Custom Q-Loader Plumbing *Updated*

[Levi]

Here is an update on where I'm at with this:

I have a total of 3 pods of paint through the configuration in the first post.

Pod # 1 Using Draxus Bronze Blaze: Fed perfectly fine, no chops but I did have one barrel break because the paint was crappy (I tried the paint in 4 different markers and had barrel breaks with all of them)

Pod # 2 Using All Star paint: Fed perfect, no breaks, no chops Approx 90 degrees outside when I did this one.

Pod # 3 Using All Star Paint: I shot this one immediately after #2. I had left the pod sitting in direct sun for 45 minutes before I shot it. The outside of the pod measured 105.4 deg. at the point I used it. This one fed perfectly fine, no breaks but I did have one I would call a "leaker" meaning that it did not full on break, but was leaking just a little fill down the barrel and one small spot in an elbow.

On to my current configuration:

I redesigned my socket to elbow adapter to have two o-rings. It stayed in place just fine with the single o-ring, the two o-rings make it more rigid side to side though, so it won't be as likely to move if I knock it against a bunker or tree.






I modified the feed guide to hold the ball gate in place under my adapter. I just cut off the "tube" part of it leaving what amounts to a black plastic washer.







I found that there was a nub molded into the Q socket that was preventing the feed guide from sitting squarely in the feedneck. I sanded this nub down until the feed guide and my adapter fit without a gap.




I also made up the horizontal feed tube piece out of aluminum.












I've put one pod of All Star through this setup so far. The entire pod fed without any problems whatsoever.

The one thing i don't like about the aluminum horizontal feed tube is that it makes it more difficult to take apart for cleaning. I have a couple ideas on how to modify the ends of the feed tube to alleviate this problem. I will be trying these out soon.

[need4reebs]

whoo whee thats lookin Sa WeeT!!!

maybe you can find a few quick release screws or some thumb screws to make taking tha q-loader off for cleaning??

[Levi]

whoo whee thats lookin Sa WeeT!!!

maybe you can find a few quick release screws or some thumb screws to make taking tha q-loader off for cleaning??

Thanks, I'm really starting to like how this Mag feels in my hands!

I like the thumbscrew idea, I'm sure somebody sells some this size.

[need4reebs]

Thanks, I'm really starting to like how this Mag feels in my hands!

I like the thumbscrew idea, I'm sure somebody sells some this size.

easy..hit up tha hard ware store, get some socket screw head caps and a few stand off spacers and make your own thumb screws.

when i had my tippman A-5 w/flatline barrel i made some to make taking the flatline barrel easy to take off for cleaning. also did this for a few feed necks as well....they are with screws, bolts, nuts, and washers

hope that helps?

[Dayspring]

That aluminum feed tube also eliminated a weak spot in the feed system - you won't break any paint if you take an unlucky shot in the tube.

Nice work!

[Levi]

That aluminum feed tube also eliminated a weak spot in the feed system - you won't break any paint if you take an unlucky shot in the tube.

Nice work!

It's also going to be easier to clean than the corrugated Q Loader hose in the event that something does end up breaking in there.

[Levi]

easy..hit up tha hard ware store, get some socket screw head caps and a few stand off spacers and make your own thumb screws.

Good idea, I'm going to try that.

[uv_halo]

Here is an update on where I'm at with this...
I modified the feed guide to hold the ball gate in place under my adapter. I just cut off the "tube" part of it leaving what amounts to a black plastic washer...

I found that there was a nub molded into the Q socket that was preventing the feed guide from sitting squarely in the feedneck. I sanded this nub down until the feed guide and my adapter fit without a gap...

The one thing i don't like about the aluminum horizontal feed tube is that it makes it more difficult to take apart for cleaning. I have a couple ideas on how to modify the ends of the feed tube to alleviate this problem. I will be trying these out soon.

I really like this- it's looking really good.

I did the same thing to my 'top hat' ball guide- I assumed you had already done that.

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

[Levi]

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

I think you're right about this. I haven't had any feeding problems yet, but if I do this will be the first area I will be looking at.

I can always countour the inside of my adapter and what's left of the ball guide if I need to.

[GoatBoy]

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

If we're all talking about the same thing, I think its actually just a molding error. Never attribute to design what can be attributed to poor craftsmanship?

[uv_halo]

If we're all talking about the same thing, I think its actually just a molding error. Never attribute to design what can be attributed to poor craftsmanship?

