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Thread: Project Update

  1. #1
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    Project Update

    I posted a few weeks back about stalled projects and realized that laziness and apathy were the only things holding my project back. I decided to change that.

    Here is where I was a few weeks back:




    Parts for sleeper mod:



    Here is where I am as of today:



    Closeup of internals:



    With the panels on:



    What's been done. Body has been cut down, stripped and polished. Custom rail was made by Luke. Rail has a RTP style flat bottom and utilizes an RTP style sear, but also uses an AM style sear pin. Rail is shorter than standard to eliminate the Z lock pin since I'm using a capped valve. TI'm using an RTP VASA for a shorter front grip/reg setup. Valve has been capped using a cap by Deus Machina on MCB. Using an older AKA sidewinder regulator now to regulate the pressure. Seems to be pretty accurate so far. At least as much as a stock valve is. Chimera frame has been gutted and modded for a sleeper pneu setup. The hole that was on the chimera was too big to be tapped for 1/8 NPT so I made the hole larger and milled down a threaded brass coupler to use an insert. Its the brass piece in the second pic. I JB welded the brass piece and made sure there were no air gaps on the sides. I am using a really thick rubber O-ring between the CP on/off and the bottom of the frame. No leaks when I aired it up. I also JB Welded a mount for the MSV to the inside of the frame as well as milling down the inside of the frame a little so that the fitting on the LPR could be securely tightened. Panels are from Mike780. I love these.

    For the Pneumatics a typical MSV-2 was used as well as a MPA ram. The ram I had didnt have a delrin insert or anything so I just screwed a bolt into it. Seems to work until I can find a small peice of delrin. I have another pneu setup with a magnet mod. I like it, but wanted a different feel so I used a spring out of a pen to make a spring return. I tapped the mount so that you can increase the pressure on the trigger if you want by screwing the nut in or out increasing the pressure on the spring. I glued a pin on the back inside of the MSV lever to keep the spring from sliding around. The CP on/off was modded when I got it. Looks like a home job, but hey it works!

    Got to air it up for the first time today and it aired up first time with no leaks! Seriously that never happens to me! One of the reasons I get behind on projects is because something usually goes pear shaped and I end up throwing things and not coming back to it for a month or two. Anyways, it still needs some tweaking, but I like the way it feels and overall pretty happy with it. Future plans are for more adjusting, more polishing and possibly more milling to the frame. Need to figure out if its cheaper to have the frame milled the way I want it or to have another rail milled. It also desperately needs CCM fittings. I am considering getting this hydrographic'd. There is one pattern that looks like rains drops. I think it would look kind of cool. Might just leave it as is and worry less about it getting knicked up. I think I could really learn to like this thing!!

    And not sure it matters, but it weighs in at 2.6 lbs with the barrel shown. Not bad considering my Xvalved ULEd Mag with a CF barrel weighs in at 2.3lbs.
    Last edited by OPBN; 01-11-2013 at 04:28 PM.

  2. #2
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    lookin good
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  3. #3
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    Amazing.

  4. #4
    That thing is sick.

    I would shoot that.
    Last edited by AO Moderation Team; 01-12-2013 at 02:03 AM. Reason: NO SWEARING

  5. #5
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    are you going to make this finger print magnet polished?
    that would be sick if you took the time to do that.

    this turned out awsome man.
    keep em coming.

  6. #6
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    capped classic valves completely change the look of a mag in the most awesome of ways! I really like how that is coming together!

  7. #7
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    Compact and sexy..." LiL sexy "

  8. #8
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    I'm not 100% sure what I want to do finishi wise. Really leaning towards leaving it raw for and polishing it up. At least for the time being this will be the case until I totally decide if I want to do more shaping on the frame and/or rail. I had been holding off on polishing the valve since I didnt want to do it until I was sure it would all work. Didnt want to lower the value of the valve if I was just going to have to sell it off. I had planned on using an old X valve that I had laying around, but the guy that was/is making the caps went kind of squirrely for a little bit so I wasnt sure if I could count on him or not to make the cap for the X valve. Of course about 2 weeks after I sold the X, he finally contacts me and says he is back up and ready to make it.... Yep.

    Thanks for looking.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I'm not 100% sure what I want to do finishi wise. Really leaning towards leaving it raw for and polishing it up. At least for the time being this will be the case until I totally decide if I want to do more shaping on the frame and/or rail. I had been holding off on polishing the valve since I didnt want to do it until I was sure it would all work. Didnt want to lower the value of the valve if I was just going to have to sell it off. I had planned on using an old X valve that I had laying around, but the guy that was/is making the caps went kind of squirrely for a little bit so I wasnt sure if I could count on him or not to make the cap for the X valve. Of course about 2 weeks after I sold the X, he finally contacts me and says he is back up and ready to make it.... Yep.

