Results 1 to 30 of 33

Thread: EMAG still has pressure after removing air line - RESOLVED

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    EMAG still has pressure after removing air line - RESOLVED

    Hope you EMag wizards can help. I have a Automag classic body/rail with an old Emag valve. I just aired it up and it shot fine. Removed air and could not remove the valve because the On/Off pin was sticking out and the trigger had pressure. Pulling the trigger and pushing the bolt back did not relieve any pressure. I tool off the rail and used a screwdriver to push the pin in and slide the valve back and of course the On/Off assembly popped off. I found the on/off assembly and pin but no orings that go on top of the assembly. Please help me with these two questions:

    1) Why does the pressure remain in the valve after air is removed?
    2) What belongs on top of the on/off assembly? I tried a little white Oring (from a classic valve repar kit) that fit around the top of the pin and in the circle groove in the valve but the pin did not slide enough and was not shooting properly. I have heard some mention a quad oring. I could not find a diagram of the Emag valve... just the RT and it just looks like the little white O ring.


    Thank you very much in advance!
    Last edited by syxxty; 07-15-2013 at 08:37 AM.

  2. #2
    After thinking on it over night here are my thoughts:

    1) The X-Valve diagram (same as Emag valve right?) shows two o rings above the on/off assembly but AGD website only has one small one for sale. Thinking it is just one small o ring that sits in the groove and that it is slightly different than the one in the classic parts kit.
    2) I think it might be the level 10 bolt spring is too strong or the level 10 carrier is too tight causing the bolt to stick

    anyone want to confirm thought process? Thanks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    406
    1. Have to ask the obvious, are you running a check valve (usually coupled with remote lines)? Look at the link below. Make sure everything in the valve is clean, free of debris, and all orings are in good shape. You might just want to do a rebuild to be safe. A picture of your setup would help; we might see an accessory (e.g. on/off) that could be the culprit.
    2. http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...agexploded.pdf
    The link will show what parts you need. As you stated, there's a special quad oring at the top of an e-mag valve, but I don't think that is required in your setup.

    What is the length of the on/off pin and trigger rod? Is there a credit card thickness gap between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod when pressurized?

    Be careful. Wear eye protection at a minimum. Sounds dangerous disassembling a pressurized marker.


    -Nathan
    XT00380
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
    Posts
    4,857
    If the valve came directly out of an Emag, it will most likely have a Quatd o-ring as well as a .712 pin length. The shorter pin length could be making it difficult to push the pin back in especially if your trigger rod isn't adjusted out enough. It is not uncommon for the on/off pin to stick out after degassing the marker.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the reply Nathan.

    1. I do not have any check valve. I'll get pics tonight if needed. I did disassemble, clean, and oil the regulator seat, valve, power tube, and on/off (is there much more to take apart?). A rebuild would be a good idea.
    2. Yes... I already looked at the emag diagram and xmag diagram and am getting confused. Right now I think I need one single little white O ring above my on/off. Planning on calling AGD tech support when they open and get what I need ordered.

    I can get the caliper out and measure the pin/trigger rod tonight. It shoots fine with nice bounce at 950-1050 psi (or did until I lost my on/off o rings). I don't remember a gap between the trigger and pin but I'll double check. Do you think my level 10 shims or spring could be preventing the bolt from moving forward enough to vent? I would think would have found similar situation in my forum searches if that is the case (i seem to have read about every other lvl 10 issue).

    YES.. it scared the crap out of me when it poped out (i thought the pressure was minimal... it was not). I now wrap a towel around the back of the valve and slowly unscrew the pressure regulator. The pressure is released slowly for the most part. You still get a small pop but the towel easily catches everything.


    Thanks again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
    Posts
    4,857
    You dont really need to measure the trigger rod, just make sure it is sitting about a credit cards thickness from the back of the trigger. The on/off pin length will most likely be .712.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    406
    Read this thread for a good description of when the quad oring is needed, mech vs electro, pin length and oring combos, etc.

    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ght=Quad+oring

    Only other thing to clean and inspect is the reg valve pin assembly.

    Some of the old valves only had one oring at the top, so that may be the case with old emag valves as well. I remember many people wanted them milled out for two orings, so they could install a ULT.


    -Nathan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
    Posts
    4,857
    That thread^^ is more in regards to what to use in an Emag, not using an Emag valve in a mech Mag. And yes, Emag valves only use the one O-ring similiar to a Retro Valve. At least the Emag valve that I have does.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •