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Thread: One for the Pros to venture forth on. XMT Body not getting into the rhythm.

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    398
    I know the black marker didn't show much, but I'd still open up that slot width. The black marker (similar to dykem) is a machining tactic for knowing when you're making contact between cutter and work piece. If there's not enough abrasive action, it may not remove the black. That was just something to try, because if it did show wear, it would be obvious.

    In my opinion, altering a $13 part is cheap insurance to make that body (I'm assuming $100+) work.
    XT00380
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NW-Missouri
    Posts
    106

    It is shooting!!! With Video...

    It is shooting, used the Dremel and opened up the RT Bottom slot some, adjusted the depth of the throw on a sear by shaving some away from the back near the pin, sanded the bottom of the boss area where the frame screw threads in the front, the front frame screw (body) is 1/4 to an 1/8th a turn out and the thumb screw is over a half turn out, but it is shooting!!!


  3. #93
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    398
    Strong work!

    Just out of curiosity, can you describe the order of things you did and why you chose to do so?

    Do you plan to keep it as is, or request a fix or replacement?

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NW-Missouri
    Posts
    106
    So I started with the RT bottom and it was close to the bottom of the slot but still a little bit above, of course each time I adjusted something I would place it in a working MAG, to check. So I took to the RT bottom again and could get it to fire.

    When I held the AGD ULE And the XMT boss to boss against the bodies there was a bit of air in the AGD favor, strong on the XMT side but very little.

    As well I thought the sear may have needed some more clearance but I went back to my regular sear in the pneumag setup.

    I have it in a rhythm now, but the front screw is not tight and the thumb screw as well is better than half a turn out. I know when it will fire because I can hear the bolt set in, but once it does it goes pretty well. (Would you guys play this way?)

    Not sure XMT would honor a body that I purchased second hand or not. I certainly wouldn't hold it against him, or the person I bought it from. The classic valve worked superb. Who knew an RT On/Off would be this difficult?
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  5. #95
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    398
    My buddy just bought a marker from XMT. I went with to check it out, say hi, and see his shop. XMT said to get ahold of him if you're having issues.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NW-Missouri
    Posts
    106
    Once I get the LVL 10 tuned I believe it will be just fine.

    Took it out this weekend - everything tightened down, in my Pneumag rig and it was shooting over 300 - but it was the larger spring. The silver one

    When I used the Gold one it was much lower but not reseting quite right. Need4Reebs posted a little bit ago about a previous post and tuning Pneumags. I may try taking the silver sprung down a notch or two and see what happens.

    But I am perfectly happy with the body. I would of loved to see the shop.

    I will say this - as a added note for those keeping track - BE gave me a tip about lining the body where it touches the rail with a layer of masking tape. That was when I could tighten it all down and with the silver spring things were cycling fine (till I hit a chrono) our field has some ladies who like to play as well as younger children so our field limit is 285fps. When I start sending 315 over the chrono they tend to cringe

    Thanks for the heads up, Nathan. I really appreciate the help. Great support here on AO and BEO.

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