings fixed it right up. A Ninja SHP tank still caused some leaks, so more tweaking will be necessary if that's what you want to use. I need to get my tanks filled and get back to testing.
did you or anyone else happen to look at the easy-bend aluminum tubing, can be bent by hand and its the same spec thickness as the one you got. but you can get 10ft for under $20 and 25 for under 22. it is a different aluminum 3033 so for anodizing I don't know if it would come out the same color as the rest of the marker that is 6061.
For me, the 6061 was a significant factor and having rigid tubing should help maintain a clean appearance. Hand-bendable may be a viable option though.
This is what happens when you have a necronomicon and too much free time. Poor threads get dragged back to the living...
For anyone wanting to do this, here's some updated info. The McMaster number for the 1/4" OD 6061 Al has been superseded by 89965K441.
Also, if you want stainless instead of aluminum, 89785K824 works fantastically with 2 o-rings in each CCM fitting.
Specs:
89965K441 - 6061 Aluminum, 1/4" OD, 0.049" wall, 0.152" ID)
89785K824 - 314 Stainless, 1/4" OD, 0.035" wall, 0.18" ID)
Anyone have the Mcmaster # for the macro fittings? I THINK you can buy them there but it's been a while.
you mean compression fittings like on the rt classic? yes, mcmaster has them, if that's what you want to use. they are like $15 each though. maybe 12-13 on ebay when i last looked. i'll dig up some links later for you.
but i thought the option shown here was to just use 1/4" OD tubing and a regular macroline fitting (or ccm fitting)?
Do you mean the classic nickel plated brass fittings?
Non-swivel ($3.06/ea)
51495K234 - 90 Degree Elbow for 1/4" Tube OD x 1/8 NPT Male
Swivel ($3.47/ea)
51495K214 - Swivel 90 Degree Elbow for 1/4" Tube OD x 1/8 NPT Male
Correction: I think that's what it should be. I have so many from various part outs and repairs, I embarrasingly don't actually remember the OD of macro. It IS 1/4" right?
If you want compression fittings like Cyco mentioned, here are the numbers from up-thread for 3/16" tube. Just checked them, still correct:
For the 1/4" tube I used, it's 8239K36 for the 90deg and 8239K16 for the straight. The 90degs are ~$15 like Cyco said, the straight are just under $10.
Last edited by UncleStasiu; 09-24-2014 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Admission of idiocy, and added info
THERE they are, thank you sir.
Great info. This project is on my bucket list.
How much did you guys pay for shipping on the hard line from mcmaster