    Thanks for looking.
    Oh hells yeah..glad tha bushing/reducer idea helped for the sleeper mod! looks great as is man...how do you like the difference between a return spring compared to the Magnet mod? Mikes grips are Sa WeeT!!! i sent him some extra StormWalk panels so he can offer more grip options

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    Oh hells yeah..glad tha bushing/reducer idea helped for the sleeper mod! looks great as is man...how do you like the difference between a return spring compared to the Magnet mod? Mikes grips are Sa WeeT!!! i sent him some extra StormWalk panels so he can offer more grip options
    I didnt use the reducer. It would have been a lot more work. The milled down coupler worked really well and I had already filed it down probably a year or so ago, but never got around to getting it "welded" into place.

    I havent really had much trigger time with either so hard to say on the preference on the magnet mod and spring mod. I do like the feel of the spring mod more, but not sure what it will feel iike in an actual game setting. I did notice that I was shortstroking when I got to higher ROF. Not sure if that is just me sucking at walking a pneu frame or some adjusting that needs to be done. I do feel more confident working on this one than I do my other since I did all the work. I also am not as scared of scratching it.

  11. #11
    capped valve?

    looks awesome! the rail goes well with the body!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    capped valve?

    looks awesome! the rail goes well with the body!
    The regulator is removed from the back of the valve and capped. The input to the valve is now controlled by the sidewinder reg.

  13. #13
    video please, really cool

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    video please, really cool
    Thank you. Eventually I will try to get a video. Hit a slight snag. The spring return really wasnt allowing me to walk the trigger very well. Trying to switch over to a magnet mod. Did had it set up over the weekend, but the magnet mount came off after airing it up and starting to fiddle with it. Going to try securing the magnet mount better.

    So far, single shots work well, but trying to walk it, getting a lot of chuffing. Definitely needs more work.

    Edit: Aired up today and started fiddling with it. Magnet mod was a little better, but trying to walk it results in a chuff fest. Bottom finger is good, but the top seems to just not have enought umph to get it done. I turned down the pressure in the LPR and adjusted the set screw, but just can't get there. Fanning it, two fingered, I am gold, but can't get there walking. Wondering if I need to take a look at my geometry to see if I need to adjust something. Thinking that I need to be hitting lower on the sear so that I can reduce the LPR pressure more? It definitely is not as light of a pull as I would expect. Intially thought the spring was making the pull harder, but seems to be in the LPR pressure. Not a lot of room for moving stuff around.....
    Last edited by OPBN; 02-11-2013 at 11:37 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Thank you. Eventually I will try to get a video. Hit a slight snag. The spring return really wasnt allowing me to walk the trigger very well. Trying to switch over to a magnet mod. Did had it set up over the weekend, but the magnet mount came off after airing it up and starting to fiddle with it. Going to try securing the magnet mount better.

    So far, single shots work well, but trying to walk it, getting a lot of chuffing. Definitely needs more work.

    Edit: Aired up today and started fiddling with it. Magnet mod was a little better, but trying to walk it results in a chuff fest. Bottom finger is good, but the top seems to just not have enought umph to get it done. I turned down the pressure in the LPR and adjusted the set screw, but just can't get there. Fanning it, two fingered, I am gold, but can't get there walking. Wondering if I need to take a look at my geometry to see if I need to adjust something. Thinking that I need to be hitting lower on the sear so that I can reduce the LPR pressure more? It definitely is not as light of a pull as I would expect. Intially thought the spring was making the pull harder, but seems to be in the LPR pressure. Not a lot of room for moving stuff around.....

    just have to keep practicing...maybe adjust the trigger stops?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    just have to keep practicing...maybe adjust the trigger stops?
    Pull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Pull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.
    can you post side by side pics of this frame and the frame Loguzzzz set up?

  18. #18
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    Kind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Kind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.
    ok

  20. #20
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    I'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.

    Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.

    Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.
    swap valves?

  22. #22
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    Yeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more?

    The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure.

    Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Yeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more? Not really. The set screw is barely holding on as it is. I don't see any binding. When its not aired up, the trigger is very light.

    The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure. I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower.

    Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot. Level 7 bolt. FPS is right around 280. Brand new shiny spring from a parts kit because the old one was pretty saggy.
    I will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?

    I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.

  24. #24
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    How much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?

    Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GEE TEE View Post
    How much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?

    Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight
    IIRC $25. Its really simple. Seems like something Renie could pop out in about 10 minutes. He was also making them for X valves, but took him too long to get them going. By the time he did I sold the X valve that I was going to use.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?

    I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.
    do you have a LPR tester to the output of the LPR? not sure if your LPR is working correctly if you say,

    "I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower."

    if you dont have a LPR tester do you have another LPR you can try??

  27. #27
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    Have a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Have a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.
    its worth a try to get your pneumag set up right to try either the Micro Rock or the Tickler from your other pneumag? might be a pain but at least you will know if thats the issue or if its something else...but it sounds like the LPR is wats giving you problems?

  29. #29
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    True. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.

    Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    True. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.

    Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.
    I received some springs to test in my ticklers, but I haven't gotten a chance to test them, yet. If they are in fact heavier springs that the stock ones, this may make ticklers more usable for pneumags. Hopefully, I'll get to test them soon. I'll let you know how they work out once I get to test them.

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