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Thread: Ever get to that point

  1. #1
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    Ever get to that point

    Where you are so sick of taking a marker apart and teching it that you just go "meh" and run it as is?

    I have one marker that I have literally taken apart probably 50+ times. It works, just not as pretty as I would like it and it would benefit from a good polishing, but I just can't bring myself to take the darn thing apart again. So it's going to possibly stay ugly for awhile.

    Or for another example, I have a regulator with a SS center section with tool marks on it that if it was disassembled I could easily sand/polish the marks out, but I just can't wrap my head around taking the stupid thing apart becuase it just sounds like a (female dog) to do. So the tool marks have sat there for about 1.5 years.

    Anyone else?
    Last edited by OPBN; 06-27-2013 at 03:21 PM.

  2. #2
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    i have one that I take apart and put back together to use various parts but it NEVER gets cleaned

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  3. #3
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    I have a project marker just like that sitting on my bench. I have since moved on to another project and stole some parts from it. Its been banished to the parts bin for being unreliable and a general P I T A.

  4. #4
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    E2 Autococker. I do a nearly complete tear down and lube every 6 - 12 months. I say nearly because I don't have the tool to unscrew the vertical ASA, plus I think it's red Loc-Tited. I also leave the ram alone and only partially tear apart the lpr. I completely clean the solenoid, which always scares the crap out of me, as does unplugging wiring harnesses. I haven't done a ton of research, but I assume these things are difficult to replace.

    -Nathan
    XT00380
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwik175 View Post
    Its been banished to the parts bin for being unreliable and a general P I T A.
    Dude, thats a whole nother animal. I have about 4-5 such creatures lurking around my office/mancave in various states of disrepair. I have a Spyder project that I'm pretty sure gets up in the middle of the night and pees in my Cheerios.
    Last edited by OPBN; 06-27-2013 at 03:59 PM.

  6. #6
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    I wish I still had my Spyder. I converted a Spyder SE to low pressure and electronic trigger frame. It was right when Halos came out, so that was the cheapest way for me to get to maximum bps.
    image.jpg
    I had a Palmer reg on there, but later moved it to my E2, and put the stock cocker reg on the Spyder.
    image.jpg
    Believe it or not, the Spyder with All American barrel and All Star paint was incredibly precise. I pulled off some of my best one shot eliminations ever with that rig.

    In the context of this thread though, the Spyder is the opposite. Extremely easy to tech. Almost as easy as my Mags.


    -Nathan

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nak81783 View Post
    In the context of this thread though, the Spyder is the opposite. Extremely easy to tech. Almost as easy as my Mags.
    One I have I can't get the FPS up. With a set of Madman springs and the softest valve spring, underboring, I can barely hit 280-290. Tried it with and without an in inline reg and just doesnt happen. And it is a bear to cock.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    One I have I can't get the FPS up. With a set of Madman springs and the softest valve spring, underboring, I can barely hit 280-290. Tried it with and without an in inline reg and just doesnt happen. And it is a bear to cock.
    What's your tank output? I assume you use it on other guns, so I doubt that's it.

    If I recall properly, they had slightly different hammers, bolts, and associated orings on some of the different models back then. If you built it from parts or bought it used, make sure they are the proper parts. Although, I don't know a source that says what diameter parts go in which model. I assume it should slide freely with no orings, and just have a slight drag with oiled rings. Since it is hard to cock, this may be your issue. Or perhaps it needs metric orings which may be slightly smaller cross section than standard, but that's a guess. I haven't ever had to look at metric ring charts.

    When the hammer and bolt are forward, does the input hole on the bolt line up with the valve? I assume there are some Spyder clone bolts that fit the bore, but may not otherwise line up right. Again, this assumes you built it from parts or bought it used.

    Finally, check parts and bores for burrs, scratches, etc. Polish as required. I had to do this once on mine to solve the same issue when I was running it stock. Took a nice dive into some crud one time. The crud got in the action, I kept playing, and everything got boogered up.


    -Nathan

  9. #9
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    the older spyders were made to shoot of CO2 or higher pressure than a 850psi tank...throw your SHP tank on and see how it shoots? or you can put a newer valve in it?

  10. #10
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    It's a clone. Everything is stock except I put a different frame on it. Swapped out the springs because with the ones in it wouldn't get over 240 or so. Tried it in multiple configurations including tank directly into the vert asa, both co2 and hpa. It laughs at me mockingly. Not a big deal honestly as its just tinker fodder but still irks me.

    Anyways.

  11. #11
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    Last thing. Then, I'll stop. I promise.

    There was a guy with a NIB clone that played at the outlaw field my friends and I ran in high school. Same thing. Couldn't get velocity. He asked me to take a look at it. It had an axially asymmetric valve installed upside down from the factory. In other words, the small hole that was supposed to accept the set screw that threaded in through the bottom of the body was leading to the bolt, restricting air flow. Flipped it over. Problem solved.


    -Nathan

  12. #12
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    Hey worth checking.

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