I seriously doubt it. Just to be clear, Levi posted a pic after he dremeled the tab off. It's a couple milimeters thick, about 5mm wide and about 5mm tall. When the top hat is pushed all the way down to it, it cants in the same direction as the balls leaving the pod (if you unlock an unsocketed, wound and loaded pod, you see that they don't exit at 90deg (to the central axis of the pod).

Levi, I suspect that the orientation is more important for those using the stock corrigated tubing as the balls would press first against the inner lip of the tophat and then against the side of the tubing. You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

[rukh013]

Just to be clear, Levi... You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

He he

Did you make a feedneck adapter as well or is it just press fit?

[uv_halo]

He he

Did you make a feedneck adapter as well or is it just press fit?

That's a good question for Levi. Do the ULE Warp bodies have fixed stovepipes or are they threaded? The Qloader 90 Elbows he's using require a flange on the stovepip to clamp around. If the ULE bodies stovepipe is removable, I don't think it would be much for Levi to make his own stovepipe with the necessary flange.

My Ion's Qloader plumbing went like this: Socket -> 'custom adapter'-> QL 90deg elbow -> Corrigated Tubing -> PTP Warp Feed Adapter -> Tarantula Paintball Stovepip Adapter.

The QL 90deg elbow fittings in this arrangement each include a hose adapter.

The 'custom adapter' was comprised of the bottom portion of a tophat, some PVC pipe, JB Weld, a QL 90deg Ion Adapter (normally used to replace the feedneck on an ion) and some o-rings. I may actually have the assembly somewhere.

[Levi]

That's a good question for Levi. Do the ULE Warp bodies have fixed stovepipes or are they threaded? The Qloader 90 Elbows he's using require a flange on the stovepip to clamp around. If the ULE bodies stovepipe is removable, I don't think it would be much for Levi to make his own stovepipe with the necessary flange.

The ULE Warp bodies are Angel threaded just like the vert feed ULEs. I removed the factory "stovepipe" feedneck from my body and replaced it with the Ion threaded feedneck that AIC sells. This piece has the flange to attach to the low rise elbow.

The feedneck piece would be pretty simple to make, I've been thinking about making one just so I could make it shorter and get everything even tighter to the body.

The one thing standing in my way of doing that though, is the lathe I currently have access to has its leadscrew sitting in a box of parts on a shelf. (The leadscrew is essential for threading operations)

I may have to put this lathe back together or something.

[Dayspring]

You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

And we wouldn't want a rough surface for balls to rub against.

(It was too easy)

[Levi]

You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

Shh... don't tell my wife

Looking at the openings in the socket and pod, it really looks like they are intentionally oblong. The tab appears to be there on purpose as well. Its certainly possible that the tab was added to the mold as a way to "fix" feeding issues that surfaced after the molds were already made. Its a kinda hokey way to do this but would be a cheap fix if the molds were already done. The addition of the tab to an existing mold would have been a trivial amount of machining compared to making the whole thing over again. There is something about that tab that just screams "afterthought" to me.

Looking at how my adapter sits in the socket, I'm really not expecting trouble but time will tell.

[GoatBoy]

Looking at the openings in the socket and pod, it really looks like they are intentionally oblong. The tab appears to be there on purpose as well. Its certainly possible that the tab was added to the mold as a way to "fix" feeding issues that surfaced after the molds were already made. Its a kinda hokey way to do this but would be a cheap fix if the molds were already done. The addition of the tab to an existing mold would have been a trivial amount of machining compared to making the whole thing over again. There is something about that tab that just screams "afterthought" to me.

That was why I was thinking it was an error. That tab wasn't there in all my sockets from factory, so it might be a ham-handed afterthought later down the line.

The oblong opening I can totally understand; it's simply the result of the the difference of the feed path with another curved surface. I've inspected the design closely and reimplemented the upper drive system for another part I've been working on.

I understand the path of the paint out of the socket -- I just fail to see how canting the top hat would realistically impact feed performance. My earlier sockets without the tab fed just fine, as does the socket I've removed it from. In fact I've learned the hard way that the thing works 100% fine on the few occasions where I didn't rotate the hose retainer all the way and it popped off, releasing the entire pod in about 3 seconds. Mid-game. And I even de-tension my pods to make them softer on paint.

All that said, you guys are probably right -- they probably did do it on purpose. So another razor supercedes my previous one -- never attribute to poor craftsmanship what can be attributed to a poorly thought out design?